Initial Maintenance and Work

[Rednaxs60]

Have just purchased a new to me 2-14 Spyder RT LE with 9K Kms on the clock. Have had a few rides in the last 24 hours and have done some 250K Kms, solo and two-up. Coming from Goldwings. Ride is excellent, quality of finish is quite good, all round very enjoyable. Not much to do to this Spyder. Original owner put the beefier sway bar on, upgraded the handlebars to the tri axis handlebars, and I think a few other items. Only annoyance and I will find a work around for it, is the brake pedal is in the wrong spot for me.

Have looked into oil/filter change, HCM/transmission filter, fuel filter, and checking air cleaner. Will be doing over the next month. Have to schedule in between getting a V-Strom and Goldwing ready to sell. Plugs should be good.

Have ordered a set of passenger arm rests for the Mrs. Looking at a trailer hitch for my N-Line trailer as well.

Will be looking at replacing the front shocks and upgrading to the Elka stage 2 shocks for the RT. Looked at Baja Ron shock adjusters at $185.00 USD - $233.00 CDN pls shipping, taxes/duty. The Elka shocks are just shy of $1K CDN plus tax and shipping I would imagine - out of Boucherville Quebec. Looking at time, tooling and such, the Elka shocks are a better way ahead, and considering the Kms on this Spyder, do it now and enjoy the change. Keep the OEM shocks for a time when the Elka shocks may need to be rebuilt.

Not intimidated with removing the plastic, have owned - now sold, an '08 GL1800, have a '95 GL1500 and an '85 GL1200 Limited Edition Goldwing.

Will be browsing the forum for information on doing this maintenance/work.

Cheers

 

[pegasus1300]

Welcome to the forum and Congrats on the new to you RT. Post early,post often and post pictures.

 

[P.W.]

Sounds like you have things under control for the time being .....just remember that when/if you do need help there are a lot of people here waiting to help out.

Take care,
P.W.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: and :congrats: on your new purchase. :yes:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks. Wasn't going to take the leap for another 3-4 years when I hit 70 or so, but this Spyder was too good to pass up. If I had not taken it, my friend would have - something like going shopping for an item, look at a lot of places and end up back where you first looked and hopefully it is still there.

This will be a good year to get setup for Spyder work/maintenance as I do not expect our countries to open up that much. Did some more browsing on line and thinking the belt tensioner change would be good to do this year before too many Kms are on it ensuring trouble free motoring as we go forward.

Have been looking into the oil to use. The oil thread on here is similar to the Goldwing forums I'm on, lots of recommendations/opinions. I'm a fan of synthetic. Know about the JASO spec, and have read the owners manual - lots of things to get my head around regarding operation of these Spyders. Looking at using Amsoil or Liqui Moly - German product. Price point comes into play as well. Have had very good luck with the inexpensive synthetic oils in my 1200/1500 Goldwings that were manufactured before the JASO spec came out. I look for the API donut, the round symbol on the bottle that has the lower half blank, indicates there are no friction modifiers in the oil - disregard the oil spec in the top half of this API donut - for example only. The 1200/1500 engines are close tolerance engines so should be an easy mindset change to the Spyder engine.

Have used Amsoil before, know it is a good product. My son-in-law had a Honda CBR 600 a few years back, always operated hot in the city and rad fan was constantly cycling on/off. Convinced him to switch to Amsoil and he mentioned that after doing this, the rad fan rarely cycled. So it's down to a price point as I go forward. I do try different oils, if I like it I'll stay with it, if not will change - lots of choice out there. If there was one oil out there that made the "feel" of the engine operation to everyone's liking, there'd only be one oil made. Like buying oil in case lots to get the price lower.

Have what is called a Big Blue Lift. My retirement project on it is an '85 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition. Found a YouTube of a fellow who had his Spyder on this lift. Big Blue Lifts make a lift accessory for the Spyder. Spyder won't fit on my motorcycle lift that I know off without some good mods done. Here's a couple of YouTube links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNXpiJLixok https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIoQuzc5sn0

If you want to work underneath the Spyder, use this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMBeH-xSmow

Looking for a manual, have a lead from one of the forum members. Looking into the BUDS Software. Want to know what it is all about. Closest dealership is over an hour away.

Bleeding the brake system is also on the list - probably has never been done. Thinking Speed Bleeders are the way to go, have these on my 1200 Goldwing.

What I generally do is make a list of work/maintenance items that fit into a week, no longer than two weeks, do these, then ride, repeat as necessary.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Armrests coming for the Mrs. Have been looking for the OEM service manuals, need the 2013 Roadster Service manual and the 2014 RT supplement. Bit pricey new at $320.00 CDN taxes in for both. The 2014 Supplement is $135.00 CDN taxes in. Have found a used 2013 on eBay for $60.00 CDN delivered.

Going to bleed the brakes as well. Will order Speedbleeders, have these on my 1200. There is an extra step and that is to bleed the VCM/ABS (have to find out what this acronym means). You also need a software program B.U.D.S - BRP Utility and Diagnostic Software, to finish bleeding the brakes. Can be done without the software, but I've read it's not easy. More of an ouch to the pocketbook - software and 1 year license $900.00 CDN. I guess with a machine this complicated electronically, this is a good investment. Something like the new GWs, lots of electronics to consider. Found a 28 page document describing the software and what it can do for you. Reminds me of the supplement for my '85 Limited Edition.

Watched a video on bleeding the brakes on the Spyder with the software program hooked in. After the initial flush, he did a flush using the BUDS software. It is very specific in the order you do the flush, similar to flushing the brake system on an 1800 Goldwing. informs you when each step is successfully completed. The other advantage to using the software in that it activates the VCM/ABS unit during the procedure, something you cannot do when manually bleeding the system.

There is a pressure sensor on the brake system. After successfully completing the brake bleed manually and with the BUDS software, you do a pressure test of the system using the BUDS software. The pressure test is a pass/fail scenario.

The brake system flush can be done without the software, but there are a couple of steps that should be done and can only be done using the software. Thinking a brake system flush in the shop is not inexpensive and as such, doing one or two brake system flushes yourself using the software, would pay for the software.

Have looked into the BUDS software, and without going for a knockoff, the software from Powersports Diagnostics appears to be a complete package with no other pieces to buy to use. Can anyone confirm this? May have to ask the company the question. Here's the site link: https://www.powersports-diag.com/en...ense_type-all_dealer_dealer_technician_1_year

Had to put some gas in the Spyder. Uses high test - ouch, not used to buying the premium.

Finding out all sorts of good info regarding the maintenance on my Spyder.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

Welcome to SpyderLovers.....lots of knowledgeable people on here. I also have a ‘14 RTS SE6. With regards to fuel, most members are running 87 octane with NO ILL EFECTS. No loss of power nor mileage loss.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks for the info, will try a tankful.

Have been looking for a suitable oil for the Spyder. Read the Owner's Manual and the oil to be used: "Use the XPS 4-Stroke SYNTH BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API SL. SJ, SH, SG or higher classification."

Most of these API service types have been superseded by the API SN spec.

Have been using a EURO synthetic 5W40 in my Goldwings for the past several years that meets the OEM requirement mentioned in the Owner's Manual. The Honda GW engines are close tolerance, not only between the heads and pistons - break a timing belt and not a good end result, but also with the con rod and crank journal bearings such that these engines were almost completely balanced resulting in the historic smoothness. The oil I use in my GW engines works well, and no ill effects on the wet clutch, has to work in the Spyder engine. Euro formulation - engine made in Austria (?), excellent relationship.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Picked up a used 2013 Service Manual on eBay - $65.00 CDN delivered - good price. May have to get a new 2014 Supplement.

Found a new belt tensioner on eBay. Appears to be the upgraded tensioner with the larger roller and different mounting bracket.

Looking for the HCM/transmission filter.

Checked out the BUDS software diagnostic kit from Powersports Diagnostic. There are two promos for the month of April. An Easter promo discount of 10%, and a promo giving a two year license instead of a one year. Have sent company a message asking if both can be applied to a single purchase. This would bring the price down just under the $800.00 dollar mark. Seems like a good deal.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Mentioned the need for a trailer hitch and that the trailer I will be towing is an N-Line trailer. Web site: https://www.n-line.com/ great trailer for behind a 1500 Goldwing. Same width as the saddlebags so goes wherever the GW will fit.

The hitch assembly for the trailer is different from a standard ball. The connector is specific to this trailer. An adaptor would have to be made. I'm talking to the owner of N-Line trailers and he has one collecting dust. Here is a pic of the hitch with the N-Line trailer connector.
Will be talking to him next week and discuss cost, shipping and such. The N-Line trailer weighs in at 80 pounds and has a mentioned capacity of 100 pounds. Not a lot of weight by some standards. Thinking the carrying weight is because it is meant to be towed behind a motorcycle. Capacity will now probably be dictated by trailer volume - will discuss with the owner next week.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Continuing my procurement of what I think are essential to doing maintenance/work on my 2014 Spyder. I have purchase the B.U.D.S. kit from Powersports Diagnostics today. They had a sale on, 10% off on the sale price, and an Easter special of a two year instead of a one year license. Have browsed the various threads on B.U.D.S., and viewed several YouTube videos where maintenance was done and this software package was either used or highly recommended, brake bleeding being the most prevalent. My friend who accelerated my purchase of a Spyder has offered to go half in on the price and I might just let him. He's a trusting sole and will let me do maintenance/work on his Spyder if required instead of taking it to a dealer an hour away - closest one to Victoria. Also think it's a good purchase with these more technical marvels.

Have ordered the transmission filter, on back order until end April.

Thinking Elka shocks, the 2014 supplement (have a used copy of the 2013 service manual on the way) and a new updated belt tensioner will round out the what's needed category, then ride it and have fun. It'll start to get a lot more use than it had with the PO as I have sold my 1995 Honda Goldwing GL1500 that we used mostly for two up riding and touring - touring is probably on hold this year so we are planning for 2022.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Have done some further thinking on how to provide power to new items such as GPS, USB connections for front/rear, battery tender and the likes. Don't want to get into a lot of wiring and relays. I'm a fan of not using the existing OEM wiring for this if at all possible. In this regard intend to install an accessory fuse block - the Fuzeblock FZ-1: . This is a very compact unit with an integral 30 amp relay, and combined power and ground bus - all in one unit. Have used the Eastern Beaver PC8, and inexpensive fuse blocks from Amazon powered through an external relay, but for this application, I think this is the way to go - should tuck in the "frunk" quite nicely. Another item I have been using for wiring is the expandable wire sleeve - comes in all sorts of colours and such, and does great job of making a nice, neat install
- had the bike apart to do an engine rebuild and complete paint job. I've attached two pictures of my '85 Honda GW Limited Edition wiring that I cleaned up - before and after picture. I use OEM style connectors instead of the solderless crimp connectors, and/or splice wires together and solder.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Getting a fair bit of road time on the Spyder, the Mrs likes riding it as well and suggests riding days. Almost 1000 Kms in less than 2 weeks, the previous owners put just over 9K on in 7 years. I guess I like riding more.

Received the Show Chrome passenger arm rests yesterday, installed. First order of business to keep the MRS on side.

BUDS software is on the way. Should be here this week. Need to order Speedbleeders, have these on my '85 Honda Goldwing.

Looked into the ECU upgrade from Monster that has been mentioned on this forum. Talked to the owner at Monster in Ontario. He answered all my questions. Discussed the follow on after an ECU is upgraded. He recommends going directly to Stage 2 unless budget is and noise level is a consideration. He also mentioned that the Stage 2 tune is very good for two up riding, towing trailer, and hilly terrain such as the mountains in BC. He seems to be knowledgeable about the clutch aspect of the 1330 in that it doesn't fully hook up below 3000 RPM, better towards the top end of the 3000 RPM range. Mentioned it is hard on the clutch to shift under 3000 RPM. Not the same but similar to my '85 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition in that the 1200 Honda engine relies on RPM for it's performance (7500 RPM redline) unlike the larger 1500/1800 models (5500 RPM redline) that have a lot of low end torque. There is no need to change out the stock exhaust unless you are heavy into performance. Cost to us north of the border is Stage 1 - $400.00 CDN, Stage 2 - $500.00 CDN. He is getting quite the network in Canada - has affiliates from the east coast into Alberta. Probably working on one for BC. Asked how the upgrade is done and he mentioned that the ECU is connected to a diagnostic machine, it does its magic for lack of a better explanation. The ECU is not taken apart. Asked about shipping and the owner is responsible for shipping to/from.

Discussed the issue of an ECU upgrade with the local dealer here on the island. He is aware that this is happening but did not know any specifics. He did mention that these engines are severely detuned to meet the various countries regulations, and that there is a lot of potential to be unlocked.

This appears to be a fall/winter project.

Have an issue with the brake pedal on the Spyder 2014 RT LE with the stock seat, it's more an annoyance than anything else. I'm 6'2" and the placement is less than optimal. Was looking at pedal extensions and such, but when I was at the dealer yesterday there was a similar 2014 with the comfort seat. This allows me to sit two inches back and the brake pedal placement is much better. I mentioned that with the stock seat, I sit on the Spyder like I would on the Skidoo REV platform, but with the comfort seat, it is a more traditional seating with the legs more forward. Will be taking a ride up there with the Mrs to make sure the seat is a good fit.

Lots to consider, research and look at with these machines. Just have to prioritize the requirements.

 

[BertRemington]

Does Monster Stage 2 extend clutch life?

Ernest -- thanks for the information on shift point affecting clutch life. I bought my 2014 RT-S with 77K by the first owner. I was worried about oil pressure so replaced RH gauge with GlowShift (which uses 3-wire 5V pressure sensor). Using XPS 5W40 I see 58psi when cold which is the engine relief pressure so the gauge is accurate. Hot pressure above 3500rpm is 50psi and hot idle is 14psi, which is satisfactory for this type of engine. I ride with rpm above 3500 but not so much with shifting. Now I know to shift higher. Thanks.

Did you ask Monster if Stage 2 changes the hydraulic pressures and therefore perhaps the shift points or clutch life? I intend to replace the HCM filter with every 5K oil change but if Stage 2 will increase clutch life it's worth $500 to me.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Ernest -- thanks for the information on shift point affecting clutch life. I bought my 2014 RT-S with 77K by the first owner. I was worried about oil pressure so replaced RH gauge with GlowShift (which uses 3-wire 5V pressure sensor). Using XPS 5W40 I see 58psi when cold which is the engine relief pressure so the gauge is accurate. Hot pressure above 3500rpm is 50psi and hot idle is 14psi, which is satisfactory for this type of engine. I ride with rpm above 3500 but not so much with shifting. Now I know to shift higher. Thanks.

Did you ask Monster if Stage 2 changes the hydraulic pressures and therefore perhaps the shift points or clutch life? I intend to replace the HCM filter with every 5K oil change but if Stage 2 will increase clutch life it's worth $500 to me.

Bert - Will be talking to him with regards to your question. Information I would want to know as well. The cost for Stage 2 is $500.00 CDN, little less for yourself. I would not replace the HCM filter every oil change. I liken this to your car, and how often do you change the transmission oil. The HCM filter is $158.00 CDN at my dealer, so I will be looking at every 2/3 years. Have to look at the maintenance interval in the owner's manual.

You changed out the engine temp gauge with an oil pressure gauge. Did the system automatically default to having the engine temp on the LED screen? I have read that the same happens if you remove the fuel gauge - the fuel level defaults to the LED screen.

Nice to know your oil pressure readings. The Mrs's brother is looking at Spyders, likes the one I have. Have found one at the local dealer and the price is quite attractive. It has 85K Kms (approximately 52K miles) on the clock. Will relay the numbers to him. Thinking these engines should be good for at least 150K miles before any major overhaul, caveat is that the engine is well taken care of.

Picture of the oil pressure gauge would be nice.

I have made my decision regarding the oil I will use - it will be a full synthetic 5W40 with no friction or energy conservation additives. Never get into this type of discussion since it's very personal, something like a car tire on a Goldwing. Most times I'm changing the oil/filter between 5K to 8K Kms on my bikes. I have gone to 9K Kms on my 1995 1500 Goldwing - just sold, with 182K Kms on the clock, used 1/2 quart of oil on the trip.

Have just ordered the RT mount for my Big Blue Lift. The Canadian distributor told me that the Big Blue Lift and Spyder mounts have been selling very well this past year. he informed me that this mount also works on the 2018 F3 Limited as well. My riding friend will be pleased, won't have to take it to the dealer for oils and such.

Cheers

 

[EdMat]

He also mentioned that the Stage 2 tune is very good for two up riding, towing trailer, and hilly terrain such as the mountains in BC. He seems to be knowledgeable about the clutch aspect of the 1330 in that it doesn't fully hook up below 3000 RPM, better towards the top end of the 3000 RPM range. Mentioned it is hard on the clutch to shift under 3000 RPM.

I think the clutch waiting to 3,000 + RPM's was on the earlier 998 engine, not the 1330. The 1330 is hydraulic and locks quickly.

 

[Rednaxs60]

New to this engine and the way it works. Will find out what makes it tick. I do notice that the engine operation is similar to my '85 Goldwing engine that responds better to shifting and operation above 2900 RPM or so - needs to be at this RPM to get into the power band. Have got used to shifting in this range and above so I'm not adverse to doing the same on the Spyder. My Spyder shifts well between 3500 and 4000 RPM.

 

[BertRemington]

Ernest -- here's my gauge post https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-622-trailer&p=1562238&viewfull=1#post1562238

I sent a Contact Us message to Monster asking about Stage 1 and extending clutch life. If Stage 2 is the answer that's where I will go. I always use Premium in the Spyder and MG so octane isn't an issue.

As I said the first owner put about 77K miles of highway driving with trailer on the RT-S. The second owner seemed to "flip" it for personal reasons (he seemed to have a lot of toy vehicles) so very few miles. The coolant looked good when I changed it. But the oil was black although it flowed well and there weren't any sparkles in the drain pan (the magnetic gear drain plug had a few whiskers but nothing serious). I changed the spark plugs and they were a lovely brown.

So where did the black come from? After 1K miles the oil shows no signs of darkening. That plus plugs plus coolant points me to clutch friction material. I've studied clutch plate replacement which looks easier that my MG but still it's something I'd rather avoid. So a $100 HCM when doing a $100 oil change is a fairly minor thing to me if I don't have to change clutch plates.

As far as working on the RT-S it's not too bad. I took my 1989 Mustang open tracking and afterwards if I only spent 5 days working on it for every day on the track I was happy. And I bought the RT-S because I was getting too old to commute an hour to a friend's workshop, spend 6 hours working on his SCTA roadster (I'm the electronics guy), and commute home safely on my MG. So the RT-S is my solution and it's working. So I spend a few hours removing and replacing bodywork fasteners. I enjoy examining another engineer's work product and I think Bombardier did a nice job with this "2nd-Gen" Spyder.

How far have I delved into my RT-S? Try finding any Torx fasteners. Now they're all flanged button-head hex socket, most with a washer to protect the plastic from torque forces.

Besides clutch life, my other concern is suspension/steering. New "car" tires improved things from "evil" to "concerning" so there's a ways to go. I made my Mustang work at the track so I think I can make the RT-S work on the freeway. PMK and others are providing excellent insight and suggestions. I'm looking for boring comfort, not fun performance which is why I kept the MG.

Anyway keep posting about the Monster and other upgrades.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks. These forums are a wealth of information.

Been perusing the forums and querying the web for more insight into the ECU tuning. Comments have always been favourable, but chatting with the company is the way to go. Think I have my friend who is responsible for my Spyder purchase, hadn't planned on going with a Spyder just yet - however, it's a deal I could not refuse, almost convinced/talked into an ECU tune as well.

Have an '85 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition, the 10th anniversary fuel injected model. Have started a project to do an ECU replacement. Very interesting so far and lots to consider. There are aftermarket units, Megasquirt is common. There is the Speeduino project as well that I have settled on. Uses Arduino components. C-19 put this on hold as I took on some larger projects to keep busy. Have most of the parts/pieces for the project including the Tuner Studio Software. The reason I am doing this project is that there is no tuning of the OEM ECU, and if the ECU fails, the bike becomes a boat anchor. The main issue is finding all the specs for the various components in the CFI system. It's a good primer for understanding the Spyder ECU and what goes into an ECU flash.

What type of oil was used in your Spyder? This could tell the tale of why the oil colour was what it was.

Working on my RT LE will continually remind me of my 1500 and 1800 Goldwings - lots of plastic to remove to get at anything. My 1800 took 3 to 4 hours just to change an air filter - engineers buried it.

The tires on my Spyder are original and in good condition, no cracking along the sides as one might expect. These work well at this time so no intention to change. The suspension is always an interesting topic when it comes to one's "toys". Suspension is the first item on my agenda to upgrade when I get a new to me bike. Only components on the bike that keep the tires firmly planted on the road, and enhances the ride and safety of the bike. I understand why it's not done very often because of cost. Have the beefier sway bar, but will be changing out the shocks to Elka stage 2 shocks. Better to do this type of upgrade sooner than later so I will get to enjoy the ride longer. I mention to my friends that anytime you go into a tire/suspension shop there are posters detailing tire issues and why these happen. If you correct the issue, you won't be back for a while, if not, pay me now or pay me later. There's no quick fix to a lot of the issue with a bike, always need to get to the root of the problem.

I'm similar in what I want out of this machine. A good ride, comfortable touring machine. I notice that there is a slight hesitation on start, but once rolling works well. I'm thinking the ECU tune will be good for us who ride in the lower spectrum.

Heading up Island today to the dealer to look at a comfort seat. Was there on Tuesday and sat on a similar 2014 machine with one installed. Better foot placement for brake use. Have to make sure the Mrs has enough room as it sits the rider 2" further back, should be okay.

Have added the Magic Mirror kit to the needed install list.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Had a good ride up island yesterday and the testing of the comfort seat went well. Will be getting one.

The B.U.D.S. software kit came today. Think everything that is needed is there.

Have to check the front brake discs for out of round. Get that pulsing when coming to a stop. This is not speed dependent, does this whether braking easy or hard. The pads can also be an issue. These are 7 years old, and don't last forever, even with low Kms on the Spyder. Will be looking at the calipers as well because these have to float. If the calipers have not been serviced it is possible that the caliper is not moving as it should. Have found that here on Vancouver Island, a caliper service every two years is a good maintenance interval, it is with my '85 Goldwing.