I have been doing some thinking yet again and the fitment of the splines are critical for lack of wear. Once the coating is beat up enough on the pulley, it gets down to the material and that allows rust from moisture, which makes it worse. Now, two thoughts about using Loc-tite is that it will fill in around any areas that are not as tight as they should be. What are you going to do if it needs removed? It will take heat to remove it. Where the shaft comes through the transmission there is a rubber seal and that heat could damage that. The other factor is that if the sprocket failed with it coated it would strip that away as it did so. That would still leave it on the shaft and I'm not sure how easy it would be to clean the grooves for a replacement. Also, using moly seems to defeat the concept of fixed spline system. I agree that if the spline moved in and out in it's operation, it would be critical to be properly lubed. However, it does not. Once it is put in place it is there with no side movement.
I then got to thinking about the method on the rear sprocket of using rubber bumpers to absorb the torque that eliminates any excessive wear on the drive line at that end. Ideally, they need to make a mini one of those for the front sprocket. It would absorb the shifting "clunk" and solve the spline failure problem.
What I'm thinking is that by painting the splines of the pulley with RTV, then sealing the back and then the front on install with RTV also would give it some absorption of what is wearing it. The RTV would fill in any gaps, harden up and do basically the same job as what the rubber bumpers do in the rear. At the very least it will coat the splines on the pulley and help to keep them from loosing their protective coating. And a moisture barrier is going to help. Removal and cleaning would be simplified also, as the RTV doesn't require a lot to be removed.
Think I'm going to try that on the Daytona. I'll shoot a video when I do.
Thank you Doc! I always like your ideas about things.
My thoughts were the same about using the 660 Loctite. The technical sheet stated 250 Celsius to disassemble parts after using the 660. Trouble is, 250 Celsius equals
482 degrees Fahrenheit which as you stated would destroy the shaft seal.
I did very much appreciate EETHER54 comments about using the 660 as well as sharing his thoughts and experience in dealing with this sprocket situation.
I also very much appreciate your thoughts along with everyone else's that has contributed to this thread.
We have now presented several ways to hopefully improve this sprocket situation but until we actually test out the different methods to see how they work out over time and miles we are still left with a puzzle to solve.
As for me personally, I still favor the M-77 Moly treatment with the additional step that you added of sealing it off on both ends using the RTV.
I hear what you're saying about the sliding movement on the shaft drive motorcycles compared to the fixed position of the sprocket on the F3's but there is still the hammering effect on the splines to deal with and the moly stopped the wear on the splines on the bikes I personally used it on.
When I as well as many others had to replace chewed up splines we did so with used parts that were far from fitting as tight as they did when new. The moly stopped the wear completely whereas the parts were failing in less than 20,000 miles without it.
And anytime I mention moly I am specifically talking about the M-77 as other moly products were tried and failed in time.
Thanks to all for your input and info, much appreciated!!!