EdMat
Well-known member
But, it still uses the battery to listen for the phone...
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What did you do to your Spyder today?
- Thread starter Mazo EMS2
- Start date
Albec
Well-known member
Not according to Fobo. They state that the transmitters broadcast continuously. 24/7. According to them, this is why you can have your Spyder in the garage, not moving or not having moved for a while, and pull up the ap and see your tire pressures and temps.
FOBO TPMS sensors transmit continuously to monitor tire pressure and temperature 24/7, even when the vehicle is off, as long as you are within Bluetooth range. The system is designed to detect leaks and alert you to potential problems before they become serious.
troop
Well-known member
That's why when I remove them off the wheels for winter storage, I also remove the batteries..
Albec
Well-known member
That's what I was thinking of doing with my new Fobo's. Installing them to make sure they work properly, then removing the batteries for storage.
Rdrnr
Active member
I replaced the rear tire. Easy. A 2x4 and a block to break the beads, a couple of spoons, and a cut up laundry soap jug to protect the wheel. It comes right off. A 170 mile road test and a *** mph tire balance test (I used beads). All good. It was a brisk 42 degree day. 
I put that new Kenda tire on, the one that’s “supposed“ to last longer. Perhaps a different choice next time. 
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I put that new Kenda tire on, the one that’s “supposed“ to last longer. Perhaps a different choice next time. - 
jzeiler
Active member
I stand corrected on FOBO, I misinterpreted their statement about usage shortening battery life, i.e. running the app all the time. After reading the manual again I see I was wrong. But I did get almost a year of battery life before they started to show the low battery alert. So I can live with yearly replacement of batteries.
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
Got the Smurf suit out and went for a ride along both sides of the Potomac yesterday.
Shifter acted up again, on the way back after taking off from a light it would not go above 3rd gear; when I stopped at a stop sign limping home, it down shifted to 1st and would not shift back up after that.
I kept jiggling the paddle shifter and it finally let me upshift again until I arrived home.
Not going back out until I replace the Left Hand Multifunction switch. I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago and could not duplicate the problem until yesterday.
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Shifter acted up again, on the way back after taking off from a light it would not go above 3rd gear; when I stopped at a stop sign limping home, it down shifted to 1st and would not shift back up after that.
I kept jiggling the paddle shifter and it finally let me upshift again until I arrived home.
Not going back out until I replace the Left Hand Multifunction switch. I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago and could not duplicate the problem until yesterday.
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The little rubber nub for the upshift button might have worn down too much. Sometimes cleaning and lubricating it helps, and it might also be possible to add some sort of shim. It's not too difficult to take apart - you've just gotta watch for loose balls and possibly springs.
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Got my wheel off yesterday, not as bad as imagined, now waiting for tyre delivery. Fitting a Vredestein 205/60/15I replaced the rear tire. Easy. A 2x4 and a block to break the beads, a couple of spoons, and a cut up laundry soap jug to protect the wheel. It comes right off. A 170 mile road test and a *** mph tire balance test (I used beads). All good. It was a brisk 42 degree day.
View attachment 252543 - View attachment 252544
Rdrnr
Active member
Did you take off the caliper? I’m gonna try next time without taking it off. Seems to me you could wiggle it out…
Make sure you video it! LOL
jcthorne
Well-known member
Caliper must come off to remove the wheel from the bike. Rotor can stay put on the wheel when changing the tire with the correct equipment.
Yes I took the caliper off.I haven't done it before and was following instructions so cut no corners .
Doing that truly isn't worth the bother &/or effort - it's WAAAAYYYY harder to get your wheel out without removing the caliper than it is just to remove a couple of bolts, pull the caliper off the disc, and hang it out of the way, even if you do take the time to put something between the pads to stop them inadvertently being closed by an unnecessary brake application while your wheel is off.
But I s'pose, if you want an extended lesson in frustration, and you have some way of suspending your Spyder high enough (or want to remove enough of the rear mudguard etc) to do it without removing the caliper, then it's your prerogative... It's not something most who know would ever chose to put themselves thru, but then again, if you're into pain & frustration...
Just Sayin'!!
Aviator19xx
New member
What did you finally do with the Ultimate seat? Return it for a refund? If you still have it, I may be interested in it.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
After fixing all the dealer screwups and finally getting it to shift, I went looking for some coolant to replace that new coolant the shop put in. They had put in BRP orange, so I went looking for that at Rocky Mountain ATV and MC. They are not too far from me, over in Payson Ut. They told me that Can Am will let them sell it, but only by mail order, so that was a waste of time. I'll go to Big Pine Sports in Fairview tomorrow and get some. They are a little more expensive, but with RM's freight, it will end up about the same. So nice to have it shifting properly again. Now to add the coolant, put the body work back on, and go for a little ride.
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
I took it apart today and didn't see any wear on the membranes and looked at the ribbon cables for the crimp that has been shown from other people on the forum and didn't find anything. The only thing I noticed as I stated before the shaft for the paddles was loose and I was able to eliminate the play by tightening the screw from the bottom of the shaft after cleaning and lubing with 3 in 1 dry lube.
While I had the paddles off, I also noticed that the balls were sticking, so I hit them with the lube too, then replaced everything. My neighbors probably think I'm crazy as I was just going back in forth in the driveway for about 10 minutes and tapping on the handlebar to see if I could make it fail.
I may push it tomorrow, stay local, and test it out on the road to see if it happens anymore. With the way it has failed on me intermittently, I have lost faith in the switch and will still replace it, as I go to a lot of remote places in the mountains that are out of range for a cell phone signal, so the $500 to replace the switch is cheap when compared to the cost of attempting to get a tow back home or to a dealer from the mountains and still having to make the repair.
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