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What did you do to your Spyder today?
- Thread starter Mazo EMS2
- Start date
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
I took the pair of Helmet Lidlocks off the F3S.
I got a new helmet, and I like everything about it except it has the micro-ratchet chin strap instead of the Double D's, so the Lidlocks won't fit. I'll be putting them up for sale soon.
New helmet is the LS2 Advant X Modular.
I also went to the Cam Am dealer this morning and picked up a quart of pre-mix coolant. I noticed the Spyder's reservoir was below the cold mark. Also found an extremely small coolant leak around a hose clamp that was hand tight. Pays to use a flashlight when checking under the bodywork. I routinely check and tighten all nuts and bolts.
I got a new helmet, and I like everything about it except it has the micro-ratchet chin strap instead of the Double D's, so the Lidlocks won't fit. I'll be putting them up for sale soon.
New helmet is the LS2 Advant X Modular.
I also went to the Cam Am dealer this morning and picked up a quart of pre-mix coolant. I noticed the Spyder's reservoir was below the cold mark. Also found an extremely small coolant leak around a hose clamp that was hand tight. Pays to use a flashlight when checking under the bodywork. I routinely check and tighten all nuts and bolts.
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troop
Well-known member
My Lidlox came with a T strap that works on micro ratchet chin straps. Contact Lidlox.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
Seriously? I never knew. Thanks, I'll look into that.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
I guess I should have tried using the T- bar 1st. It works. Thx Troop.
Poppie65
Active member
Good looking cover for your grape!
I really like the shaded visor.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
Thank you.
I spent a ton of research on helmets. Finally found this one, and it's pretty neat. The chin bar goes 180° back and locks in place. Plus the way it's designed it's also aerodynamic in the rear position. It's rated for safety in either the the closed or open positions.
I wore it around the house yesterday for 2 hours, and it was very comfortable with no hot spots. The drop down inner shield (dark) in its fully down position does bottom out on my rather large (Norse) nose lol, but it can be positioned to clear the rather large protrusion.
I wore it around again today after leaving it in the cold (30°) garage overnight, and it still fits even cold, so I guess I got the right size.
Going to ride over to BajaRon's on Friday with a fellow spyderlover.com inmate. That should give me a good idea of how it works.
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troop
Well-known member
LS2 makes really nice helmets for the $$. I have both the Advant and Drifter. I put a amber drop down visor in my Advant. Amber is nice for when riding at night/cloudy weather/rain. Heck, I'm always wearing sunglasses anyways
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
It's a disease, the modding, that is
jzeiler
Member
UPDATED to correct my errors.
Not so much that I did something to my Spyder today, but rather I learned something about how Can Am engineers design things. I recently bought my 2024 RTL and was preparing to set it up for hauling my Bushtec Turbo 2 (I have owned it for 16 years and put 60,000 miles on it behind a BMW K1200LT).
I bought the BRP hitch and harness kit and I am very impressed with the physical hardware compared to the aftermarket units. Not so with the supplied harnesses from BRP. The 2024 model RT had some changes in power wiring at the rear tail light connectors that the original BRP hitch harness used to power the trailer module. So their fix was to tap into that line up under the passenger seat from a pin on the CIC after harness connector. Their tap line is only an 20 gage wire, yet this circuit is protected by a 40 amp fuse in the right fuse box.
UPDATE - I have since discovered that the 40 amp fuse was a top level fuse protecting two circuits, Trailer Module and Amplifier. The Trailer module is further protected by a 10 amp fuse and that is correct protection for a 20 gage wire. My applogies to the Can Am Engineers and the users of this web site for missinformation.
Also this power line is hot even with the key off, which means if you install the BRP hitch and harness it is ALWAYS powered up. Very unusual to do that as it is a static 5 milliampere load (not sure what the rest of the bike has for a static load) . Just be aware if you have this hitch and harness installed.
I am currently working up my own harness using a Bushtec isolator and will be tapping into the special adapters supplied with the AfterBurner tail light kit to get my tail, brake and turn signals lines to feed my isolator. I will also run a dedicated, fused appropriately, and 16 gage, 12 volt supply line back to the isolator to power it and provide current to the Bushtec as I have an onboard compressor in the trailer for the air suspension.
I will do a full write up with pics and post it here when I am done in case someone else needs to power a Bushtec trailer with a Spyder.
Not so much that I did something to my Spyder today, but rather I learned something about how Can Am engineers design things. I recently bought my 2024 RTL and was preparing to set it up for hauling my Bushtec Turbo 2 (I have owned it for 16 years and put 60,000 miles on it behind a BMW K1200LT).
I bought the BRP hitch and harness kit and I am very impressed with the physical hardware compared to the aftermarket units. Not so with the supplied harnesses from BRP. The 2024 model RT had some changes in power wiring at the rear tail light connectors that the original BRP hitch harness used to power the trailer module. So their fix was to tap into that line up under the passenger seat from a pin on the CIC after harness connector. Their tap line is only an 20 gage wire, yet this circuit is protected by a 40 amp fuse in the right fuse box.
UPDATE - I have since discovered that the 40 amp fuse was a top level fuse protecting two circuits, Trailer Module and Amplifier. The Trailer module is further protected by a 10 amp fuse and that is correct protection for a 20 gage wire. My applogies to the Can Am Engineers and the users of this web site for missinformation.
Also this power line is hot even with the key off, which means if you install the BRP hitch and harness it is ALWAYS powered up. Very unusual to do that as it is a static 5 milliampere load (not sure what the rest of the bike has for a static load) . Just be aware if you have this hitch and harness installed.
I am currently working up my own harness using a Bushtec isolator and will be tapping into the special adapters supplied with the AfterBurner tail light kit to get my tail, brake and turn signals lines to feed my isolator. I will also run a dedicated, fused appropriately, and 16 gage, 12 volt supply line back to the isolator to power it and provide current to the Bushtec as I have an onboard compressor in the trailer for the air suspension.
I will do a full write up with pics and post it here when I am done in case someone else needs to power a Bushtec trailer with a Spyder.
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Dasmoetorhead
Active member
Took a short ride to see how the new helmet feels before a ride to BajaRon's tomorrow. It worked good. Still have to get used to where the inner shield lever is, but got up to 70mph and it's a keeper. It's quiet but I can still hear the wind. Much better than the Hjc i90 modular I had, and it's really light.
The helmet came with a Clear shield, Dark shield, and pinlock insert. I installed the pinlock. That should eliminate any fogging in the cooler wx.
The helmet came with a Clear shield, Dark shield, and pinlock insert. I installed the pinlock. That should eliminate any fogging in the cooler wx.
Poppie65
Active member
I'm definitely interested in seeing how it looks when you're done. Thank you.
Triple B
Member
Being in my 80’s, I’m not as nimble as I once was. I rely on my dealer for maintenance work. The RTS was in the shop for the annual oil change, and while there, it was discovered that my brakes were operating steel on steel, so I had that repaired as well. Got the bike back home and then discovered that they had “topped up” my tire pressures, soooo gotta recalibrate to 18# all around. Presently, my fronts are at 20 and the rear as at 28. Fronts are Vredestein and Rear is General Altimax. Oh well, at least I know that they are checking the unit over.
Poppie65
Active member
I picked this up last month and just moved the tools into it that I had rolled up in a towel in the frunk. This rolled up small enough to fit into the saddle bag along with the rain gear and half cover.
That saddlebag is stuffed, but closes with a small assist.
That saddlebag is stuffed, but closes with a small assist.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Going to have to add resistors. They flash slow to begin with and then speed up.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
The link you provided says they have built in resistors no?
Do those LED's have running lights also?
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