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Results of Amsoil 10W-40 lab test @ 4000 Mi

ulflyer

Active member
To my surprise the viscosity came back it the low 30w range with a caution from the lab to change oil and filter soonest.

With BRP claiming 9000 miles between oil changes I expected much better results.

This was the second oil change done just before departing for Spyderfest. I've done lots of lab tests on previous '11 Can Am where it too tested about the same. In other words, at 4000 miles the oil is due for an immediate change.

I plan on trying a Motul Blend next to see if the viscosity holds up any better.
 
Have you tested

To my surprise the viscosity came back it the low 30w range with a caution from the lab to change oil and filter soonest.

With BRP claiming 9000 miles between oil changes I expected much better results.

This was the second oil change done just before departing for Spyderfest. I've done lots of lab tests on previous '11 Can Am where it too tested about the same. In other words, at 4000 miles the oil is due for an immediate change.

I plan on trying a Motul Blend next to see if the viscosity holds up any better.

BRP's blend and full synthetic? I am interested in that. Thks
 
If you recall

To my surprise the viscosity came back it the low 30w range with a caution from the lab to change oil and filter soonest.

With BRP claiming 9000 miles between oil changes I expected much better results.

This was the second oil change done just before departing for Spyderfest. I've done lots of lab tests on previous '11 Can Am where it too tested about the same. In other words, at 4000 miles the oil is due for an immediate change.

I plan on trying a Motul Blend next to see if the viscosity holds up any better.

4K.....Wow...not good!

Under normal riding conditions?
More town(shifting) than open road(etc)?
Normal ambient temps or?

Just curious.
Jer
 
I am surprised from those results.

Did someone with prior to 2014 model did a lab test on Amsoil?


I did several tests when I had the "11 RT Se with similar results.
Just expected better with the "14 based on BRP's suggested 9000 mi change.
 
4K.....Wow...not good!

Under normal riding conditions?
More town(shifting) than open road(etc)?
Normal ambient temps or?

Just curious.
Jer

Mostly open road, lot of interstate/open road, moderate temps, very little town riding.
 
Amsoil claims

When I talked with Amsoil they told me I can double the 4,700 miles on my oil and filters, so I assumed the oil can last 9,000+ miles. I am not sure if someone from Amsoil see those emails.
 
BRP's blend and full synthetic? I am interested in that. Thks

Changed my mind at last minute and ordered full syn Motul 7100. Its a highly rated motorcycle oil and I've been wanting to give it a try. Will also test it at 4K, but that will be well into summer temps when I ride a lot less.
 
I asked the question awhile back if people were going to do the 9k OCI's and everyone said yes.....
Sorry, but that is way to long IMHO. I don't even run that long in my cars and they run lower rpms and don't have the oil serving double duty with the clutch..just sayin'....

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
 
Interesting..!!

good to know. Although I have an RS and change oil right about 4,000 anyway would be an interesting study on the different brands. We do get a lot of questions on what to use....:thumbup: Thanks..!! :2thumbs:
 
Changed my mind at last minute and ordered full syn Motul 7100. Its a highly rated motorcycle oil and I've been wanting to give it a try. Will also test it at 4K, but that will be well into summer temps when I ride a lot less.

Looking at the Motul it appears to be rated SM, correct me if I am wrong but is this not discouraged for the clutches?
Could the oil be changed every 4.5k with filters every 9k?
 
results

wouldn't those results indicate a heavier/thicker viscosity is called for? used to think the 5/30 or even the 10/40 recommendation was just another way for manufacturers to get planned obsolescence in new vehicles till I saw enough cars running that light weight oil in hotter climates and getting lots of trouble free miles..still amazes me it doesn't evaporate in the heat we run them at with catalysts and ethanol...caught my dealer having put 20/50 in mine when i'd always been real careful to run 10/40 amsoil, they swore up and down it wouldn't create a problem...that's when I did my first oil change myself...still think i'll use a quart of 20/50 to 3 of the 10/40 just to use it up during the summer season. But i wonder what effect it would have on the clutches...
 
I am not an expert on motorcycle oils but I remember when 10W40 was recommended for cars and it was found to be detrimental. The auto manufacturers started recommending against using 10W40 oil.
 
SM ? ? ?

Looking at the Motul it appears to be rated SM, correct me if I am wrong but is this not discouraged for the clutches?
Could the oil be changed every 4.5k with filters every 9k?

I checked a site selling it and the classification was JASO MA is this what you thought meant " SM " ??????......mikeguyver :thumbup:
 
I checked a site selling it and the classification was JASO MA is this what you thought meant " SM " ??????......mikeguyver :thumbup:
When I did a search this is what I pulled up, notice under performance - standards. http://www.motul.com/system/product...8/original/7100_4T_10W-40_(GB).pdf?1362492545

After looking at the owners manual i could NOT find anything that warned against the SM rating. This i all the 2014 manual states.
Engine Oil
Recommended Engine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine,gearbox, clutch, and the Hydraulic Con-trol Module (HCM) on the SE6 model.
Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH.BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (min-imum) or synthetic motorcycle oilmeeting the requirements for API ser-vice SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classifi-cation. Always check the API servicelabel on the oil container.
[COLOR=rgb(100.000000%, 100.000000%, 100.000000%)]NOTICE [/COLOR]Do not add any oil addi-tives to the recommended oil. Thismay lead to gearbox and clutch mal-functions.
 
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wouldn't those results indicate a heavier/thicker viscosity is called for? used to think the 5/30 or even the 10/40 recommendation was just another way for manufacturers to get planned obsolescence in new vehicles till I saw enough cars running that light weight oil in hotter climates and getting lots of trouble free miles..still amazes me it doesn't evaporate in the heat we run them at with catalysts and ethanol...caught my dealer having put 20/50 in mine when i'd always been real careful to run 10/40 amsoil, they swore up and down it wouldn't create a problem...that's when I did my first oil change myself...still think i'll use a quart of 20/50 to 3 of the 10/40 just to use it up during the summer season. But i wonder what effect it would have on the clutches...


No, those results show the oil being used is not holding up in the engine. It is shearing and wearing out. A better quality oil of the correct weight is called for. Not a heavier weight of the same poor quality.

The warning against SM rated oils does not apply to the 2014s as they do not have the centrifugal clutch. Still as they DO have a wet clutch system, a JASO MA-2 rated oil would be preferred.

I use the Valvoline full synthetic 10w10 motorcycle oil rated JASO MA-2 in mine and Louise Spyders but have not sent off 5k mile oil samples for analysis yet. I can say that the BRP XPS synthetic blend DID NOT hold up for 4600 miles specified on my 2013. It had sheared to a MUCH lighter weight by 3000 miles. That was the last of the XPS my bike will see.
 
Looking at the Motul it appears to be rated SM, correct me if I am wrong but is this not discouraged for the clutches?
Could the oil be changed every 4.5k with filters every 9k?

NO, its been reformulated to API SN, Jaso Ma2. However, a lot of sellers still have stock that is SM, MA. I made sure I ordered from a site that said thiers was the new stuff.
 
No, those results show the oil being used is not holding up in the engine. It is shearing and wearing out. A better quality oil of the correct weight is called for. Not a heavier weight of the same poor quality.

The warning against SM rated oils does not apply to the 2014s as they do not have the centrifugal clutch. Still as they DO have a wet clutch system, a JASO MA-2 rated oil would be preferred.

I use the Valvoline full synthetic 10w10 motorcycle oil rated JASO MA-2 in mine and Louise Spyders but have not sent off 5k mile oil samples for analysis yet. I can say that the BRP XPS synthetic blend DID NOT hold up for 4600 miles specified on my 2013. It had sheared to a MUCH lighter weight by 3000 miles. That was the last of the XPS my bike will see.

You might want to do a test at 3000. I tried a variety of oils in my "11 and Valvoline held up almost, but not quite, as good as Amsoil. Castrol was definitely the worse. I never tried Mobil 1 as it used to be only MA rated....not sure what it is now.
 
IMHO the key really is just more frequent changes vs what brand name is on the bottle.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
 
IMHO the key really is just more frequent changes vs what brand name is on the bottle.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

I agree with you about frequency. The point about brands is that some are clearly better than others in terms of how well they hold viscosity.

How often do you change yours?
 
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