Results of Amsoil 10W-40 lab test @ 4000 Mi

[sddinnh]

WHEN IS AN OIL TOO THIN? The labs say when it shears down significantly from its higher weight...in our case 40W. But look at most cars now using 0W-20! Surely BRP knows oil shears rapidly...this is nothing new in the bike world; almost all that share oil with gearbox/clutch experience this. Yet BRP says it ok to use their BLEND for 9000 miles? I can about guarantee you that by that time its 10W or so. BRP, is that fine with you?

That's a good question. But, I think I'll stick to 3-4000 miles changes until I get more definitive information, either from BRP or another dependable source. Look at it this way, It can't hurt anything and at worst I'm replacing oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

 

[ulflyer]

That's a good question. But, I think I'll stick to 3-4000 miles changes until I get more definitive information, either from BRP or another dependable source. Look at it this way, It can't hurt anything and at worst I'm replacing oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

I agree. You can use about any cycle oil and be saft at 3K. I enjoy trying and testing various formulas and if I can find something that will give me 4K I'd be happy. Otherwise, I'll go 3K also.

 

[Ramjet]

The shear strength of many synthetic is rather high again I would like to see that oil tested and see the results of different labs before I would be convinced. Of course I am not saying you should spend the money I just am making conversation so to speak.

Plus the synthetics have a much lower pour point to begin with so I really am suspect of those labs results and the analysis from this lab.

That said I would not go 9000 miles I like the 4k-4.5k change intervals. Even with Amzoil.

The he more I think about it the more I am questioning this Lab and the results.....

 

[jerpinoy]

If you change your oil often than the recommended intervals then you are giving your hard earn money to the oil companies and not helping the environment. JMHO.

 

[ulflyer]

The shear strength of many synthetic is rather high again I would like to see that oil tested and see the results of different labs before I would be convinced. Of course I am not saying you should spend the money I just am making conversation so to speak.

Plus the synthetics have a much lower pour point to begin with so I really am suspect of those labs results and the analysis from this lab.

That said I would not go 9000 miles I like the 4k-4.5k change intervals. Even with Amzoil.

The he more I think about it the more I am questioning this Lab and the results.....

Only way to know is to send of two samples at same time, one to a diff lab. I'd be glad to do that if someone will foot the bill for a Blackstone test...about $25.Someone on BITOG forum did that with auto oil and the results were the same.

I would think since NAPA, WIX, and I think O'Reilly, use this lab (ALS) it must be suitable. I did use Blackstone for the first test on my '11 and it also came back showing severe shearing. Thats when I began tested nearly every oil change and got interested in trying diff oils mostly out of curiosity.

From tests others have done on BITOG on a variety of bikes and a variety of oil, I haven't seen any 10-40, and no 5-40 exceed 4000 other than in some bikes that do not share oil with gear/clutch. Usually the major shearing is by 2000 mi.

20-50 and 20-40 seems to hold up very well in other bikes but BRP doesn't sanction use of this. I did test the use of a quart of 20-50 along with 10-40 in my '11 one summer and that helped considerably. Two quarts was even better.

 

[jcthorne]

This is one of the reasons I installed the oil pressure gauge that so many told me was a waste of money. The low viscosity over milage shows up in low idle oil pressures. My last drain of BRP XPS was down to 9psi at hot idle. Fresh oil and its near 30 again. Running the Valvoline synthetic MC oil this time and will keep an eye on the gauge and send it off for testing.

 

[Tango]

If you change your oil often than the recommended intervals then you are giving your hard earn money to the oil companies and not helping the environment. JMHO.

I agree with this. :thumbup: The Gold Wing calls for oil and filter every 8,000 miles. Or one year. And that's using Dino oil! Most riders here would fall under the one year change interval. Those under the Mason/Dixon line probably put more miles on. I usually change my oil and filter every fall to have fresh oil circulate before parking for the winter. :thumbup: Have been doing this with my cycles for 35 years. Never had an engine problem. opcorn: Tom :trike:

 

[ulflyer]

I agree with this. :thumbup: The Gold Wing calls for oil and filter every 8,000 miles. Or one year. And that's using Dino oil! Most riders here would fall under the one year change interval. Those under the Mason/Dixon line probably put more miles on. I usually change my oil and filter every fall to have fresh oil circulate before parking for the winter. :thumbup: Have been doing this with my cycles for 35 years. Never had an engine problem. opcorn: Tom :trike:

I don't believe The GW has a shared sump does it? They are one of the few machines that exceed the numbers I've been posting. Another one is the BMW.

 

[sddinnh]

Older BMW 1200's used a dry clutch and separate gear oil (which I maintain is a different animal), the latest water cooled ones have moved to a wet clutch and common oil for both the engine and the transmission. They were only introduced last year, so the results are still out on those.

 

[ulflyer]

This is one of the reasons I installed the oil pressure gauge that so many told me was a waste of money. The low viscosity over milage shows up in low idle oil pressures. My last drain of BRP XPS was down to 9psi at hot idle. Fresh oil and its near 30 again. Running the Valvoline synthetic MC oil this time and will keep an eye on the gauge and send it off for testing.

JT, this is new to me and really interesting. Never knew about the viscosity/oil pressure relationship. What kind of
miles do you get on the oil before the pressure drops? Did you notice the pressure starting to drop earlier, that it, for some time before you changed the oil?

 

[Tango]

I don't believe The GW has a shared sump does it? They are one of the few machines that exceed the numbers I've been posting. Another one is the BMW.

Gold Wing uses only one oil for both. And the clutch fouls easily if you use a friction modified oil. :thumbup: Tom :trike:

 

[Ramjet]

The labs you are using are mainly labs that deal with Automobile Oils the oil that you use in a cycle is a different animal in that most cars are not running wet clutches like a MC does. I still am very skeptical of the results you are getting.

To to the post talking about the environment well let's get one thing straight I recycle oil so that is of not concern of mine if it was that important we would all be riding bicycles.:doorag:

 

[Jeriatric]

If we can beleive what we read.....it should do the job.....@ a great price too.

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDO...iple_Protection_15W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone. nojoke

:doorag:

I ran Shell T6 in my Yamaha Tour Deluxe and Mobile 1 V Twin in my Ultra. Have not had any issue with either. I will run the T6 in my RTS 1330 and do the changes every 4500.

 

[ulflyer]

Read for yourself.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDO...iple_Protection_15W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS.pdf

$18.00 a gallon @ our local Auto Zone. nojoke

:doorag:

About $13 at Walmart (for a gal compared to $13 qt for Motul 7100)! I'll let you know how the Rotellaa tests out shortly after I hit the 2500 mile mark with it! Thats what I put in mine yesterday. BTW, this oil has been a favorite of many bikers for some years now and I believe theres several Spyder owners using it but don't publicize it Early on a couple owners said it caused their clutch to slip and this kept me from using it in my '11, but I'm giving it a try in the '14.

I have Motul 7100, with it claims of wonderfulness, in the garage for the next change after the Rotella.

 

[ulflyer]

The labs you are using are mainly labs that deal with Automobile Oils the oil that you use in a cycle is a different animal in that most cars are not running wet clutches like a MC does. I still am very skeptical of the results you are getting. Quote

I've read hundreds of UAO motorcycle reports on BITOG forum , some from reputable cycle racers and others with a lot of mechanical knowledge, and never read anything that suggested the labs were not competent to test motorcyle oils. Indeed, unless you tell them they don't know, or care, what type machine the test oil came from.

Nevertheless, I respect your views and would encourage others with differing views to chime in. That's a good way to learn.

BTW, if you know of a lab that specializes in motorcyle oil tests I'd be glad to give it a try.

 

[Jeriatric]

About $13 at Walmart (for a gal compared to $13 qt for Motul 7100)! I'll let you know how the Rotellaa tests out shortly after I hit the 2500 mile mark with it! Thats what I put in mine yesterday. BTW, this oil has been a favorite of many bikers for some years now and I believe theres several Spyder owners using it but don't publicize it Early on a couple owners said it caused their clutch to slip and this kept me from using it in my '11, but I'm giving it a try in the '14.

I have Motul 7100, with it claims of wonderfulness, in the garage for the next change after the Rotella.

IMO....the temps that these engines have to operate at add to viscosity loss. Then, start running one in constant high ambient temps and it gets worse.

When we took our trip up north, much of the time my spyder was running 3 to 4 bars(hardly HOT). As soon as we got to Thousand Oaks(inland) on highway 101. The spyder went to 5 bars and that's where it stayed. If memory serves me, we were registering 113 degrees in the desert.

While 5/10w 40 may work in Canada.....some of us actually ride where it gets hot and STAYS HOT. Again, jm2c.

Look forward to hearing about your test results. If, you DO NOT notice any operational differences. It would be great if you could hold out on the test, until you match the mileage of your previous 'A' oil test. Just a thought.

 

[ulflyer]

IMO....the temps that these engines have to operate at add to viscosity loss. Then, start running one in constant high ambient temps and it gets worse.

When we took our trip up north, much of the time my spyder was running 3 to 4 bars(hardly HOT). As soon as we got to Thousand Oaks(inland) on highway 101. The spyder went to 5 bars and that's where it stayed. If memory serves me, we were registering 113 degrees in the desert.

While 5/10w 40 may work in Canada.....some of us actually ride where it gets hot and STAYS HOT. Again, jm2c.

Look forward to hearing about your test results. If, you DO NOT notice any operational differences. It would be great if you could hold out on the test, until you match the mileage of your previous 'A' oil test. Just a thought.

I might push it to 3000 but frankly I expect it to be sheared to point of needing change by then. Perhaps I'll be surprised and if so, it may become my oil of choice. At the price, I don't mind changing it every 3000.

Its going to be awhile before I reach those miles as I don't have any trips planned and with hot WX at my doorstep I'll be riding less.

 

[jcthorne]

JT, this is new to me and really interesting. Never knew about the viscosity/oil pressure relationship. What kind of
miles do you get on the oil before the pressure drops? Did you notice the pressure starting to drop earlier, that it, for some time before you changed the oil?

The hot idle oil pressure was pretty steady up until about 2600 miles and then started dropping. By 3000 it was down to 9psi. This is with the BRP XPS installed at the dealer. I am on Valvoline synthetic now and the pressure is back up and the valve train is much quiter. Will have to watch and see how this oil fill goes as I put miles on the bike.

I had previously seen this behavior in my GT500 some years back when Motorcraft synthetic changed suppliers/blends and prompted a change to Rotella. I would like to use Rotella in the Sypder but not sure on the wet clutch. It worked very well in our Harley with a wet clutch though.

 

[ulflyer]

The hot idle oil pressure was pretty steady up until about 2600 miles and then started dropping. By 3000 it was down to 9psi. This is with the BRP XPS installed at the dealer. I am on Valvoline synthetic now and the pressure is back up and the valve train is much quiter. Will have to watch and see how this oil fill goes as I put miles on the bike.

I had previously seen this behavior in my GT500 some years back when Motorcraft synthetic changed suppliers/blends and prompted a change to Rotella. I would like to use Rotella in the Sypder but not sure on the wet clutch. It worked very well in our Harley with a wet clutch though.

Thanks JT for the info. Your info about the pressure dropping fairly rapidly from 2600 on correlates with tests I have done and with a multitude of tests done on BITOG. Basically, all 10-40 oil starts shearing rapidly from about 2000 on in a shared sump engine.

For those interested in reading about tests others have done: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums you'll see a thread there similar to this one with comments from non-Can Am owners. I go by "TC1446".

You've got me interested in pressure gauge so I'm going to look up your previous threads about installation to see if its anything I can do, or have done. I'd really like to have it on my 1330 as I expect to have this machine a long time and want to give it quality care.

 

[garb55]

Shell makes 3 different Rotella T oils
Rotella T 15w-40 is dino. oil and is for diesel engines [$12.98 a gal. Walmart]
Rotella T5 10w-30 is a blend [$16.00 a gal. Walmart]
Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic [$21.00 a gal. Walmart]
I ran T6 in my 2008 GS SM5 for 6 years [36000 miles] with no problems
I am now running T6 in my 1330 [changed oil at 3000 miles break in service now have total of 6000 miles on bike]
I installed an oil pressure gauge before oil change and at idle when engine is at running temp. the oil pressure is 9 to 11 psi
with both oils even when oil is new
BRP I believe states in service manual that above 5psi is ok [I think that is correct]
The oil pressure switch is set really low
At 3000 rpm I am running at a little above 40psi
All gauges vary a little so this is my check point for my gauge [Digital pro sport gauge]
Don