2014 Semi-automatic and oil

[BajaRon]

Don't have my notes in front of me, but it seems that Lamont
put out a notice that the SE-6 amount of oil should be reduced to something like 5 1/4 quarts with filter change. Last time,
I put in 5 quarts, took it for a run, then topped off just a tiny bit. Haven't added any since and it has about 3500 miles on it.

Don't doubt it's good information. But then why does the SE6 BRP oil change kit come with 7 quarts?

 

[ulflyer]

Don't doubt it's good information. But then why does the SE6 BRP oil change kit come with 7 quarts?

Ron, same folks who say you can run it 9000 btwn changes.

Heres the thread saying about 5 quarts. See post 13 from Lamont:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?71531-Less-oil-recommended&highlight=change+amount

 

[BajaRon]

Ron, same folks who say you can run it 9000 btwn changes.

Heres the thread saying about 5 quarts. See post 13 from Lamont:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?71531-Less-oil-recommended&highlight=change+amount

Point well taken. I know there are some who think engineers are perfect. But if that were true, we'd still be building our homes out of mud and sticks...

 

[trikermutha]

I recommend Amsoil because that is what I use and I've had it tested. I'm not saying Amsoil is the best. But I think the factual data shows it to be at least one of the best, and definitely superior to BRP's offerings. The biggest negative I get about Amsoil are people who do not like the way it is marketed. But that is not a ding on the product in any way.

The Amsoil you already have is perfect for the 1330 ACE motor. I'd say you are in good shape for an oil change as long as you have enough. The SM6 takes 5+ quarts so you will need 6 quarts for a change. The SE6 needs 6+ quarts so you'll need 7 quarts if you have the automatic trans version.

I now carry the HiFlo filter, O-Rings and Washer set for the 1330 ACE motor for $12.95 delivered.

Us Oil debaters make oil seem more complicated than it needs to be. Lubrication is a complicated subject. But if you stay within the BRP requirements and get a good, 100% Synthetic oil. You're headed in the right direction.

I was looking at the Amsoil and was undecided ..So the recommended Amsoil 10w40 is good to run on the new 1330 rotax engines?? I always liked Amsoil and been using there oil for a while now..

 

[Dragonrider]

Everyone laughed when I used full Synthetic in my Ram's Cummins diesel - but the second owner now has 504,000 miles on the truck, and compression is still in new spec... Then, I'm also a pilot - you never use anything but full synthetic in an aircraft - why? because you can't pull to the side of the road, if there's a problem.. I wouldn't consider using non-synthetic, after break-in.

 

[WEB-WVR]

I recommend Amsoil because that is what I use and I've had it tested. I'm not saying Amsoil is the best. But I think the factual data shows it to be at least one of the best, and definitely superior to BRP's offerings. The biggest negative I get about Amsoil are people who do not like the way it is marketed. But that is not a ding on the product in any way.

The Amsoil you already have is perfect for the 1330 ACE motor. I'd say you are in good shape for an oil change as long as you have enough. The SM6 takes 5+ quarts so you will need 6 quarts for a change. The SE6 needs 6+ quarts so you'll need 7 quarts if you have the automatic trans version.

I now carry the HiFlo filter, O-Rings and Washer set for the 1330 ACE motor for $12.95 delivered.

Us Oil debaters make oil seem more complicated than it needs to be. Lubrication is a complicated subject. But if you stay within the BRP requirements and get a good, 100% Synthetic oil. You're headed in the right direction.

Ron, I have a 2014 ST-limited, the V-twin. Auto Transmission. I want to switch to Amsoil, is the 10-40 OK for this engine and transmission ? Thanks ! :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

Amsoil recommends the 10W40 oil on the 1330 SE6

 

[Doc - Riverside]

......................NO NO NO .........Only the 1330 clutch / trans will be able to use this OIL ...............This clutch is different from the 990/998 series engines/trans .......................Mike :thumbup:

The only difference between the 998 clutch and the ACE 1330 is the 998 is a centrifugal engagement and the ACE 1330 is hydraulically operated. The same oil spec -- API - SL, SJ. SH and SG is used by all model Spyder's.

 

[BajaRon]

The only difference between the 998 clutch and the ACE 1330 is the 998 is a centrifugal engagement and the ACE 1330 is hydraulically operated. The same oil spec -- API - SL, SJ. SH and SG is used by all model Spyder's. A wet clutch is a wet clutch.

Well, not really. There can be big differences between one wet clutch and the next. It depends a great deal on the friction material and to a lesser degree on the metal used in the clutch plates. BRP obviously changed the clutch material in the 1330 because it is not nearly as sensitive to friction modifiers as the 998 is. Put a friction modified oil in your 998 and you'll be spinning your clutch plates and not too happy about the cost of a clutch rebuild. :yikes:

 

[BajaRon]

Ron, I have a 2014 ST-limited, the V-twin. Auto Transmission. I want to switch to Amsoil, is the 10-40 OK for this engine and transmission ? Thanks ! :thumbup:

The same Motorcycle, wet clutch specific 10w-40 Amsoil is the recommended lubricant for all Spyders. The only real difference in oil specs between the 998 and the 1330 is that the 1330 clutch can tolerate oils with friction modifiers added.

Think about it this way. Does BRP recommend a different BRP oil for the 1330? No. BRP recommends the same BRP product for both engines. And so does Amsoil.

 

[Doc - Riverside]

Well, not really. There can be big differences between one wet clutch and the next. It depends a great deal on the friction material and to a lesser degree on the metal used in the clutch plates. BRP obviously changed the clutch material in the 1330 because it is not nearly as sensitive to friction modifiers as the 998 is. Put a friction modified oil in your 998 and you'll be spinning your clutch plates and not too happy about the cost of a clutch rebuild. :yikes:

Ron what I was trying to point out as you did about the BRP oil Spec has not changed for any of the Spyder Models from 2008 to present as bluenight 911 stated. The only difference between the 998 SE5 transmission and the 1330 SE6 transmission is how the clutch engages and disengaged engine power to the rear wheel. The SE5 is dependent upon engine RPM to engage ( centrifugal force) where as the SE6 is basically the same as the SM6 in operation. Hydraulics operates the clutch to engage or disengage in both the SE6 and SM6. The TCM controls the hydraulics to the clutch. The nice thing about this new design is that the clutch is it is engaged (locked up) independent of engine RPM as long as you are moving. The SE5 requires you to pay attention to the RPM to ensure the clutch stays 100% engaged

 

[BajaRon]

Ron what I was trying to point out as you did about the BRP oil Spec has not changed for any of the Spyder Models from 2008 to present as bluenight 911 stated. The only difference between the 998 SE5 transmission and the 1330 SE6 transmission is how the clutch engages and disengaged engine power to the rear wheel. The SE5 is dependent upon engine RPM to engage ( centrifugal force) where as the SE6 is basically the same as the SM6 in operation. Hydraulics operates the clutch to engage or disengage in both the SE6 and SM6. The TCM controls the hydraulics to the clutch. The nice thing about this new design is that the clutch is it is engaged (locked up) independent of engine RPM as long as you are moving. The SE5 requires you to pay attention to the RPM to ensure the clutch stays 100% engaged

True. The engagement process for the SE6 has been changed (For the better without a doubt). But as far as I know, the engagement process for the manual (SM6) has not changed. This would mean that BRP has also changed the friction plate materials as the manual suffered the same sensitivity to slippage as the SE version. Just speculation on my part as it is possible that the engagement pressure has been increased on the SM6 or some other method has been used to prevent slippage.

 

[Spyderups]

I don't think the BRP oil is 100% synthetic....petroleum base additives....Amsoil is 100% synthetic...use it in everything..duramax..allison...axles...4 wheeler...in old 12 rts se5...lawn mower....and after break in my 15 rtsse6 1330,10 - 40.Change the oil once a year on everything....I used Mobil 1 till I found out its not full synthetic. $20.00 dollars a year makes you a preferred customer.If it matters,cheaper to use in the long run.10,000 miles is no problem....and I'm old school.

 

[jaherbst]

I don't think the BRP oil is 100% synthetic....petroleum base additives....Amsoil is 100% synthetic...use it in everything..duramax..allison...axles...4 wheeler...in old 12 rts se5...lawn mower....and after break in my 15 rtsse6 1330,10 - 40.Change the oil once a year on everything....I used Mobil 1 till I found out its not full synthetic. $20.00 dollars a year makes you a preferred customer.If it matters,cheaper to use in the long run.10,000 miles is no problem....and I'm old school.

BRP oil is a blend but who knows what the ratio is. (There I have done it. Never thought I WOULD EVER POST ON A BORING OIL THREAD!):bdh:

Jack

 

[bluep]

oil filters

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

 

[trikermutha]

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

Send him a PM..

 

[Pampurrs]

Here's another stupid oil question

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change? :dontknow:

Thanks,

Pam

 

[trikermutha]

I would use up the BRP oil first then go full Amsoil I used the BRP stuff for 2 oil changes then switched to Amsoil last week..

 

[JayBros]

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change? :dontknow:

Thanks,

Pam

The BRP blend oil has a seal atop the spout that, if unbroken, should be acceptable for return to the dealer. Suggest you give it a try. I also would not sully the synthetic oil by mixing it with the blend although it can be done with no problem.

 

[BajaRon]

BajaRon
How does one go about ordering filters from you? Do you carry the trans filter for the 1330 Se6?
How big a job is it to change the 1330 trans filter? Is it assessable from the RT side like the motor filter
Thanks

You can either PM me here or email me at [email protected] I usually get back with emails quicker than PM's. But either one works.

I do carry the 1330 ACE transmission filter for $94.00 delivered. The manual does say you need BUDS to do this change. But from speaking to those who have done it, this is not true. No one that I've talked to who has done this filter change has used BUDS and they all went smoothly. Not giving advice here. Just telling you about the feedback I've gotten so far.

I have not personally done a 1330 trans filter change so I am not the one to give advise on this.

Sorry to (sort of) hijack this thread but I have a somewhat related question...

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I'm convinced that full synthetic is the way to go. Unfortunately, I have already purchased 5 quarts of BRP (blended) oil from the dealer. Since I already have this oil and probably can't return it, would there be any harm in putting three quarts of Amsoil full synthetic and two quarts of the BRP blended oil in on my next oil change? :dontknow:

Thanks,

Pam

I agree with Trikermutha. Just use the BRP oil and switch to Amsoil (or whatever) at the next oil change. Personally, I would not go over 4,000 miles on the BRP blended. But that's nothing more than my opinion based on oil analysis testings done on that oil in the Spyder.