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Results of Amsoil 10W-40 lab test @ 4000 Mi

jcthorne said:
That data sheet is not for Rotella T6 Synthetic. That is for the regular Rotella T, sometimes called T5. The T6 runs about $21 a gallon at WalMart or Sams. A bit more at the autoparts stores and truck stops. Oh, and the T6 is a 5W-40.
Click to expand...

Right you are.
 
Try a different Lab

You might try Oil Analyzers Inc. They are recommended by Amsoil. I have not tested oil in my Spyder but I have on every other vehicle I have owned over the years and the test results have always supported Amsoil's claims. Would be interested to compare to Blackstone's.
 
Bad Dog6 said:
You might try Oil Analyzers Inc. They are recommended by Amsoil. I have not tested oil in my Spyder but I have on every other vehicle I have owned over the years and the test results have always supported Amsoil's claims. Would be interested to compare to Blackstone's.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. In case anyone wants to know about the Lab I've been using, here is their web site. I use the lab in Atlanta:

http://www.l-a-b.com/lab/als-labora...n-dba-als-tribology-aka-als-staveley-services
 
I love oil threads... but sometimes I just sit back and watch. Especially when my experience differs from others.

I can only go with what I've done and it's not to discredit what ulflyer has posted. We simply have had different experiences with oil testing and I have no explanation for this. I assume that all testing facilities use the same methods so results should not vary that much as long as all other parameters are the same.

Motorcycle oil is an automotive lubricant and will not make any difference in the test results. This is certainly not a factor in the differences in testing outcomes.

I've had my 10w-40 Amsoil tested several times. I've had a few with slight fuel dilution and that, I'm sure, is a function of too rich a setting on my Juice Box. The JB is not extremely adjustable through the power band like the PC unit. But I digress.

In my worst test so far, with 6,400 hard, hot miles on the oil, I ended up with a 13.3 cST viscosity rating. As you can see in the conversion chart below, that's not too bad. Especially with the 1.7% (though slight) fuel contamination which will lower the viscosity index.

As you can see in this conversion chart, each SAE viscosity rating has a range within the cST index (Left side of the chart).

I have also tested BRP oil for another person with about 5.5k on it. That test came back pretty ugly with a lot of RED - Warning! Danger Will Robinson! notations. If you're going to run extended mileage with anything but a high quality, Type IV true synthetic oil in your Spyder I would highly recommend having it tested. And, as ulflyer points out, it doesn't hurt to have your Amsoil, or whatever true synthetic oil you choose tested as well.

I use Oil Analyzers, Inc. but I'm not saying they are any better or worse than another testing service. They are a certified facility so I believe their results can be trusted.

Just to see what would happen I sent a sample of Amsoil but said it was Castrol. The results came back similar to previous Amsoil tests but with this statement; 'We acknowledge the FLUID INFORMATION (manufacturer and/or product name) was provided, however we were not able to validate it within our database or from the fluid manufacturer.'

In other words, they were saying that my sample was NOT a Castrol product of any kind. It means they were paying attention and I thought that was significant.

I hope this information helps someone make an informed decision on what I consider to be an important aspect of ownership... Lubrication! :ohyea:

CSTtoVisOil_zpsecd1c63e.jpg
 
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PMK said:
This topic is getting pretty heavy, almost to a BITOG level.

Can I ask, BajaRon, which BRP oil was tested, the full synthetic or the blended.

PK
Click to expand...

It was the blended oil. And BITOG has some very good information.

I figure it's like the candy store. Some go for the simple stuff like a lemon drop. Others go for the Cheesecake with exotic toppings. You get both ends of the spectrum here on Spyderlovers and everything in-between!

(Excuse me while I check to see if there is any of that cheesecake left in the fridge....)
 
Now I don't feel quite so bad about finding out my dealer put 20/50 not 10/40 amsoil last fall, except it was fall not spring or summer. I chewed them out and rightly so cause they didn't tell me I only discovered it by accident, drained it and put 10/40 in. But it's hot here and I drive 10-12 miles each way to work. So I saved the 20/50 and think I'll at least use a qt with the other 2.5 qts 10/40 to use it up, or do y'all think it'll be ok just 20/50 in the summer?


Living the dream while I still can!
 
AbNormy said:
Now I don't feel quite so bad about finding out my dealer put 20/50 not 10/40 amsoil last fall, except it was fall not spring or summer. I chewed them out and rightly so cause they didn't tell me I only discovered it by accident, drained it and put 10/40 in. But it's hot here and I drive 10-12 miles each way to work. So I saved the 20/50 and think I'll at least use a qt with the other 2.5 qts 10/40 to use it up, or do y'all think it'll be ok just 20/50 in the summer?
Click to expand...

AbNormy, with a handle like that, you can use anything you want! :D

I did use a quart with a second for topping off in my previous '11 Rt over a period of several oil changes with no obvious issues.
It brought the viscosity up enough that it was still in the safe zone at the 4K mile changes that I used.
 
Ulflyer seen young Frankenstein? If you knew me before I sobered up 20+ yrs ago you'd understand lol...hard headed I am...

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
 
Ramjet said:
misconception go to: Read and learn this is a great site to get educated.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Click to expand...

Great article but a bit off tangent to what is being discussed here.

Wear is wear and BITOG is right in saying that you need a relatively large number of samples to really know what your metal content readings are telling you. But you only need 1 sample test to tell you if your oil is breaking down prematurely which indicates that you definitely need to A- Change your oil more often or B- Use a superior lubricant.

BITOG is looking at Metal Content which indicates actual wear and the oil's ability to lubricate and protect. This requires time and a large number of samples.

We are discussing SHEAR (the loss of viscosity) which does not indicate actual wear but does give a very good indication of how likely it is that the oil being tested is lubricating effectively. 1 test is all you really need to determine this.

Once you get an oil that is maintaining proper viscosity throughout the service interval. Then you can start comparing it to other oils that also maintain proper viscosity by checking metal content readings. But we are really talking about fleet operations here, not individual Spyder owners.

Another point I would make is that BITOG is looking at engine only applications whereas we are discussing a combined Engine/Transmission where shear is a much bigger problem.

Proper viscosity is not only critical when changing oil, it is also critical that the oil MAINTAIN proper viscosity. Transmissions are much harder on an oils viscosity than the engine. Once viscosity begins to break down then so does the oil's ability to lubricate and protect. Of course it would be expected to see higher metal content when an oil has lost significant viscosity. But as BITOG says, you can't be sure until you get several tests using this approach.

But you can be pretty sure with just 1 test when looking at Shear and Viscosity degradation.

So, measuring viscosity only is not the whole story. But if the oil is not able to maintain adequate viscosity then that is really the end of the story regardless of what an individual metal analysis might indicate.
 
Last edited:
So Ron do you think the oil change interval should/will be shortened in the 2014 if it shears this fast?
 
Magdave said:
So Ron do you think the oil change interval should/will be shortened in the 2014 if it shears this fast?
Click to expand...

If it is confirmed that the oil you are using has sheared to the point that it is no longer offering adequate lubrication then yes, I would recommend shortening the oil change interval until you get good test results.
 
GO LOOK FOR YOUSELF

ulflyer said:
Pretty sure its rated SN......'Slip No-more" :D
Click to expand...

POST #57, use the link, under specs , the 2 nd line down : SM SL SJ SH -----or maybe I'm not reading it right ????? :gaah: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:....I think I am ....Mikeguyver :thumbup:
 
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