stewartj239
New member
That photo helps a ton - thanks for posting. So do you think there is any benefit in removing the stock deflectors from the vents. I guess they would be equivalent to the photo's closed position.
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Recall done BRP call and extra insulation
- Thread starter Magdave
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That photo helps a ton - thanks for posting. So do you think there is any benefit in removing the stock deflectors from the vents. I guess they would be equivalent to the photo's closed position.
OWISE1
New member
I have the Deflectors that move. When OPEN allowing more air flow toward the rider, it seems to me that the air is HOT. When CLOSED, the HOT air at the right foot is some what deflected away.
I was hoping when I got the Deflectors it would help, not much. Even tried removing the panels under the RT-S, what I noticed is it appeared to push HOT air up towards the glovebox and front of seat.:banghead:
I filed a complaint with BRP and was told to contact the dealer, which I have done several times without any fixes. BRP then told me "then there is no HEAT issues", even thought last week the dealer had to replace a melted MC and wiring harness. BRP had that in their notes.:gaah:
So here I sit & ponder....:spyder:
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Magdave
New member
That would probably be a combo between the last 2 pics. You will get more body air flow and that can be good in the summer...not so good in the winter but then the heat would probably be better enough to put them back on. I thing you would get the best airflow to the engine with the #2 position with the vents like that it would result in increased air pressure more so than with removing them all together.
stewartj239
New member
I was hoping to achieve the same result just by removing the stock deflectors. At $189, the adustable ones seem a little expensive.
JJW SpyderRider
New member
Putting tin foil on the MC should fix the issue with baking the MC. Oh, wait a minute, it don't work out too well for the potato
pps:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I won't hurt you to try it. It takes only minutes and costs nothing.
stewartj239
New member
Yes. I am going to try it. Also, I just went through the Spyder with a flashlight looking for ideas and here is what I think might be a good solution.
1. Do the cat removal to eliminate that as a heat source.
2. Remove the belly pans.
3. Purchase the adjustable deflectors as posted by Magdave and put them in the inverted position.
My thinking is that this would allow air to be forced in the top through the vent and out the bottom with the belly pans removed. The cat removal should be much less heat generated on top of that.
Does this sound feasible? Has anyone done this? Like I said, I want to be proactive about this problem because BRP isn't going to fix it for me
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Yes. I am going to try it. Also, I just went through the Spyder with a flashlight looking for ideas and here is what I think might be a good solution.
1. Do the cat removal to eliminate that as a heat source.
2. Remove the belly pans.
3. Purchase the adjustable deflectors as posted by Magdave and put them in the inverted position.
My thinking is that this would allow air to be forced in the top through the vent and out the bottom with the belly pans removed. The cat removal should be much less heat generated on top of that.
Does this sound feasible? Has anyone done this? Like I said, I want to be proactive about this problem because BRP isn't going to fix it for me
Comments:
1. The CAT is located outside the tupperware and pretty far to the rear. It can certainly heat the passenger's left foot, and probably adds some heat to the engine compartment and to exhaust temperatures, but I doubt it is as much as you think. It is exposed to the air as you ride (mainly the bottom) and does dissipate the heat sufficiently that it is not considered to be a fire hazard. I doubt this improvement will do much for heat reaching the rider or accumulating in the engine compartment, just make the Spyder a bit noiser and possibly make it perform marginally better.
2. Removing the belly pans doesn't hurt, but can actually push heated air upward and increase the rider's discomfort near the seat opening. Remember that heat naturally rises.
3. Although placing the adjustable deflectors in the reversed position would force air into the vents, remember that they are made to vent heated air, which rises, out from the top. In my opinion it would be better to put them in the straight position to funnel air over the vents and remove the heat by venturi action. This should work even better with the splash pans removed or with the splash pans fitted with air scoops.
Just my opinions, based on experience and the principles of physics.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Many ECMs have a wide enough range of mapping to compensate adequately, especially if the intake airflow isn't also increased. While the first version of the Spyder RS sometimes can't handle it, the other models probably can. I'm not recommending it, just saying the compensation built in to the ECM is sometimes enough.
Magdave
New member
Nothing when I am done. My plan is to install 2 marine venturi vents on the bottom plate and suck the heat out from the front vent honeycombs and add some holes in the swoop also.
SNOOPY
Active member
It sez ' the high temps are staying under the Tupperware, and not getting out.....nojoke
Magdave
New member
I know you and FB are upset but what temp do you think it should be 6in from the top of the cylinder in what used to be an open hole to it? I re arranged the area a little more and haven't seen above 98 deg at the latch. Seriously I just came back from a ride temp is 80 deg outside and the inside of my glove box was cold:yikes:. Should I have had to pay for the insulating I have done? Nope but it has made progress and when I get the marine venturi vents installed on the bottom I expect it to be even better. Obviously BRP being a water craft dealer knows about what venturi vents do on a boat. They pull the heat and fuel smell out of the engine compartment. I expect the same to happen on my bike. The only possible fly in the ointment may be a lack of wind speed under the bike especially since I have Spyderpops skid plate on but I am betting it will be better.
So, if the ECM is not compensating? Tell me again about how you had to have the ECM changed out on your bike, and went from lean to fat and fouling plugs.....BRP doesn't seem to have a lot of consistency in their mapping .. Wish they had a tunable ECM that could be dialed in on a dyno using A/F and timing settings.
stewartj239
New member
There are a couple of threads on this forum that cover the topic. The computer can handle and adjust for the change. It is a bonus so that the conversion is a true bolt on.
Wiredux
New member
I just ordered on of these. I would like to compare where you are taking temps on your 2013. Ill take the same temps on the 2012 and 2014 if Oct 10 ever gets here.:banghead:
Magdave
New member
My temps are a lot lower everywhere since I DEI taped everything so I might not be a good candidate to compare to. I just odered 2 venturi vents I am going to install on my bottom plates. These are the same ones Boats use to vent the engine/bilge area. I am hoping venturi effect will be sucking all the rest of the heat out. Are you watching BRP ? Something you should consider for your bottom plates to improve airflow. :thumbup: I WILL have the coolest (temp wise) 2013 on the road or I will die trying :roflblack:
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