Recall done BRP call and extra insulation

[NancysToy]

I got it back in my RC Airplane days to help tune the engines. A lean engine runs hotter than a properly adjusted one. Flamingobabe has been talking about hers running lean and hot. I forgot I had it till the other day or I would have been using it before my recall but will be checking with it now.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=823

It is an oldie but a goodie they have more newer ones for the RC crowd now. It only measures up to 430 degrees but good enough for my purposes.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/infrared-temperature-gauge very similar and here are some more links

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXATCL&P=FR

Thanks!

 

[Magdave]

Just to elaborate on the possibility of our engines running lean I have a good background in tuning C4and C5 Corvette engines. The ECM ( We have one on our bikes) are computers that take the O2 readings and adjust the BLM (Block Learn Mode) numbers and adjust the injector pulse widths to either lean or richen the engine fuel input. As I am sure Scotty knows it a perfect world it will adjust them to the proper setting over time in a Corvette that would be 128. Higher is leaner lower is richer. When computer controlled engines are modified programming must be done because the parameters are different after a new cam or supercharger is installed and the original ECM program will not work properly. This may cause over heating or worse. Our engines being stock with what I hope is the proper programming should all stabilize after a few hours of driving. Probably part of the reason there have been reported stalls on new engines as they break in and adjust them selves. If they do not then there may be several issues. Bad injectors, bad plugs, bad fuel pump or bad O2 sensors are the main culprits or the actual ECM program can be buggered up to begin with. Is this part of the heat issues? I can't tell because BRP uses proprietary comms through the BUDS system. I do not know much about the Power Commander but I am guessing it does some adjusting of the ECM pulse width to make the engine run differently. Thus comes the end of my little lesson there is a whole lot more ( including intake air and air temp) that all go into this and since we cannot monitor it real time like an OBD1 & 2 system can we are in the dark. This is the most compelling reason BRP should get off the stick and let us have access to some type of real time BUDS type monitoring. Thanks for attending my lecture:roflblack::roflblack:

 

[Magdave]

Thanks!

You are most welcome I bet you ordered one already :thumbup:

 

[chuck gross]

faulty purge valve

got my STL back from recall service and had the mechanic trouble shoot the stalling issue.
what he found was the purge valve was stuck open and making it run to rich and causing the engine to stall as well as idle rough.
He replaced the valve and reset the ECM my wife rode it home with no stalling and I took it for a 1 hour cruise with no stalls when stopped and idle is good. and no damage to the mc

 

[SNOOPY]

got my STL back from recall service and had the mechanic trouble shoot the stalling issue.
what he found was the purge valve was stuck open and making it run to rich and causing the engine to stall as well as idle rough.
He replaced the valve and reset the ECM my wife rode it home with no stalling and I took it for a 1 hour cruise with no stalls when stopped and idle is good. and no damage to the mc

Cool :thumbup:

 

[PW2013STL]

I also asked about a ball park figure on trade in for '14 they said somewhere around $18k after the current rebates go away. $5k hit in the wallet for 3 months and 1500mi :yikes:

You were offered more than I was. I was only offered $15,000 for mine which is $10,000 less than I paid for it in May.:banghead::yikes:nojoke

 

[Magdave]

glad you got the recall and extra shielding done....covering the gas tank will help a lot.....but the age old problem still exist....when is BRP going to find a fix to get the extreme heat out of the Tupperware......

I have a plan and it goes like this I buy this
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Venturi-Vent

cut a hole in the plastic plates under each side mount them and suck it out :thumbup:

 

[MikeinGA]

glad you got the recall and extra shielding done....covering the gas tank will help a lot.....but the age old problem still exist....when is BRP going to find a fix to get the extreme heat out of the Tupperware......

Another thing that I saw on the 2014 RS & ST is air scoops on upper/middle side panels below the mirror. I have a prototype of a air scoops for my 2011 RS to cool the gas tank & the brake master cylinder and the brake lines. After that I'm going to put the heat/sound barrier on the air box to cool the intake air. I don't have much of a to do list left after this.

Mike

 

[Rick11Flor]

Toño the sorda rigth OUT of my typing

got my STL back from recall service and had the mechanic trouble shoot the stalling issue.
what he found was the purge valve was stuck open and making it run to rich and causing the engine to stall as well as idle rough.
He replaced the valve and reset the ECM my wife rode it home with no stalling and I took it for a 1 hour cruise with no stalls when stopped and idle is good. and no damage to the mc

Well it seems that mine had four codes And are Being addressed. Now parts on order. Will pick up the bike tomarrow during parts come in. I also had the p0127 that has NOT been addressed yet. Also the clacking during takeoff on reverse or first. Will see soon.:yikes:

 

[stewartj239]

Our engines being stock with what I hope is the proper programming should all stabilize after a few hours of driving. Probably part of the reason there have been reported stalls on new engines as they break in and adjust them selves.

I found this to be true. My 2013 RT-S stalled twice coming home from the dealer and did it at idle on a fairly regular basis. It was more of a skip and stall where the RPM would drop down to 1200, then the engine would skip and at that point it would either stall or recover. In addition, the motor also felt like I was running it with the brake on - there just seemed to be so much drag on it. All of it went away at about the 1800 mile mark. No more stalls, no more idle dipping down to 1200 RPM and the engine now revs and pulls cleanly. My MPG too have gone from 29 to 31.

This is a great thread as I'm looking for ways to move the heat out of the Tupperware. It seems like the heat is inherent with the design of the enclosure which appears to plague all model year RTs. I know the 2014 has the radiators moved forward, but it looks like the basic design is still the same, so I guess time will tell if the problem is still there.

 

[flamingobabe]

Another thing that I saw on the 2014 RS & ST is air scoops on upper/middle side panels below the mirror. I have a prototype of a air scoops for my 2011 RS to cool the gas tank & the brake master cylinder and the brake lines. After that I'm going to put the heat/sound barrier on the air box to cool the intake air. I don't have much of a to do list left after this.

Mike

Pics.....please

 

[Magdave]

Had some extra tape and did the inside of the glove box as it was warm at the top I will see how it works. Temp at seat front after 20 mi ride was 101, latch area 98 and near gas cap by the Tupperware was 120 but cap was cool to the touch. Still have a little gap between the black plastic and Tupperware near there. I am feeling more secure now. Got some new ideas for the black hole and under body and will post when I get them done. I am betting I can get the temps down even more with the Attwood Venturi vents I am planning for the bottom pans. :thumbup: I told Fireball ( I finally named it) resistance is futile you WILL be cooler.:spyder:

 

[Magdave]

Pics.....please

I assume he is talking about these



Not so sure these are a good thing for the 13 I have checked those honeycombs and they get hot it is one of the few places heat can rise out of and it does. You can get pretty much the same effect with BRP adjustable vents in the mid position for a lot less $$$.

 

[flamingobabe]

the VTC products do not fit 2013...per their website.....

 

[vmaxman]

I assume he is talking about these

View attachment 76072

Not so sure these are a good thing for the 13 I have checked those honeycombs and they get hot it is one of the few places heat can rise out of and it does. You can get pretty much the same effect with BRP adjustable vents in the mid position for a lot less $$$.

IS NOT THAT THE REASON HERE TO GET THE HEAT OUT? DOES NOT MATTER WHERE IT GETS OUT AS LONG AS IT GETS OUT OF THE TUPPERWARE AND AWAY FROM COMPONENTS THAT OVER HEAT, CATCH FIRE, ETC. ALSO, WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER OR HOW DO I GET THE BRP ADJUSTABLE VENTS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. I THINK THIS IS A GOOD WAY TO GET HEAT OUT AND IS THE REASON BRP PUT THEM IN THE 2014 ST MODELS. GIVE ME INFO ON THEM AND DO THE ONES YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT FIT THE 2013 ST MODELS? THANKS

 

[Magdave]

IS NOT THAT THE REASON HERE TO GET THE HEAT OUT? DOES NOT MATTER WHERE IT GETS OUT AS LONG AS IT GETS OUT OF THE TUPPERWARE AND AWAY FROM COMPONENTS THAT OVER HEAT, CATCH FIRE, ETC. ALSO, WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER OR HOW DO I GET THE BRP ADJUSTABLE VENTS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. I THINK THIS IS A GOOD WAY TO GET HEAT OUT AND IS THE REASON BRP PUT THEM IN THE 2014 ST MODELS. GIVE ME INFO ON THEM AND DO THE ONES YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT FIT THE 2013 ST MODELS? THANKS

Don't yell I can hear you :yikes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRP-Can-Am-...d=100033&prg=1011&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=141059049696&

They do fit the '13 RT and when inverted ( they have 3 positions) they work like a scoop into the honeycomb.

 

[SNOOPY]

Don't yell I can hear you :yikes:

I think his keyboard is stuck, he's been yelling all day. :roflblack:

 

[stewartj239]

Don't yell I can hear you :yikes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRP-Can-Am-...d=100033&prg=1011&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=141059049696&

They do fit the '13 RT and when inverted ( they have 3 positions) they work like a scoop into the honeycomb.

I noticed that on the stock 13, the wind deflectors prevent any straight on air from hitting these vents. I wonder if removing the stock deflectors would at least allow a little air to get in there.

Also, with the link to the scoops you've provided, should air be deflected into them or is it designed for air to rise out of them?

 

[Jackspyder]

I noticed that on the stock 13, the wind deflectors prevent any straight on air from hitting these vents. I wonder if removing the stock deflectors would at least allow a little air to get in there.

Also, with the link to the scoops you've provided, should air be deflected into them or is it designed for air to rise out of them?

Good question. I know there's a lot of hot air coming out from the vents when parked. I am curious if removing the deflectors will help with air movement inside the tupperware when the vehicle is in motion.

 

[Magdave]

Good question. I know there's a lot of hot air coming out from the vents when parked. I am curious if removing the deflectors will help with air movement inside the tupperware when the vehicle is in motion.

That is my belief is it would increase air flow in when moving.