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Front Spark Plug Removal on RT???

plugs removed

take front end off less time to do the front air box and done 40mins in all ..off and on that works good for me:yes:
 
Egad what an ordeal

Don't know what I did wrong, but my machine absolutely hates my new sparkplug/wire setup. Tomorrow, after I've modified a ratchet to get to the front plug from the left side (thank you very much) I'm going to reverse all I did, hopefully. From the start, it has spit, jumped ,flashed then died. Misfires for days. Either I bumped, disconnected or damaged something else in the process or??? I have never seen the likes of this machine. But, I'm going to get to know this one as well as I have my other bikes if it's the last thing I do. End of rant, back to thread.

Patrick, aggrivated Spyderlover
 
Wow Dude!

Don't know what I did wrong, but my machine absolutely hates my new sparkplug/wire setup. Tomorrow, after I've modified a ratchet to get to the front plug from the left side (thank you very much) I'm going to reverse all I did, hopefully. From the start, it has spit, jumped ,flashed then died. Misfires for days. Either I bumped, disconnected or damaged something else in the process or??? I have never seen the likes of this machine. But, I'm going to get to know this one as well as I have my other bikes if it's the last thing I do. End of rant, back to thread.

Patrick, aggrivated Spyderlover


Man I just hate thinking about that happening. Was a concern that I had also, (what if). I wonder, did you get the wires crossed or damage the gap on the plug? Mine, and this might just be in my mind. Seems a little more responsive to throttle with new plugs and wires. Not a hole lot of things can go wrong with this other than gap or damaged wire or eve crossed wire. On mine the inside wire on the coil went to front plug. Hope you get it worked out. Let us know
 
Don't know what I did wrong, but my machine absolutely hates my new spark plug/wire setup. Tomorrow, after I've modified a ratchet to get to the front plug from the left side (thank you very much) I'm going to reverse all I did, hopefully. From the start, it has spit, jumped ,flashed then died. Misfires for days. Either I bumped, disconnected or damaged something else in the process or??? I have never seen the likes of this machine. But, I'm going to get to know this one as well as I have my other bikes if it's the last thing I do. End of rant, back to thread.

Patrick, aggravated Spyderlover

Just a guess here, But it sounds like you might have damaged a spark plug wire, or you didn't tighten a plug, Easy enough to do, some times the socket jams against he head and then it feels tight.:dontknow:
 
Last of this

Well here's the last of this for a while. Wires weren't crossed, in spec resistance wise per the shop manual, torqued ~1/4 turn and greased up. Went back to the original configuration and all is now well. Went in from the left side with this rigthe rig.jpg and here is what I took outplug3.jpg
what I noticed this go round was the plug# ended in 9 vice 8, but still with the IX. I will have to research further to see what this means. For now, disaster averted,now to ride it sufficiently to warm it up and blow the cobwebs out before reassembly. Oh, and I'll probably leave the front wire routed around the head vice through them, wrapping them up out of harm's way as before. Conclusion? I dunno, will check the resistance of the "new" wires to see how they measure up.Sheesh, the most painful wounds seem to be self inflicted. And if it works don't **** with it.

Healing nicely, Patrick
 
Heat Range

If you're using NGK plugs, the "9" is a colder plug than the "8". The 2010 RT's came with 9's. The 2011's came with 8's and 8's are suitable for replacement plugs in the 2010's. Apparently BRP found that the RT's were being run "easier" due to their better low end torque and overall style of riding and thus the plugs were fouling easier than on the RS's. So they went to a hotter plug to minimize fouling. Unless you run the daylights out of yours, the "8" would be the better choice. If your new plugs are iridium, they will resist fouling better than regular plugs so you might be better able to get away with a "9". Personally I'll go with iridium's in a "#8" when the time comes. I've got a 2011 that came with the "8's".
 
Is it just my imagination

Took spyder for a ride today for the first time since installing plugs, wires and green air filter. Might just be my imagination but seems that
she likes what I have done. First thing I noticed was she wasn't cold natured at all like before and had a little more pep in her step. Anyway was very pleased with performance so far.
 
front plug

Does anyone have any tips on getting to and removing the front spark plug on a RT short of removing the entire airbox? :helpsmilie: Back plug was easy. Looks like the air box is pretty difficult to remove itself (wire ties, 6 screws, hoses, and removal of frame brace). Surely there must be an easier way.:dontknow:

Any advice would be appreciated!
I had some luck by removing the top of the air box and went in front of the radiator on right side which gave me enough room to allow me to use socket 3/8 to1/4 reducer and 1/4 ratchet and 1/4 knuckle. i removed the shroud in front of the radiator except for like 1 bolt enough to get your hand in and work the ratchet it was still hell but doable :banghead:
 
Well here's the last of this for a while. Wires weren't crossed, in spec resistance wise per the shop manual, torqued ~1/4 turn and greased up. Went back to the original configuration and all is now well. Went in from the left side with this rigView attachment 40758 and here is what I took outView attachment 40759
what I noticed this go round was the plug# ended in 9 vice 8, but still with the IX. I will have to research further to see what this means. For now, disaster averted,now to ride it sufficiently to warm it up and blow the cobwebs out before reassembly. Oh, and I'll probably leave the front wire routed around the head vice through them, wrapping them up out of harm's way as before. Conclusion? I dunno, will check the resistance of the "new" wires to see how they measure up.Sheesh, the most painful wounds seem to be self inflicted. And if it works don't **** with it.

Healing nicely, Patrick

I don't spend much time here on the RT boards because I have an RS so I was not aware of your problems with my products. Lamont mentioned this post to me today and I would very much like to find out what is causing this problem and help in any way I can.

1- From the looks of your pictures you're running way to rich. Idling for long periods of time, lugging the engine, or a lot of misfiring can also give you this condition. These plugs are probably fouled.

2- You are using too much thermal paste. You need just enough thermal paste on the threads to fill the voids between the mating surfaces. Using too much you end up with a lot of paste at the top of the threads. It won't hurt anything and will not cause issues, just makes a mess.

3- You should be using the hotter '8' heat range NGK's. If I sent you 9's it was either my error or I did not know you had an RT.

4- If the new wire/spark plug setup had issues it is most likely that they were not installed correctly. It is very important to be sure you have the terminal ends shapped onto their respective connection points. On the Spyder it does take some care as it is not always easy to tell if you have proper connection. If the terminals are not properly attached to the spark plugs and coils you will definitely get issues right away because the spark cannot get to the spark plugs.

5- It is unlikely, but possible, that one of my wires is defective. I have not experienced this to date but anything is possible. Have you checked resistance/continuity yet?

6- It is even more unlikely that you got a defective spark plug and I highly doubt that this is the cause of your problem. I have heard that a few have had issues with the Iridium spark plugs but this is almost certainly something other than the spark plugs themselves.

Iridium spark plugs are not a gimmic or market hype. Iridium is definitely an upgrade to standard spark plugs. They are widely used by both the consumer and racing industry and have performed as advertised. It takes less spark energy to jump the gap between electrodes so Iridium plugs have a stronger, more consistant spark, and are less likely to misfire. Not to mention about 3 times the service life. This is probably why BRP is now putting Iridium spark plugs in all new Spyders. They are worth the additional expense.

One last comment, if I may. If anyone experiences a problem with my products, or any Spyderlovers supporting vendor, please let us know. We put quite a bit of effort into our products and we want them to perform for you. I think you'll find all of us want to be as helpful as we can to reslove any issues you might have.
 
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Oh Boy !!!!!!!!

After listening(reading) all of you.......I can hardly wait to do a plug and wire change.....Not!:pray:
 
I am doing this right now for the first time on the RT. I have to say the pictures and descriptions of how to get to it really help. Let's see if I can do this with minimal cursing. Wish me luck!
 
I see that I was the last person to post on this topic..... let's just say that day I attempted the spark plug change on the RT was one of the worst ever!! Took me 6 hours from start to finish. I am in here looking at threads again on the subject, because after two years and 15,000 miles it's time to do this again!!!! This time I am going to try by not only loosening the bottom part of the airbox, I am also going to just go ahead and pull the trunk off so I don't have to pull my hair out. Wish me luck!!!
 
I don't envy you the task you have before you.

I pulled out the air-box when I installed JT's air filter. I must say it is very nice having that space free and the ease at which I can now get to the front plug.

Yup, do pull the frunk off. Its not but 4 screws on top and two below then a few electrical disconnects. Having that out the way does give you a bit more room to move around and curse in.
 
I see that I was the last person to post on this topic..... let's just say that day I attempted the spark plug change on the RT was one of the worst ever!! Took me 6 hours from start to finish. I am in here looking at threads again on the subject, because after two years and 15,000 miles it's time to do this again!!!! This time I am going to try by not only loosening the bottom part of the airbox, I am also going to just go ahead and pull the trunk off so I don't have to pull my hair out. Wish me luck!!!


Just get rid of the air box and replace with JTs air cleaner. Less heat, better access and you only have to do it once.
 
Just get rid of the air box and replace with JTs air cleaner. Less heat, better access and you only have to do it once.

Unfortunately I do not have the time or money to do that right now as we are leaving in only two short weeks for Spyders in the Redwoods in California and this has to be done before we leave. TRUST ME.... It's been in the back of my mind ever since the last time I did this and nearly lit a stick of dynamite in that stupid airbox.
 
I don't envy you the task you have before you.

I pulled out the air-box when I installed JT's air filter. I must say it is very nice having that space free and the ease at which I can now get to the front plug.

Yup, do pull the frunk off. Its not but 4 screws on top and two below then a few electrical disconnects. Having that out the way does give you a bit more room to move around and curse in.

If it's even a little easier than it was the last time when I tried to sneak in there from either side with the box still in the engine cavity, I'm all for it. The mechanic at my California dealer said that taking the trunk off does help a lot.
 
If it's even a little easier than it was the last time when I tried to sneak in there from either side with the box still in the engine cavity, I'm all for it. The mechanic at my California dealer said that taking the trunk off does help a lot.

I don't think you're going to gain much by removing the Frunk. The air box is the biggest culprit and it's not really all that much work to take the top off and remove the 6 throttle body screws so the bottom portion can be moved out of the way. Especially when you consider the alternative.

Good luck! We'er all pulling for you!
 
I don't think you're going to gain much by removing the Frunk. The air box is the biggest culprit and it's not really all that much work to take the top off and remove the 6 throttle body screws so the bottom portion can be moved out of the way. Especially when you consider the alternative.

Good luck! We'er all pulling for you!

Loosening the lower part of the airbox to move it is not the problem.... that's no big deal. That's what I did the last time and I still had problems. It's trying to work around it to get to the front plug. Why oh why did they make it impossible to remove the lower part of the airbox out of the engine cavity as it is on the GS/RS?? I can do a tune up on the GS in about a hour or less.... doing it on the RT is like having a second full time job. :banghead:
 
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