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Front Spark Plug Removal on RT???

SpyderGirl said:
Loosening the lower part of the airbox to move it is not the problem.... that's no big deal. That's what I did the last time and I still had problems. It's trying to work around it to get to the front plug. Why oh why did they make it impossible to remove the lower part of the airbox out of the engine cavity as it is on the GS/RS?? I can do a tune up on the GS in about a hour or less.... doing it on the RT is like having a second full time job. :banghead:
Click to expand...


Then just remove the air box, change the plugs and put it back in. Its not THAT big a deal to remove. The right hand brace needs to be moved out of the way, along with all the stuff mounted to it. Once done and the bolts are off, the box comes out in one piece easy enough. I was just suggesting you not put it back in. Removing it still gets you access to the plugs.
 
Just changed the plugs and wires on my wife's 2010 RTS. Three hours total start to finish. Removed the airbox. Removing the frunk only gives you room if you don't remove the airbox.
 
bruiser said:
Just changed the plugs and wires on my wife's 2010 RTS. Three hours total start to finish. Removed the airbox. Removing the frunk only gives you room if you don't remove the airbox.
Click to expand...


HOW???!!?? There is a frame piece in the way that blocks the complete removal of the box.... trust me, I remember when I did this two years ago. I had to break a piece of the box off with a saw to get it out.... and that was after a lot of cussing and sweating.

If it were just that easy, how come everyone on here is complaining about how much of a b*tch it is. I'm interested in hearing your secret. Do tell. How do you remove that brace and then put it back into place?

This is for my husband's 2011 RT-S.
 
SpyderGirl said:
HOW???!!?? There is a frame piece in the way that blocks the complete removal of the box.... trust me, I remember when I did this two years ago. I had to break a piece of the box off with a saw to get it out.... and that was after a lot of cussing and sweating.

If it were just that easy, how come everyone on here is complaining about how much of a b*tch it is. I'm interested in hearing your secret. Do tell. How do you remove that brace and then put it back into place?

This is for my husband's 2011 RT-S.
Click to expand...


That frame piece is only held in with 5 bolts. And it does not need to be entirely removed, just moved aside enough to allow the airbox out.
 
I have done the spark plugs & wires (BajaRon) installation last week on my Spyder RT 2011 from the left side (where you check oil) WITHOUT removing the air box using a setup similar to this one (taken from post #46 and #37 of current thread):

the rig.jpg P1040033sm.jpg
Its not that hard and has taken me less than 2 hours to change both spark plugs and the wires. Just make sure that engine has cooled off if you don't want to have a burn (:gaah:... I should have followed this advice!).
But I must agree that this damn spark plug was not easy to replace. Also I recommend if you still have the stock OEM spark wires to replace them with Bajaron wires while you are there.
 
jcthorne said:
That frame piece is only held in with 5 bolts. And it does not need to be entirely removed, just moved aside enough to allow the airbox out.
Click to expand...


Hmmm... that's not how I remember it from two years ago. I am sure I would have noticed that there was just five bolts to take off. I'll have to see when I get in there.
 
dvandal said:
I have done the spark plugs & wires (BajaRon) installation last week on my Spyder RT 2011 from the left side (where you check oil) WITHOUT removing the air box using a setup similar to this one (taken from post #46 and #37 of current thread):

View attachment 91592 View attachment 91593
Its not that hard and has taken me less than 2 hours to change both spark plugs and the wires. Just make sure that engine has cooled off if you don't want to have a burn (:gaah:... I should have followed this advice!).
But I must agree that this damn spark plug was not easy to replace. Also I recommend if you still have the stock OEM spark wires to replace them with Bajaron wires while you are there.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that is the way I tried to do it last time and it didn't work. Not enough damn room to turn the tool in there, and I have small hands and arms. The last time I replaced the stock with BajaRon's wires and plugs, so they should be easier to get off this time. Still is going to be a pain to get at that front plug, but if I can get that lower airbox out, then no problem!

If I can get it out as easily as others are saying, then I won't need sixteen attachments to my ratchet to get at it. LOL

If I get it done in 3 hours, I'll be thrilled.
 
Last edited:
SpyderGirl said:
Hmmm... that's not how I remember it from two years ago. I am sure I would have noticed that there was just five bolts to take off. I'll have to see when I get in there.
Click to expand...


I am giving you first hand information. I have DONE this myself. On two different Spyders, mine and the misses. Its not guesswork or theory.
 
jcthorne said:
I am giving you first hand information. I have DONE this myself. On two different Spyders, mine and the misses. Its not guesswork or theory.
Click to expand...


Oh, I believe you. It has been two years since the last time I did this on a RT. I've done it several times on my GS. Maybe I was too pissed off to notice the easy way to get the box out of there. It certainly is possible. It was the end of August in Northern California and it was like a gazillion degrees outside. LOL

I'm glad to know that that brace is removable, that'll make my life so much easier. Thanks.
 
Yeah, that is the way I tried to do it last time and it didn't work. Not enough damn room to turn the tool in there, and I have small hands and arms.
Click to expand...

I know what you means, a standard 1/2 ratchet was too long for me. I instead used a 1/4 ratchet (the small ones) with an adaptor 1/4 to 1/2 and this has worked for me and has given me enough space.
 
AVERAGE

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE MILEAGE CHANGE OF A SET OF PLUGS.....? :dontknow:
OR DO MOST PEOPLE CHANGE THEM ONCE A YEAR REGARDLESS OF MILEAGE...? :dontknow:

:bbq:
 
I was able to get the air box lower half out without removing the support. I did bend the panel attaching "ear" down on the support. I can't explain the full procedure I used. I guess anyone who has worked on older fighters and bombers can do things. I've been told that removing the glove box helps too. I didn't do that either. I looked at the manual on removing the support and it doesn't look too hard and there are more than 5 bolts holding it. I'm going to be changing the plugs on my '12 RT soon. I'll see how that one goes.
 
Look at the service guide. I think on the 997 it's around 12,000. I don't have mine at hand so I can't say for sure.
 
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