Front Spark Plug Removal on RT???

[Gordy]

Be sure to use a light coating of dielectric (tune-up) grease inside the plug boot, to make removal the next time easier.

:agree:did this

 

[Gordy]

RS plugs are easy, but I'll be doing my first RT plugs this Sunday. Bought a set of wobble extensions of various lengths, and I have small hands, so I might get lucky.
Does anyone have photos of the wrench setup they used to get to the front plug? As more RTs are sold and reach 12k miles, this will become a more common question.

I used a 6 inch and 3 inch extention and a 3/8 flex ratchet and loosend the plug and tightened it from the right side no problem at all.removed and installed the plug from left side the hard part was getting spark plug boot off.if I had to do it again i would have removed boot from plugs at a low mileage and put on dielectric grease in boots for easy removeal

 

[NancysToy]

Still looking for advise here, either a photo of the wrench & extension setup OR...I can easily remove the enture front trunk, would that give me easy access to the front spark plug? Anyone done it this way?

Sorry, no pics of the setup. Hard to take pictures when you're cussin'! Removing the trunk won't help, as far as I can figure.

 

[Gordy]

:agree:

 

[Questions]

Remove and install from the lh side of the bike, you won't have to remove the airbox cover or trunk.

 

[Bob Denman]

Oh yea, don't forget the proper cuss words!

Does BRP have a part number for them, or can we improvise??:gaah: :cus:

 

[MarkLawson]

Does BRP have a part number for them, or can we improvise??:gaah: :cus:

Only if you have the BEST warranty.

 

[Hobstopper]

I agree with Rhino79, it can be done from the LH side for both plugs.
Caveat, the smaller you arms the better.
You only have to remove the LH middle side panel, LH mirror, LH top side panel, and the plastic sheild under the top side panel.
At this point you can get to the rear plug, after changing that plug if you take a flashlight and shine it over the front cylinder you can see the plug wire for the front plug.
Before reaching in you may need to tuck some connectors that reside over the front cylinder up out of the way, this will make it easier to get your arm in.
Reaching across the front cylinder you can pull the plug wire for the front plug (hopefully grease was used so that it is not overly difficult to pull off), next using a STUBBED rachet you can then remove the plug.
From this side you also have access to the distributer and you can fish the front plug wire out for inspection (I used a 18 gauge wire fed through to fish the wire back after inspection, there is a tie rap that the plug wire goes through on the far side, but it is loose and easy (within reason) to guide the plug wire back through using the guide line wire.
Like a said, the smaller the arms the better and use of a stubbed rachet is almost needed. I didn't have one, but wish I did, the job was still not that bad and after the first one I feel that I can changed both plugs within an hour.
One other thing that will help someone who does it, is to keep in mind that when reaching across to put the plug back in the socket you need to angle it back in toward the cylinder so that you hit the hole. It took me a couple of attempts, but finally got it in.

One note on taking my front plug out, I have been noticing a miss under heavy load. When I went to remove the front plug with the rachet I was expecting to give it a reasonable wrenching for it to come loose, well it was already loose! It wasn't rattling loose, but I did not have to use any force to get it to start turning. The plugs them shelves actually looked pretty good (I had about 10,000 miles on them and they are the second set, first replaced at approx. 12,000 miles) they are whitish to grayish in color and no visible signs of blackening or improper burn.

 

[NancysToy]

I agree with Rhino79, it can be done from the LH side for both plugs.
Caveat, the smaller you arms the better.
You only have to remove the LH middle side panel, LH mirror, LH top side panel, and the plastic sheild under the top side panel.
At this point you can get to the rear plug, after changing that plug if you take a flashlight and shine it over the front cylinder you can see the plug wire for the front plug.
Before reaching in you may need to tuck some connectors that reside over the front cylinder up out of the way, this will make it easier to get your arm in.
Reaching across the front cylinder you can pull the plug wire for the front plug (hopefully grease was used so that it is not overly difficult to pull off), next using a STUBBED rachet you can then remove the plug.
From this side you also have access to the distributer and you can fish the front plug wire out for inspection (I used a 18 gauge wire fed through to fish the wire back after inspection, there is a tie rap that the plug wire goes through on the far side, but it is loose and easy (within reason) to guide the plug wire back through using the guide line wire.
Like a said, the smaller the arms the better and use of a stubbed rachet is almost needed. I didn't have one, but wish I did, the job was still not that bad and after the first one I feel that I can changed both plugs within an hour.
One other thing that will help someone who does it, is to keep in mind that when reaching across to put the plug back in the socket you need to angle it back in toward the cylinder so that you hit the hole. It took me a couple of attempts, but finally got it in.

One note on taking my front plug out, I have been noticing a miss under heavy load. When I went to remove the front plug with the rachet I was expecting to give it a reasonable wrenching for it to come loose, well it was already loose! It wasn't rattling loose, but I did not have to use any force to get it to start turning. The plugs them shelves actually looked pretty good (I had about 10,000 miles on them and they are the second set, first replaced at approx. 12,000 miles) they are whitish to grayish in color and no visible signs of blackening or improper burn.

Well, I am plenty skeptical, but I will give your method a try, for the sake of comparison. I do have concerns as to whether a stubby ratchet will have enough leverage to loosen the plug. Anyway, you have convinced me that this is worth a try. Every time I remove the airbox, it makes me crazy.

 

[Hobstopper]

just did it this morning, like I said I did not have a stubby and without it was a little agravating. I had to go one click at a time (not a lot of room) to finish the tightening of the plug. I have pretty good forearm strength and would feel confident that I couild get it with a subby, some may not. I have worked on my own stuff since I was a teen and as you probably know as well, where there is a will there is a way
All this said, I feel confident next time (if I remember what I did:gaah I should be able to do it within an hour, all though I changed to the Iridium, so I hope I won't have to do it for awhile down the road.

I will see if the loose plug and the change to the Iridium plugs will take care of the miss that I was having since I am getting ready to pull the tent trailer in the AM.

Good luck with yours:2thumbs:

 

[rcdurango]

I hate to ask but..

Well, I am plenty skeptical, but I will give your method a try, for the sake of comparison. I do have concerns as to whether a stubby ratchet will have enough leverage to loosen the plug. Anyway, you have convinced me that this is worth a try. Every time I remove the airbox, it makes me crazy.

I just got BajaRon's wires and plugs to install. I have done many spark plug and wire changes but after reading these trends I just have to
ask, How hard is it? How much do I need to remove just to get it done right. Just would like to know before going in if I'm coming back out alive. I know your the man that can tell me what to expect.

 

[NancysToy]

I just got BajaRon's wires and plugs to install. I have done many spark plug and wire changes but after reading these trends I just have to
ask, How hard is it? How much do I need to remove just to get it done right. Just would like to know before going in if I'm coming back out alive. I know your the man that can tell me what to expect.

Changing plugs the conventional way on an RT is a time-consuming chore. It requires removal of the body panels on both sides, and both halves of the airbox. The first time I did it it took hours, although I got better in time. I have not needed to change the plugs on my 2011, so I have not tried Lamont's "back door" method, but if you could alleviate having to remove the airbox bottom and the right side panels, it would be a great time savings. This is not something that is easy to describe, since everyone's mechanical difficulties and toolbox contents vary. The only way you will know the answer is to try. Your alternative is to pay your dealer several hours of labor to do the work...if they will even install any aftermarket goodies for you.

 

[Sarge707]

NGK Iridiums Have Not proved any real benefit in my Jet Ski Forums over several years in the Rotax engines.
My 09 RS has 16,000 miles and I do not expect to change the Plugs until they need it Or 20,000. nojoke

 

[kinggeek]

I just got BajaRon's wires and plugs to install. I have done many spark plug and wire changes but after reading these trends I just have to
ask, How hard is it? How much do I need to remove just to get it done right. Just would like to know before going in if I'm coming back out alive. I know your the man that can tell me what to expect.

It is a pain in the butt but it can be done if you have the time, patience and tools.

Honestly the hardest part for me was getting the front plug wire out. If you can get that done you are home free. If you shortcut it by going in the left side as suggested there in not enough room to get any leverage to pull the wire off the plug. That part took 1+ hours and a lot of :cus::banghead::cus: followed by :yes:! Then get out the stubby ratchet and do the easy parts.

 

[boborgera]

NGK Iridiums Have Not proved any real benefit in my Jet Ski Forums over several years in the Rotax engines.
My 09 RS has 16,000 miles and I do not expect to change the Plugs until they need it Or 20,000. nojoke

I tried the Iridiums on my GS 08, After 15 hundred miles i went back to stock, I found that at WOT there was a slight hesitation, I know this go's against the grain, but as an old drag racer i'm not fooled by the placebo effect.

 

[Lamonster]

This is what my dealer used to get the front plug out from the left side.

 

[rcdurango]

I can say, I did it now.

Ok here's what I got to say about front plug, Oh ya I cant talk like that on here. Anyway to all that say you can get that plug by going
in from the back door they're right. Here's what it's like. Getting the wire off is a pain but when you hold your mouth just right it will just
pop off. Then taking it out to replace is another trick but it will come out. I rerouted my new wire over the head to make getting off easier
the next time. Hopefully this will not cause any issues but seemed to be alot of room for it and added a few ties to keep it up and out of the way. No way I was going back between the heads with that wire unless the breather box comes out. Next getting a socket on the plug takes alittle effort but not near as much as getting new plug started back in. Hopefully I got it tighten enough. I was thinking of the head and didn't want to get real rough with it. Changed the oil while I was there and installed BajaRon's filters and Amsoil oil. Now just waiting for the Green air filter to install.
I would say if your going to do this take your time and don't get in a hurry.

 

[eddieshep999]

With reference to rcdurangos post :-

I agree about moving the Ign lead from between the Heads I also rerouted mine see my earlier post :-

I changed my out with the help of a friend (An experienced Mechanic)
The shorter wire was easy as the Cyclinder was closest
The far cyclinder was more difficult and we did consider having to remove the Airbox to get access - Could not see where the lgn wire
went as mine was threaded between the Cyclinders and back into the cyclinder head
I kept moving the lead and we could see it above the cyclinder and realised it could be done from the same side - a little tight but with
the correct Plug socket and small extensions it was removed and the new plug and lead installed

Getting the old wire out was difficult although it was not zipped tied the protective sleeving kept jamming against the 2 cyclinders
We cut some of this sleeving off and managed to get the old ign wire out

With the new lead it goes from the Coil direct to the far cyclinder - It is zipped tied away from the cyclinder head and because of this
it will be easier next time to get the boot off and replace the Spark Plugs on both cyclinders

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

 

[Pandy]

This just in...

I just did the iridium plug and Accel wire (BajaRon) replacement on my RTS. Thanks to all on this topic,loosening the airbox and shoving to and fro was the answer. What a super PITA, but, I'll be leaving those plugs in there a long time.Oh, in case anyone was curious, RadioShack stocks the heat sink grease. Only a coupla bucks but probably enough for a number of plug changes. Only bad moment was a brief limp home mode message upon startup, and I attribute that to general messing about with connectors and such, or weak/low battery. Quitting for now, will reassemble and roadtest tomorrow.

Patrick

 

[Dirty Harry]

RT Front plug removal

remove the front trunk and slpit the air box from the air intake and you can reach the plug if you have small hands

Good luck
Dirty Harry