Peteoz
Well-known member
Sarge, re the gauges, there are two Krikit guages you can buy. One measures from 0-150lbs, and another measures from 100-300lbs. That is most likely why RR needs two different guages.
Pete
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F3 Front Sprocket Inspection
- Thread starter Roadster Renovations
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Sarge, re the gauges, there are two Krikit guages you can buy. One measures from 0-150lbs, and another measures from 100-300lbs. That is most likely why RR needs two different guages.
Pete
Roadster Renovations
New member
Yep.
Sarge707
Active member
https://youtu.be/z11wfc-0-hY
The larger gauge should be used for ON or OFF the ground for consistency and they are designed for different belts.
Any test- TO BE CONSISTANT- Must use the same Gauge!
The tension on the F3 should be MUCH lower than 180 Pounds because High tension contributes to the problems-
Lastly JUST because you take off the cover and see some Red dust Does Not mean your Sprocket is Toast -
To find out for sure you have to Buy the $10 Bolt and take it off and look at the sprocket and if its fine Put the NEW bolt on to the proper torque?
I have my belt to 120 Pounds and the Belt rides right in the Middle of the front sprocket -which to me means its putting equal pressure on the front sprocket.
I think tensioners are a waste of time and contribute to the sprocket problem BUT do whatever you want- I'm moving on!nojoke
ofdave
New member
appreciate your opinion,
never said it was "Grenading" because of a "Little Red Rust".
With 3100 miles I should see no rust, zero, none-period. There are several comments in this thread about 10,000-20,000 plus miles and no rust. I think that is acceptable. At 3100 miles, it is not acceptable to me.
I have no concern about "the $10 bolt" and were I to install a new one you can rest easy, it would be at the proper torque. The bolt secures lateral movement and the splines control rotational movement. I get that.
I will, because of the relative newness of the machine, let the dealer have a look and resolve the issue of the rust.
Your comment on belt tension may be valid. However, opinions on this point vary widely on this site.
Getting the same tension with the rear wheel both on and off the ground, as you did, seems impossible to me. Likely I will reduce from the 180 when the pulley issue is addressed.
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People are losing grip on reality.
365 posts?
over 22,000 views?
I fail to see what the big problem is.....
Once every 5,000 miles spend 5 minutes of your time and remove the sprocket cover and have a "looksee".
If you see red dust call your dealer and have it replaced......free under warranty or a cheap fix if not.
My sprocket was covered in red dust with 19,000 miles on it and my tech told me it wasn't even close to failure.
I don't blame BRP for voiding warranties of those who are changing the specs and experiencing issues.nojoke
365 posts?
over 22,000 views?
I fail to see what the big problem is.....
Once every 5,000 miles spend 5 minutes of your time and remove the sprocket cover and have a "looksee".
If you see red dust call your dealer and have it replaced......free under warranty or a cheap fix if not.
My sprocket was covered in red dust with 19,000 miles on it and my tech told me it wasn't even close to failure.
I don't blame BRP for voiding warranties of those who are changing the specs and experiencing issues.nojoke
jcthorne
Well-known member
Lets just say those with experience with this issue disagree with your 'tech'. If the pulley was covered in red rust, that is metal from the splines and no where else. They are far closer to failure than you can imagine. Once they start wearing and depositing red rust dust on the pulley, the rust causes the wear to accelerate and its a pretty fast down hill spiral from there.
If there is a coating of red iron oxide dust and your tech tells you its fine and will not replace the pulley, go elsewhere and get it fixed or at least carry great roadside assistance plan to pick you up when you get stranded.
Roadster Renovations
New member
I agree 100%. Even removing the bolt no one, any tech included, can determine how much fretting has occurred and how long the splines have left before they grenade. Since there is no taper on the splines (read previous posts about front sprockets being installed backwards) the bolt has nothing to do with the spline fit to shaft, other than to hold it in place. If it was tapered, re-torquing the bolt would push it farther onto the shaft and compensate for any wear. Since that is not the case, doesn't matter how many new bolts you throw at it, it will not change the spline wear (red rust). This is why BRP to my knowledge has not refused to replace any sprocket showing the red rust.
Bottom line: If it is showing red rust, it will fail at some point in the future. Insist on it being replaced.
BRP fixed my sprocket under warranty, he never even hesitated at its replacement.
I never saw the interior of my sprocket, I was simply stating what he told me after the replacement.
I just feel that this thread is grossly over the top compared to the actual issue.
I don't think 5 minutes of your time every 5,000 miles to have a "looksee" is a major issue.
I feel its a cheap and fast fix should you experience "red dust". :yes:
Sarge707
Active member
If you never saw the sprocket and he said it was No where near the failure point How do you really know if he replaced it? "Just Sayin?":hun:
Dealers have been know to do a $800 Valve check on older models that never got done.
I don't.
I don't know if he actually changes the oil or if he is adding the BRP oil.
I don't know if he is checking everything as listed on the service schedule as mandated by BRP.
....but if he wants to keep me as a customer he needs to keep me satisfied. :thumbup:
Madmartigan
New member
Add me to the list
I took my cover off and as you can see it's covered in rust. I will be contacting Whites Cycle here in Chattanooga on Monday. Hopefully it won't be too much of a hassle to get it replaced. My 2015 F3S only has 7,433.8 miles on it. BRP needs to come up with a permanent fix. You should not have to worry if you are going to be able to ride home or be towed home every time you leave your house.
I took my cover off and as you can see it's covered in rust. I will be contacting Whites Cycle here in Chattanooga on Monday. Hopefully it won't be too much of a hassle to get it replaced. My 2015 F3S only has 7,433.8 miles on it. BRP needs to come up with a permanent fix. You should not have to worry if you are going to be able to ride home or be towed home every time you leave your house.
Roadster Renovations
New member
Good catch! Let us know how it goes.....
Highwayman2013
New member
So it does happen to SM6 bikes, we were led to believe it was only SE6 bikes.Good luck on the fix.
mcurtright
New member
Those curious about front sprocket stripping out
on rt yes. It happened on mine this past Monday.
Oddly enough I just had 19,000 mile service done
the week before and dealer said drive belt was worn
out. I have a 15 rtl by the way. :gaah:
on rt yes. It happened on mine this past Monday.
Oddly enough I just had 19,000 mile service done
the week before and dealer said drive belt was worn
out. I have a 15 rtl by the way. :gaah:
jcthorne
Well-known member
Yes, I have had to give the bad news to a couple RT owners myself during the multipoint inspection part of a service visit. Manuals and Automatics do not seem to matter.
Bruiser37
New member
Front Sprocket Inspection
Problem exists in all 2016 and probably 2017 Spyders. Just replaced front sprocket on 2016 F3-T at 16Kmi... just missed grenade stage by few miles. 90% of spline gone to rust dust. My clue to problem was a couple months of increasing louder high pitched whistle when closed throttle engine braking. This suddenly turned to loud metallic thrashing... this is final stage indicative of immediate grenading. Immediately push it to a dealers shop is only option if you aint stuck in the hinter land. :sour:
Problem exists in all 2016 and probably 2017 Spyders. Just replaced front sprocket on 2016 F3-T at 16Kmi... just missed grenade stage by few miles. 90% of spline gone to rust dust. My clue to problem was a couple months of increasing louder high pitched whistle when closed throttle engine braking. This suddenly turned to loud metallic thrashing... this is final stage indicative of immediate grenading. Immediately push it to a dealers shop is only option if you aint stuck in the hinter land. :sour:
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