Bearing Pieces in oil

[Caito]

Did you use a ring compressor?

No.. this is the first time I ever putting a piston in a cylinder and learned my lesson. pps: I used a big ratchet clamp off a rubber drain pipe connector on my second try to hold the rings in and it slide in most of the way. I used a small screw driver to give the last ring a little squeeze and it slide in the rest of the way. I also did put the piston into the cylinder first. I then tipped my engine on the side to put the pin in. It took all the weight off while I put the pin and the clip in.

The rear cylinder is back on, all the gears are back on, clutch reassembled and back on. The front cylinder is locked at TDC and just waiting for the rings to show up tomorrow. I am going to put the rest of the gears back on the magneto side today and the fly wheel will be going back on today too. Oh yes and I did replaced the broken needle bearing in the clutch and pack it with bearing oil. :thumbup:

Just couple of points.

*I did left the clutch cover off to help located TDC for both cylinder. You can see TDC coming up by looking at the crank or the cam loop. You can also double check by watching it coming up from the clutch side. On the clutch side with the cover off there is an opening in the crankcase. I can see the bolt hole in the mag swing by. When it line up with the bolt hole on the crankcase then slide your locking bolt in and lock it. The crank will not move and you are on TDC. You can double check the cam loop and valves on top.
*I shined a small flash light into the bolt hole on the crank case to line things up. EASY WAY.
*I also did it by feel. If you thread the locking bolt in until it hit the mag then back off just a hair. While TDC is coming up then just try to thread the bolt in slow and easy as you turn the crank. The locking bolt will go into the bolt hole eventually and the crank will lock. This will be useful if the engine is on the bike and all the covers is on.
*The Dow Corning oil is almost like a Vaseline paste.

I will try to load a picture of it later but internet very slow lately.

Thanks.. stressful but had fun. Like always any tips, tricks and I must know please send it this way.

 

[KX5062]

Good job so far. :clap:

 

[Caito]

Piston ring didn't show up at the dealer today. They said BRP sent the last set to some dealer in Quebec instead of me. I guess luck would have it... :banghead: It is now on back order and I guess it shows up when it shows up. There will be no more work done until the rings are here. I will post again once the parts get here. Thanks for the support..


Ps. Will up load some pics later that might be of interest of follow spydies. I think our carrier trying to get us into ordering fibreop and my high speed been slowing to a snail pace lately. They are succeeding because I ordered it today.

 

[Caito]

A few pics might be of interest.

 

[jtoro1]

Are you going to ajust the valves ?

 

[Caito]

Are you going to ajust the valves ?

Hmmm.. I dont think I will be adjusting anything. The engine ran perfect before I took it apart. I would just like to put her back together the way it was with my new bearing installed. The less I mess around the less things can go wrong. I am really not that goo at this.

 

[Caito]

piston marks A or B

Base on the service manual.. the top of the piston suppose to have marking on it. A or B size. This marking also serves as an direction indicator of which way the piston should points. Well .. you guess it.. there is no marking on top.
Anyone would like to share any knowledge or bad news ..

I took a chance and installed I the way I thought I did took it off and I hand cranked the engine. It moves smooth and not hitting anything. I took it I am not going to bent any valves when I turn the key. Any thought???

PS. Make sure mark your pistons before theybcomen off.

 

[DrewNJ]

Actually, Since you have the motor out, it would be really easy to check the valve clearance. The procedure is in the manual and wouldn't take more than a few minutes.

 

[billrob71]

Actually, Since you have the motor out, it would be really easy to check the valve clearance. The procedure is in the manual and wouldn't take more than a few minutes.

And would be a wise decision since you have it apart , not A hard job with the manual to give you your specs and there's nothing in your way.

 

[KX5062]

Agreed. Once you taken the top end apart and reassembled it, things change ever so slightly. It would be foolish not to go the extra inch or two to check the valves.

 

[Caito]

Thank you for the suggestions. I will check the valves when I get a chance but right now that's the last thing on my plate. I installed the new piston rings and reassemble the front cylinder. I can crank the engine by hand without problem before I installed the front timing chain and gears. The seconds I thought I was done and crank the engine. I can't crank the engine more then a couple of turns by hand. Any thoughts ??? I followed the service manual to the teeth and I just can't seems to see where the problem could be. I am wondering if the balance shaft and the crank are not in sync. Could they be hitting when they turn? Could the front timing gear are off that might be causing this? Please help ...:helpsmilie::banghead::banghead::helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie:


I am going to take one more crack at it tonight then it will be another week before I can go at it again. Welcome any thought you might have. Thanks

 

[jtoro1]

Check timing and have the spark plugs out so it turns over by hand

 

[DrewNJ]

Also, are you rotating the right direction?

 

[jtoro1]

Make sure it is in neutral when you turn it by hand after you get it to turn then put it thru all the gears

 

[Caito]

Thank You for keeping track of your exploits.
Much appreciated.

Thanks. I thought someone might find it useful some day down the road.

 

[Caito]

Check timing and have the spark plugs out so it turns over by hand

I am going to check my timing again and the spark plugs is already out. I can see the valve half way open and then stop. I am thinking the piston might be at the wrong spot. Thanks

 

[Caito]

Also, are you rotating the right direction?

I am pretty sure I am . The engine however seems to be able to rotate both direction pretty free with just the rear cylinder on. Even with the front cylinder on without the timing gear install. It also rotates free. I am highly suspecting that the timing gear is off for the front cylinder. ???

Thanks

 

[Caito]

Make sure it is in neutral when you turn it by hand after you get it to turn then put it thru all the gears

so if is not in neutral when I put it together. The engine might not be able to turn ??? It is a semi automatic.. I not sure how I am going to shift the gear yet. I will have to look and see.

First I am going to go over everything I did. Second I am going through what the book told me to do one more time with the front cylinder. I am 100% sure I got the rear cylinder right. In the mean time I like to know if I am in neutral or not. There isn't really a lever like the standard shift do but I might be able to turn the shifter by hand on the clutch side. Thanks and wish me luck. Going to need it...ray:ray:ray:

 

[billybovine]

The gearbox in a SE is identical to a SM. Instead of a long lever for your foot on a SM there is a short lever operated by the HCM. They both attach to same shaft on the left of the engine. Get a 13 mm open end wrench (in your tool kit) put it on the flats on the back of the shift lever. This will give you enough leverage to easily shift up and down the gears.

 

[Caito]

The gearbox in a SE is identical to a SM. Instead of a long lever for your foot on a SM there is a short lever operated by the HCM. They both attach to same shaft on the left of the engine. Get a 13 mm open end wrench (in your tool kit) put it on the flats on the back of the shift lever. This will give you enough leverage to easily shift up and down the gears.

Thanks.. I will try it.:thumbup: