Bearing Pieces in oil

[DrewNJ]

Your going the route I would have gone too. I would rather spend the time and money to go through the motor and do the repairs myself and know its right vs. Buying a used motor and rolling the dice on the outcome.

The water pump is easy. Leave it intact with the case. Its gear driven and part of the case. Likely, you won't have to mess with it.

 

[billrob71]

Good luck , I would of done the same thing but I'd be looking for bigger pistons , cam and a stroker crank .

Keep us updated :thumbup:

 

[KX5062]

Good luck , I would of done the same thing but I'd be looking for bigger pistons , cam and a stroker crank .

Keep us updated :thumbup:

Think Aprilia WSB (World SuperBike).:firstplace:

 

[billrob71]

Think Aprilia WSB (World SuperBike).:firstplace:

Yep
Already there , bike is still to new to be ripping it apart though I'm just enjoying it as is for right now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Caito]

Down to the flywheel..

Just waiting for the tool from BRP to take the flywheel or Magneto off. So far there are no damages at all as far as I can see. There seem to be some play on the Front Sprocket shaft. I am not sure if that is the way suppose to be. Does anyone know if it should or not?? I can see my trans from the crankcase opening. What I can see looked good. I can't wait to get in there and put my Spyder back on the road. It's been too long since I ride.

Part number for the tool 529036097 (Magneto Puller) and the Crank locking bolt for locking the Crankshaft 529036098. The locking bolt would be useful anytime you need to do anything to the timing chain.Service manual recommended you find TDC and install locking bolt before you do anything to the timing chain and something else too. ( I can't quite remember) I am sure the lock bolt will come in handy when I put motor back together again.

So far I had proceeded without problem with my minimal set of mechanical skills. I am sure most of us have the will to do this, CAN. Just do a lot of reading and ask a lot of questions. Prepare to purchase the right tools for the job. I keep a step by step journal as I goes about my business. I took a lots of before and after pictures everytime I took a part off. Just pay a lot of attention to details and I also try to avoid power tools as much as I can. I have a 2 foot and a 4.5 ft cheater bar handy when those locktite get in the way. If the bolt don't move just STOP and think about your next step. There might be a better way then force your way through which might end up damaging something. You are then into a bigger job or perhaps more expensive.

If anyone have any good tips or I must have to put the motor back together. Please jump in and shares your knowledge. General tips like putting the gasket back on, Parts need to be locktite, or anything that might help make my engine runs again. :helpsmilie:

My real work always seems to get in the way of fixing my bike but attached is a few pics on how far I get.

 

[jtoro1]

It is good to take a lots of pictures to remine you where parts came from,good luck

 

[KX5062]

Just waiting for the tool from BRP to take the flywheel or Magneto off. So far there are no damages at all as far as I can see. There seem to be some play on the Front Sprocket shaft. I am not sure if that is the way suppose to be. Does anyone know if it should or not?? I can see my trans from the crankcase opening. What I can see looked good. I can't wait to get in there and put my Spyder back on the road. It's been too long since I ride.

Part number for the tool 529036097 (Magneto Puller) and the Crank locking bolt for locking the Crankshaft 529036098. The locking bolt would be useful anytime you need to do anything to the timing chain.Service manual recommended you find TDC and install locking bolt before you do anything to the timing chain and something else too. ( I can't quite remember) I am sure the lock bolt will come in handy when I put motor back together again.

So far I had proceeded without problem with my minimal set of mechanical skills. I am sure most of us have the will to do this, CAN. Just do a lot of reading and ask a lot of questions. Prepare to purchase the right tools for the job. I keep a step by step journal as I goes about my business. I took a lots of before and after pictures everytime I took a part off. Just pay a lot of attention to details and I also try to avoid power tools as much as I can. I have a 2 foot and a 4.5 ft cheater bar handy when those locktite get in the way. If the bolt don't move just STOP and think about your next step. There might be a better way then force your way through which might end up damaging something. You are then into a bigger job or perhaps more expensive.

If anyone have any good tips or I must have to put the motor back together. Please jump in and shares your knowledge. General tips like putting the gasket back on, Parts need to be locktite, or anything that might help make my engine runs again. :helpsmilie:

My real work always seems to get in the way of fixing my bike but attached is a few pics on how far I get.

View attachment 91948View attachment 91949View attachment 91950

Don't rely on the crank locking bolt to hold the crank in place when doing heavy work on the engine. On most motorcycle engines, they index into a small witness groove on the crank and are made of hardened steel. Heavy applications of force can damage the crank or the soft aluminum case. That bolt is normally designed only to hold the cams in place when doing valve adjustments and not for disassembly.

Take a penny (soft metal) and place it into the gears behind the clutch basket. The gears are heat tempered steel and the penny is very soft, so it has the effect of jamming the gears up without damaging the teeth, and thereby locking the crank. Loosen the clutch basket and stator bolts with an impact wrench, either air or electric. Those are usually torqued on and sometime loctited and can require a great deal of force to loosen them up. The rapid movement of the impact wrench will break it loose without drama or damage. You can pick up a 1/2" electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight for $20 or so and it works well.

If the clutch hub retaining nut or stator bolt does not come loose easily, then use a propane torch to heat it up. Not too hot, just around 200-300*F. The easiest way to tell is to spit on it. If it immediately sizzles, then you're about right.

When separating the case halves, DO NOT pry them apart. They usually have some kind of sealant that acts like glue. Take a soft mallet, like plastic, not rubber, or a dead-blow hammer, and tap the case halves vigorously. Again, you're looking to shock the sealant loose.

HTH

 

[Caito]

Got it off.. Thanks

Don't rely on the crank locking bolt to hold the crank in place when doing heavy work on the engine. On most motorcycle engines, they index into a small witness groove on the crank and are made of hardened steel. Heavy applications of force can damage the crank or the soft aluminum case. That bolt is normally designed only to hold the cams in place when doing valve adjustments and not for disassembly.

Take a penny (soft metal) and place it into the gears behind the clutch basket. The gears are heat tempered steel and the penny is very soft, so it has the effect of jamming the gears up without damaging the teeth, and thereby locking the crank. Loosen the clutch basket and stator bolts with an impact wrench, either air or electric. Those are usually torqued on and sometime loctited and can require a great deal of force to loosen them up. The rapid movement of the impact wrench will break it loose without drama or damage. You can pick up a 1/2" electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight for $20 or so and it works well.

If the clutch hub retaining nut or stator bolt does not come loose easily, then use a propane torch to heat it up. Not too hot, just around 200-300*F. The easiest way to tell is to spit on it. If it immediately sizzles, then you're about right.

When separating the case halves, DO NOT pry them apart. They usually have some kind of sealant that acts like glue. Take a soft mallet, like plastic, not rubber, or a dead-blow hammer, and tap the case halves vigorously. Again, you're looking to shock the sealant loose.

HTH

Just got the Magneto wheel off this morning. Thank you for your advice. I jammed some soft cloth inside the case and wrap it around the arms then I impacted it. It came off after my second try and you are right. It got plenty of loctite on it.

I do have a question and hoping you or someone can answer this for me. Once I took the Magneto off and the rest of the gears on this side off. It does not seems to have anything else preventing the case to be split and come off. Why is it necessary to take the clutch off to pull the case. Is it possible to leave the clutch side together and pull the case on the magneto side? Any advice or help welcome. Jokes too .. :helpsmilie:


Thanks

Attach pics. 1 Magneto puller 2. crank locking bolt. 3. Magneto off 4. First piece of metal found 5. Clutch side with the cover off

 

[jtoro1]

Looked at my service manual it does not say what you asking but my feeling is if you can take the big gear off on the drive pulley side and the other gears offyou might be able to spit the 2 sides, my manual is not very good it is the techspark studio CD , good luck and keep us posted I am every interested in the out come

 

[KX5062]

You might be able to do it that way. I've never done a Spyder or Aprilia engine, so I can't specifically. You can try, and if it's a no-go, you didn't have anything other than time and energy to lose. However, sometime there are hidden case bolts underneath clutch hubs.

 

[Motorcycledave]

If I were in your place and having the tools and time I would
do a total tare down inc. removal of the pistons and check everything
If you are that far into it, it may be fun to enlarge the bore and up the power
while it out

 

[billybovine]

I see you did not use pennies to jam the gears. Probably don't have any left since they took them out of circulation. Interesting project to watch unfold. If I have anything to contribute I will but it looks like mostly moral support. So good luck.

 

[Caito]

I see you did not use pennies to jam the gears. Probably don't have any left since they took them out of circulation. Interesting project to watch unfold. If I have anything to contribute I will but it looks like mostly moral support. So good luck.

The pennies might come out of the piggy bank soon. I was trying to take a gear off but it just kept on spinning. I had to stop because of my real work get in the way.

 

[Caito]

Case started to split.

Crankcase started to split but then something hidden was holding it. I am going to follow the service manual from here on. The clutch will be coming off , the rest of the timing chain and gear are coming off, shifter shaft and the rest of the gears from the Magneto side. Day off work tomorrow and I will be working on the engine. I am hoping to have the crankcase split and see what parts I need by tomorrow. :thumbup:ray:

 

[billrob71]

Following along :thumbup:

Take a lot of pics and notes.

 

[DrewNJ]

Do you happen to have a cam stand? If so, While you have it apart would you mind putting a caliper/dial on the cams and measuring the exhaust and intake lobes? And maybe measuring the valves??

 

[NorCalBud]

Bearings of STEEL!!!

I must take my hat off to you Caito! You, Sir, have bearings of Steel!:bowdown:
I'm also a bit envious as well... I haven't rebuilt a engine since the mid 80's when I was rebuilding my old 70 Camero. Those were good times and good memories, at least in retrospect.
I'm learning a lot from you even though my hands are still clean and my knuckles aren't busted open...
Thanks so much for including us in your endeavor!

 

[Caito]

Do you happen to have a cam stand? If so, While you have it apart would you mind putting a caliper/dial on the cams and measuring the exhaust and intake lobes? And maybe measuring the valves??

Sorry DrewNJ. I don't have a cam stand. I am really not that good with this mechanic thing. I have everthing apart but I really have no clue what you are asking me to do. :dontknow: If you can explain it a bit more in details then maybe I can give it a go.

 

[Caito]

I must take my hat off to you Caito! You, Sir, have bearings of Steel!:bowdown:
I'm also a bit envious as well... I haven't rebuilt a engine since the mid 80's when I was rebuilding my old 70 Camero. Those were good times and good memories, at least in retrospect.
I'm learning a lot from you even though my hands are still clean and my knuckles aren't busted open...
Thanks so much for including us in your endeavor!

Thanks. I am also learning a great deal as I moved along and actually enjoying it too. I am glad that you are enjoying this thread and I will continue to post my progress until my bike is back on the road again. Thank you for the encouragement.

 

[DrewNJ]

Sorry DrewNJ. I don't have a cam stand. I am really not that good with this mechanic thing. I have everthing apart but I really have no clue what you are asking me to do. :dontknow: If you can explain it a bit more in details then maybe I can give it a go.

Don't sweat it man. Just continue on, so far your doing good.
Keep us posted on what you find.
Best advice I can give you is don't cheap out when putting it back together when it comes to buying gaskets....