• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Recent content by Wheelz

  1. W

    abs fault, twice, blew 10amp running light fuse twice, hit the taillights to turn on

    I'm having the same exact problem. Running lights but no brake lights...VSS/ABS comes on when coming hard into a turn...when you find the problems..let us know....:thumbup:
  2. W

    DPS Part Numbers

    In order for a P/N to roll...there has to be a change to "Form, Fit, or Function".
  3. W

    Well I got mine back

    Since I'm experiencing the same probs...I'm wondering what the magnet does on the end of the DPS assembly is. I think it sits just under the SAS sensor. From reading the manual, it said that this magnet is VERY sensitive. It can not be dropped nor be placed on a steel surface. Maybe the techs...
  4. W

    DPS Mileage

    Mine went at a little past 19,5k and the new DPS, just under 1 tank full of gas in the twisties. Yes, I too would hear this audible "POP" and the errors would start scrolling and then into "Limp Home Mode". This i could hear just sitting at a stop light and turning the bars very slightly (left...
  5. W

    D.P.S. fuses pulled

    I've had both updates but still no go. I pulled my fuse to get home..didn't get the error messages anymore but the DPS does help from wearing you out. If you're highway driving and going point a to point b..then no prob..but if you are going to be in the twisties w/out DPS....you WILL be worn...
  6. W

    Brake failure once again

    since its used, I bet your pads need changing. Once your pads gets past its wear point, you set off the "low pressure" switch since the brake piston is at its max stroke. You can temporarily "reset" this warning light until you get them replaced. With the Spyder off, pump your brake lever until...
  7. W

    Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

    Here's another if you want a better quality ceramic bearing.. http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=7585&n=SMR6205C-2YS/TH9/C4_#3_NB2
  8. W

    Rear Wheel Bearings

    has anybody sourced out for aftermarket bearings that'll work for our application? like ceramic bearings. I just dont know the size of our bearings...Anyone have the specs?
  9. W

    Electric Shift.

    I use the Pingle Electronic shifter. Its made specifically for the spyder and no custom fabrication needed. http://www.pingelonline.com/eshifter_spyder.htm
  10. W

    My Unique Mods

    I have to keep the Spyder on to watch the gauge so it doesnt fill up to the new cap...that wouldn't be good because the venting is still the original and all of that gas would overfill the charcoal canister and possibly start a fire... I just did this mod..so I'll write it up with...
  11. W

    A Two Brothers Option...

    just remember to repeat yourself when you talk to her ;)
  12. W

    ISCI handbrake....better news

    I had a little brain fart there with this gimpy mind :shocked: When I first did my system over a year ago, the only option for us was tapping into the system and eliminating the brake pedal. Then as more riders got involved, the slave cylinder came about. So, I was still in the old frame of...
  13. W

    ISCI handbrake....better news

    Is 16mm bore even strong enough for all 3 wheels? How much lever effort are you applying? From all the mechanics I've talked to 20mm was the min.
  14. W

    ISCI Hand Brake- you guys are going to love this

    Bah! Just follow the directions I sent you Seth...11K miles on my setup and its just fine...ditch that cable...
  15. W

    Removing the trunk and wheel fenders

    you dont have to remove the wheels...just remove the bolts that fasten the fender suports to the hub...you could push the fender lights thru the fender and unbuckle the staps that hold the harness to the supports...easy peezy
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