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  1. #1
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    Default Electrical problem

    I have a 2010 can am spyder rt-s with most the bells and whistles. My problem is with the switches that control the air ride, handle grip heaters, and the driving lights. They donít seem to have power to them. Do they all use the same fuse? And where is the fuse located? I have already checked all the fuses in the fuse panel and 3-4 inline fuses that I could find. I really could use a hand to get my bike back on the road.

    Thanks in advance
    Atch

  2. #2
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    Atch I Moved your post from welcome area to RT area.

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    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    Recheck the fuses individually with a DVOM. I've had fuses that look good but were actually bad. Then try swapping the relays that are in the same fuse block as the fuses. Look in Owners Manual to find the relay for those switches. You can probably get a new relay at any autoparts store, just take the bad one with you. Good luck.
    2015 RTS SE6 Special Series (bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)(13,200@9/16/2019)
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    Atch, just a little more Troubleshooting, does your horn work or not. It's on the same fuse as the Air Ride,
    Safe Rides,
    David and Sharon Goebel
    Both Retired USAF Veterans
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Yeah. Everything fits for a blown fuse, F8, or bad load shedding relay, R5. If the horn doesn't work, it's the fuse. As mentioned, must be removed and tested. If the horn works make sure all relays are fully seated. You can test it by swapping with R4 or replace. Front fuse box. Labeling inside the cover.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

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  6. #6
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGoebel View Post
    Atch, just a little more Troubleshooting, does your horn work or not. It's on the same fuse as the Air Ride,
    Question: Does the horn circuit have a relay. Asking cuz I want to add a second for a more penetrating dual tone. I have a F3L, but my guess is if the RT horn is relayed, so would the F3L's.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Well, the earlier year RT's were not relayed. Not sure if they changed that design for the newer years. Some folks that have added after market horns have added a relay, and some haven't. The horn button seems to be able to handle the extra load with no issues. Best bet would be to just check your fuse / relay boxes and see if you have a horn relay in your F3.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

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    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    That was one of the first things I did after bringing it home was to open the fuse boxes and check things out. There is a horn fuse, but no relay marked that its for the horn.
    You are right; when in doubt - put a relay on it.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    I had an aftermarket horn installed in my '13 at Spyderfest and they added a relay for it.
    Safe Rides,
    David and Sharon Goebel
    Both Retired USAF Veterans
    2013 RT Limited, Pearl White
    Farkles too numerous to list
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  10. #10
    Active Member Sarge's Avatar
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    I removed the stock horn and installed a Stebel air horn (139 db) in its place. I had to make a steel bracket about 6 or 8 inches long, used the original mounting bolt and positioned the horn in the left hand middle body grill so its output is straight out. It is LOUD! I did not use a relay, however, I have one on hand and at the ready just in case. I don't like NOT using a relay. From other posts, it should be fine as long as I don't lay on the horn for more than a second or two. One poster stated he hit it for 10 seconds with no ill affects. We'll see.

    https://www.amazon.com/Stebel-116900.../dp/B00CMX20H4
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    This is a block diagram for 2010 to 2012. RT Spyders.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    RTS 2011 SM5


  12. #12
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    Already checked fuses with VOM all checked good. Will try to find relays tomorrow

  13. #13
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    Already checked fuses with VOM all checked good. Will try to find relays tomorrow
    Can you tell me where the relay is located? I don’t have the maintenance manual yet

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    Are their fuses in the front of the bike, inside the front compartment?

  15. #15
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    Yes, that is where the relays and fuses is located.
    RTS 2011 SM5


  16. #16
    Active Member JIM W's Avatar
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    If I remember right there's a plug under the left side Tupperware For all the switches maybe it got unplugged somehow.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    That was one of the first things I did after bringing it home was to open the fuse boxes and check things out. There is a horn fuse, but no relay marked that its for the horn.
    You are right; when in doubt - put a relay on it.
    Yep. Always. [ with an added suppression diode across the contacts for good measure ].

    It's not so much the steady load when the button contact closes, it the repetitive arcing from opening/closing induced by the inductive loads of a horn that eventually degrades the button's contacts - (unless it's piezo).

    I receive my 'free' paper service manual on Saturday - I'll check it to confirm/refute presence of a relay (2019 F3L), if you don't have an answer to yer Q by then.

    Cheers
    E

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    Very Active Member spyderCodes's Avatar
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    It could be a fuse problem, of course.
    I suppose multiple fuses could blow but it is kind of unlikely.
    You may also want to check that the switches are securely seated in their individual sockets.
    The sockets are a real adventure to get to, but if it isn't a fuse(s) then I think that remains a real possibility.

    The Power of Logic.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM W View Post
    If I remember right there's a plug under the left side Tupperware For all the switches maybe it got unplugged somehow.
    THIS.
    And.....I doubt that all of those things share a common relay. But I don't know that for sure.

    Edit:
    After looking at the diagram, it could be the "load shedding" relay.
    In that case, the horn should still work.

  20. #20
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entropy View Post
    Yep. Always. [ with an added suppression diode across the contacts for good measure ]
    Being more the wrench spinner type than an electrical guy, I know what a suppressor is on a gun, but a suppression diode? Ya got me there, E.
    Ric
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    Being more the wrench spinner type than an electrical guy, I know what a suppressor is on a gun, but a suppression diode? Ya got me there, E.
    Ric
    Howdy;

    NP, sir. Pitchers' worth a few hundy words ...

    Suppression across contacts/load:

    relay 1.png


    Suppression across relay coil:

    relay 2.png

    One protects the 'relay 'trigger' ( e.g, whatever's driving the relay coil); one protects the contact / load. BackEMF is very bad juju.

    Possibly overkill in this instance, Unless one is implementing a huge airhorn compressor, lol. But - the magic's in the details. Guilty. Use a 1N4007 ( 1 amp, 700v PIV ). Stout.

    Cheers
    E

  22. #22
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM W View Post
    If I remember right there's a plug under the left side Tupperware For all the switches maybe it got unplugged somehow.
    You may be on to something there. After a quick scan of the wiring diagram. The only thing I see in common is one harness connector PIC1. Every panel switch, of the 4 possible, has leads going through that connector. So if it got unplugged that would do it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGoebel View Post
    Atch, just a little more Troubleshooting, does your horn work or not. It's on the same fuse as the Air Ride,
    No, the horn doesn’t work either, but I checked all the fuses with a VOM that I could find under the seat. Is there any other fuse panels somewhere else?

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    I’m really stupid for not coming here in the first place. I spent $900 trying to figure out what the problem was. It figures that the problem was a $1 fuse. I want to thank everyone that posted suggestions. The problem was a blown fuse. I never realized that there was a fuse panel in the front compartment.

    Thanks everyone,
    Atch

  25. #25
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I am glad you found it. Thanks for posting the resolution. Bruce
    RTS 2011 SM5


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