Is this a Major Electrical Short??? Any suggestions?

[solidgranite]

My 2012 RT SE5 has gone insane. I came home from a ride, and parked it as usual. It starts and runs, but the transmission does not operate, the windshield control does not operate, the turn signals do not operate, the hi/lo beams do not operate, etc. I've checked the fuses as best I can... none blown. Seems like I have a major electrical short, but I don't know how to isolate it or repair it. My Can Am dealer is reluctant to even diagnose my Spyder because of its age. Any suggestions?

 

[Peter Aawen]

That doesn't sound great, and it could well be a short somewhere; but I'd still suggest that your very first step should be to load test your battery, checking to ensure that it has AT LEAST 12 volts under starting load (our Spyders are VERY power hungry, and any less than 12 volt capacity under load in your battery means that you are likely to experience things just like those you describe! ) and while you're there, make sure all of your battery terminals and earth connections are tightly secured onto clean, bright metal (just don't strip the captive nut on the earth point under the seat or break the nut out of its captive position! )

Once you know that your battery is good, you've either resolved the issue (properly charged or got a new battery &/or checked/fixed the charging system ) or you've at least got a proper baseline to start troubleshooting from, but until then, you're just wasting your time & maybe money - so do the battery check FIRST!

Good Luck!

 

[EdMat]

Relay.

 

[Woodenfish]

There is good news and bad news. First the good news, you don’t have a short circuit. Now the bad news, you have an open circuit. Looking at the fuses won’t tell you much if the fuse looks good you still don’t know if it has power to it so you will need a voltmeter for best information. I don’t know anything about the electrical schematic on your RT but looking at the symptoms listed and knowing something about automotive electrical diagnostics it could be the ignition switch circuitry to start the engine is good but other circuits the switch controls are inoperative. It might be good to know if that’s the case. Measuring changes in voltage to those fuses with key off and then key on might be the best and easiest access points. Maybe a bad ignition switch with burned contacts, or maybe a wiring harness connection point. Without a schematic or knowledge about the wiring system it would be nearly impossible if you’re not lucky.