• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Is this a Major Electrical Short??? Any suggestions?

Did you do the battery testing Andy described? If you posted it, I missed it. But, that's where I would suggest you start before anything drastic.
Yes, and the voltages were within the tolerances given. I did examine all the fuses , but wasn't sure how to set the voltmeter for the 4 (and5) prong relays. I can't possibly diagnose the problems from a wiring diagram so...as soon as I can, I'll remove the battery, and take it to an auto parts place where they'll do a full and total charge. My RT is a 2012 model, so removing the battery is like doing a root canal on a Kodiak bear with no anesthesia! In 2013 they moved the battery location to the frunk, but mine is under the seat in the most inconvenient position possible. I'll keep ya posted...
 
Yes, and the voltages were within the tolerances given. ... < snip > ...

As mentioned before, I, and many others here, have found that if your battery voltage drops below 12 volts during any load testing, especially under starting load when there's a large electrical load put on the battery, then you are very likely to have issues with getting all the computers and sensors, solenoids etc fired up and doing their thing properly at the same time!!

So if your load testing shows anything less than
12 volts at any time, you really need to check all your Spyder's terminals and earthing points to make sure they are clean, tight, and onto bright metal (star washers will help keep them that way) being very careful with that main earth under the seat, cos it can be easily over-tightened and strip the captive nut out of the frame! Then you can try properly charging the battery (with an AGM Charger, not just a tender) and see if that helps.

If not, then it's probably new battery time, and you'll need a good quality battery (NOT a BRP battery!) with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hrs, as anything less won't work for long, and you will need to make sure that it's been properly charged (at least 8 hours on a proper charger) BEFORE installation - and don't just take the retailer's word for it!! Most don't, they just give 'em a quick surface charge, enough to start the first couple of times in the hope that any riding you do after will keep ahead of the battery dying, or you'll be a long way away from them when it fails! Failure to charge a new battery properly before installation can mean that you kill even a brand new battery within a couple of starts, and that's even before you start looking at how well the V-twin Spyder's Magneto charging system is working... :rolleyes:
 
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