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What's the correct oil capacity for a 1330 motor?
- Thread starter merlot
- Start date
Gwolf
Well-known member
It is really simple. The manual just makes it seem complicated. After you check it one time, you can do it from then on, same as checking the oil in your car. There is nothing complicated about it. You just have to run it before you check it, unlike the wet sump systems on most vehicles. You don't need to check it but once every 1,000 miles if you don't see any puddles under it. That would only be about once a month or less, for most people.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Did you see my photos above? The pressure pump inlet is about 1/4 of the way from bottom to top. The way I read the manual the outlet, of course, goes to the engine but the pressure relief line goes to the pump inlet, not back into the tank. The only oil going into the tank is from the three scavenger pumps. So contrary to what you apparently are used to seeing there is no outlet/inlet at the bottom of the tank, at least not that I have been able to discern. But there must be one somewhere to drain the oil when we change engine oil.
Gwolf
Well-known member
There is only one scavenger pump. There is scavenger sumps for each cylinder that drain to the scavenger pump pickup, but only one pump. It is a two stage setup, geared to the pressure pump that supplies lube oil to the bearings. They are located very low on the left side of the block.
The long oil plug bolt on the left side with the o-rings in the center of it, opens a gallery when it is removed that drains both the sumps at the same time. When the plug is installed, the center o-rings keep the dry sump and holding tank from mixing.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
OK, I think I found it. In this close up you can see a recess in the casting. It looks like it could be the passage back into the crankcase. This is just above the bend in the arrow in the photo above. If I'm right then this is where oil is free to move back and forth between the crankcase and tank. Looking in the service manual photos of the upper and lower halves of the cylinder block there are noted oil passages that go to the sump directly in line with this point of the block. I can copy pics from the manual if anyone wants.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Sorry to have to quibble with you. This is from Subsection 04 (Lubrication System) of the 2014 service manual.
Gwolf
Well-known member
It is not separate pumps. It is sets of internal gear pumps mounted on the same shaft (stages of the same pump). The pressure feed pump is on the next shaft and they are geared to each other. There is another pump, but it is not listed as part of the lubrication system. It is inside the clutch cover and returns oil so that there is circulation in the transmission and clutch.
That was five years and 40k miles ago. I figured it out in the first 30 minutes and 30 miles of ownership. BRP and numerous owners are still struggling with it.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I'll guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on how we interpret the written description and the diagrams. The description sure reads to me like there are 3 different pumps pumping 3 different sources of oil with 3 different discharges. I see 3 different single stage pumps on two different shafts driven by 2 sets of gears.
:clap: :clap: :bowdown: :clap: :firstplace: :thumbup:
And I am just doing what I can so it does not take that long. :shocked: :dontknow:
.
PMK
Active member
If you are awaiting delivery of the Spyder, very cool. As for checking the oil, it was easy in the first year, when BRP came out and stated to run the engine until the fans cycled twice before checking, then it got really crazy.
Being absolutely serious, it is an easy check. Start engine, let idle for a minute or two. Shut down and check oil right away at a casual pace. The amount of change from cold oil to expanded hot oil is almost nil.
The people that screw up checking oil level either never run the engine prior to checking and keep adding oil, or they can not see the level on the dipstick and keep dumping oil in.
As I mentioned it is very easy to check.
Now if you want to know what is difficult to check, try and get a good look at the coolant level on the 2014 to 2019 Spyder RT series. Now that is a bother.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
This I can tell you...Last evening I warmed up my 2014 RTS and then I removed both drain plugs and left it up on the lift overnight,,,Today I changed the oil filter and the HCM FILTER...Installed all new o-rings and sealing washers...I put 5.2 quarts (5 qts. 6 oz.) of Amsoil...Started it up and ran until fans cycled off and on 3 times...CHECK THE OIL WITHIN 2 MINUTES OR SO AND IT WAS RIGHT ON THE FULL MARK ON THE DIP STICK...larryd
Wildrice
New member
My 2015 F3's takes the full 6 qts. I've checked it several ways including within 2 min after turning it off while some oil my be in the oil sump. Not a problem to me--F3's runs great at 7K miles--I had 2 yrs of health issues---prostate radiation --back surgery thus 7K in 3 yrs mostly short trips. 118 mph top on speedo prior to Stage 2 upgrade & it was still climbing until traffic forced me to back off.
merlot
Member
I think I'm going to discount the 5.2 litres recommended for the 2019 only, and for the next oil change I'll be adding 5 litres.
This is a useful amount here in Aust, as most oil bottles are either 4 litres or 5 litres; we don't usually see gallons or quarts.
I just need to use up the remaining T6 oil I have - I bought around 30 gallons when I was working and these jugs come in 3.7 litre quantities, or 1 gallon. :yikes:
Russ
This is a useful amount here in Aust, as most oil bottles are either 4 litres or 5 litres; we don't usually see gallons or quarts.
I just need to use up the remaining T6 oil I have - I bought around 30 gallons when I was working and these jugs come in 3.7 litre quantities, or 1 gallon. :yikes:
Russ
BajaRon
Well-known member
Interesting. This falls right in line with the capacity chart I have. And yet, I have customers who do the same thing you did and end up short. There must be a logical pattern to all of this. But so far, I do not know who to tell what. It is more than a bit frustrating. But it is better to under fill than to overfill. So I stick with these smaller volume numbers. The large majority of my customers seem to be good with these amounts. A much smaller number tell me that these amounts do not get them to the full mark.
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EdMat
Well-known member
I can't believe it's April 1st and I'm not going to take advantage of this post. ;-)
All joking aside, measure the whole thing, bottom of cap to tip, etc. ???
Gwolf
Well-known member
There are different part numbers for some of the dipstick tubes. Just measuring the dipstick means nothing if the tube it goes in is also a different length.
Assembly line mixed the wrong sticks with the wrong tubes???????? Noooo, that could never happen.
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