Baveux, there's already quite a lot of info & discussion on the Forum about all of this,
IF you do some searching and reading; and
you should ALWAYS do a Search First, and then
have a bit of a read of what's been posted already, BEFORE starting a new thread - at the very least, you'll most likely gain some insight into the subject, if your questions aren't answered entirely! :lecturef_smilie:
That said, here's another take-away that you should bear in mind, altho this one is in respect to all your reading of BRP's Glovebox manuals or Owner Guides - you need to realise that they are a hotchpotch amalgam of cut-and-paste passages/sections from previous manuals in a variety of languages all dumped together in a heap & shaken until they
might look a little like a manual; then they're translated by an inept language BOT into what it thinks is the appropriate language; they are
NOT proof-read well, if at all, by any person with even the most basic understanding of any of the languages concerned, let alone the systems/machines the 'manual' is supposedly about; and despite years of consumer complaints, they are
STILL basically very
UN-reliable sources of information about
your Spyder/Ryker or any other BRP/Can-Am product! :banghead:
Case in point - the fuel tank capacity... There is
NO RESERVE built into any Spyder fuel tanks, but all the V-Twin powered Spyders do have a 22 odd litre fuel tank capacity (I can't remember the decimal extras!
), of which no more than 20 litres are safely 'usable' and the remainder
SHOULD NOT be treated as a 'Reserve' except in dire circumstances (see later comments below!) - while the 1330 powered Spyders all have 26 odd litre tank capacity, of which no more than 24 litres are safely usable, with the same caveat as for the smaller tanks above! And that difference is likely where the 'discrepancy' you're complaining about in your manual crept in - it's simply a case of a dodgy 'cut-&-paste' job on a previous version of the manual, no matter that the info has since changed, resulting in the wrong info being given for a different model, and that only happens after poor or no proof reading - but it's by no means the
ONLY discrepancy like that!! There's
MANY MORE similar errors, not just to do with the oil capacity or the fuel capacity either!! :bdh:
So you should always treat anything you read in these manuals as being '
possibly somewhere in the ball-park for at least one Spyder/Ryker model at some stage in the history of Can-Am, but not all that likely to be specifically accurate for your particular machine!' :cus: Which means
you REALLY should NOT be surprised at all if there are discrepancies &/or direct contradictions about anything, even in the same manual - don't even waste your time &/or any energy being astonished, it's something those of us who've been dealing with these things for a decade or more have come to realise is to be expected, and is quite unlikely to changed! So as mentioned earlier, despite years if not decades of complaints from end-users, they are simply what we've got, and they cannot be relied upon to be accurate! :lecturef_smilie:
As for your fuel gauge & it's inaccuracy - Yes, it's inaccurate, just like most other Can-Am gauges, but in this case, the thing you need to remember about
ALL modern fuel gauges is that they are designed to stop you from damaging things through your ignorance! nojoke
Most Modern Fuel Injected ICEngines
NEED to
maintain a MINUMUM of about 2-4 litres of fuel in their fuel tank to properly lubricate and cool the fuel pump & injection system or the lack of fuel
WILL start the destruction process on your fuel tank's immersed fuel pump & possibly also the injection system too!! You might not notice the damage caused instantly, but once you've run the fuel level lower than that necessary to properly cool & lubricate the fuel pump & injector system, some cumulative & irreversible damage will have occurred, albeit likely microscopically initially; that initial damage will progressively expand & increase over time; and if it's let run for long enough, it will be terminal to, at the very least, the fuel pump, if not other parts of the injection system and possibly even the engine itself! :shocked:
So as mentioned by others, don't rely on the notoriously inaccurate fuel gauge - it might be a reasonable enough 'best guess' guide occasionally; but for general use, you will be better off in the long run using your trip meter and working out roughly how far you can go on a tank full of gas, then trying to never exceed whatever distance you deem is safe given the circumstances! Altho it might also pay to remember that, despite their inaccuracies, the fuel gauge and the low fuel warning light are
NOT there to stop you 'running out of gas' per se, but instead,
they are there to at least in part try and protect you from running the gas tank TOO LOW in order to protect the fuel pump and injection system! :lecturef_smilie:
