Actually, Saturday the 12th.
Hit the rear of an SUV in stop and go traffic with my right front wheel. Spent 12 hours in the local ER undergoing tests and awaiting information. Possibly totaled due to age of the bike and the fact that the front wheel took the brunt of the impact; it is knocked back about an inch or so. Front body panels no longer line up. Broken ribs and strained right wrist. Still awaiting Allstate's evaluation on the damage. Not a happy camper right now. .....
Bugga!! Glad
that's all
you copped tho! I hope you aren't in too much pain and that you get over any you
are in fairly quickly...
ray:
ray:
I know from personal experience how painful broken ribs can be; but hang in there, chances are your wrist & ribs'll only hurt for 8-10 weeks, then they won't! :thumbup:
As for the Spyder, that can almost certainly be fixed - whether or not it's a cost-effective thing to do is up to you & the insurance company to work out. :dontknow:
However, if your local Motor Vehicle Insurance Industry is anything like ours here in Oz (and at least in this, I'm fairly sure it
IS) just remember that
you don't necessarily HAVE to take their initial offer as the be all & end all of things and you have no choice but to take it or take the loss!! :cus:
Most of the time, MV Insurance companies are reasonably close on their valuations etc, but I've found that often, with things like 'Special Edition' vehicles &/or less common vehicles (like our Spyders) they can be waaayyy off in write-off valuations &/or repair costs; usually because they either haven't come across the particular vehicle too often before, or because they
ONLY got repair quotes from the manufacturer &/or the manufacturer's dealers!! If you don't like whatever they suggest &/or offer, and you have any valid reasons to suggest they've tried to cheap out on you (see those reasons mentioned earlier/above!
) you
are allowed to refuse their suggestion/offer & get them to have a look at it again! I've done this myself for other 'Special' vehicles, and I've suggested doing just this to a few local Spyder owners who were told their Spyders were clearly write-offs and yet only worth a small fraction of what it'd cost to replace them, getting a better result &/or pay-out figure with some fairly significant success! :thumbup:
If the repair doesn't look too hard &/or the repair cost or write off value doesn't look good to you, see if you can get some better repair quotes from a non-dealer Spyder Tech &/or more realistic replacement valuations from the non-dealer market. I've ended up with quite a bit more in the way of payout for a written-off vehicle, and the local Spyder Owners I discussed this with have either also ended up much better pay-out for the write-off or getting their Spyder repaired by a non-dealer Spyder Specialist for a lot less than the dealers wanted, thereby avoiding the write-off - and they probably got a better repair job done too!! But the point is, you can often end up better off than you would've been if you look into it a bit more/argue a bit rather than simply just taking the Insurance Co's first offer without said investigation/argument!! :lecturef_smilie:
So do your homework before accepting a less-than-ideal Insurance Co decision &/or valuation/repair cost!! :2thumbs:
And here's to getting your knees back in the breeze soon too! :cheers:
A ryde this weekend should cook off the wrap. The 10 minutes if idling for the ECU to adjust the fueling and new back pressure will be done after I lower the:spyder2
ff the jack stands.
