• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What did you do to your Spyder today?

I still want one, but the Big Blue Rep told me they do t have one yet that fits my 22 F3S :-( I bought the Harbor freight blue aluminum lift, but I really don't like it. I figured the undercarriage on a F3 are all the same, but I guess not.

I was surprised when I read that as well elsewhere. The support works on the F3T & Limited but not the S? Doesn’t make sense to me either but I guess they are different enough that the support won’t work across all F3 models.
 
Finally installed the rear rack that I’d gotten in May on my 2017 RTL — in preparation for an upcoming 10-day 2-up ryde that might require summer, fall, and wet gear.

The rack snags on the antenna (OEM, I think), so I’m trying to figure out how to remove it (I never use the radio). None of the posts or YT videos I’ve seen so far are helping. It ‘should’ be a simple left turn with the vice grips.

Guess I’ll try again tomorrow with a bigger pair.
Of pliers…
 
Finally installed the rear rack that I’d gotten in May on my 2017 RTL — in preparation for an upcoming 10-day 2-up ryde that might require summer, fall, and wet gear.

The rack snags on the antenna (OEM, I think), so I’m trying to figure out how to remove it (I never use the radio). None of the posts or YT videos I’ve seen so far are helping. It ‘should’ be a simple left turn with the vice grips.

Guess I’ll try again tomorrow with a bigger pair.
Of pliers…

There's almost certainly a LOT of locktite on the thread of that antenna, so it might pay you to get a little gas jet/bbq lighter wand or similar so you can reach in there and heat the brass base of the antenna a bit in order to loosen the locktite before having another go with the (bigger) pair of pliers! :lecturef_smilie:

I have a Chef's Blow-torch that does the job very well, and a '50mm Deep' x 7mm socket that I've reamed out the neck of so that it's gat a hole thru the guts that's juuust wide enough to let it drop over the tip on the 3' long whip antenna & slide down onto the 'already heated/locktite released' nut - the top outer edge of that socket has a hex collar that sticks up above the tupperware so that I can grab it with a spanner or pliers and make the removal job even easier! ;) But if I don't do the 'heating' bit first.... :gaah: THAT's the thing what makes it do-able! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:
 
Thanks Peter! This antenna has a square sort-of brass coloured square mount that is maybe 10-12 mm wide, so the 7mm socket or open-ended wrench solution didn't work for me.

The lower 12 cm of the antenna has a plastic shroud right to the base (under the outer cover that I'd already removed). With little room to work because of the tupperware I'm not wanting to try heating it. So, if I cut off the shroud, will the 7mm nut be there for me to try attacking? In anticipation, I just sprayed some WD-40 to try and soften the locktite -- which, given that it's almost 10pm, is a shot in the dark - after a cup of Aussie wine for me.
 
Thanks Peter! This antenna has a square sort-of brass coloured square mount that is maybe 10-12 mm wide, so the 7mm socket or open-ended wrench solution didn't work for me.

The lower 12 cm of the antenna has a plastic shroud right to the base (under the outer cover that I'd already removed). With little room to work because of the tupperware I'm not wanting to try heating it. So, if I cut off the shroud, will the 7mm nut be there for me to try attacking? In anticipation, I just sprayed some WD-40 to try and soften the locktite -- which, given that it's almost 10pm, is a shot in the dark - after a cup of Aussie wine for me.

It's been a bit of a while since I've pulled an antenna, so I can't say for sure, but now that you mention it, after pulling the black rubber boot off, I do recall cutting a short black plastic shroud thingy (maybe 30-40mm of stuff that's similar to thick heat shrink??) off the base of the stick before applying heat to the metal; and I did 'remove' a few antennae (maybe even one or two without destroying them! :p I can tell you how to do that REALLY easily if you want?! :rolleyes: ) before I 'modified' my 7mm Deep Socket to slip over the antenna tip, so the 7mm bit must've been there on enough of them to warrant it?! :dontknow:

Is your antenna OEM? From those I've seen here in Oz, I reckon that OEM whip antenna is a bit fragile just at the base where the stick bit comes out of the metal base, and I have come across quite a few older Spyders that'd had their original OEM antennae replaced with a variety of alternatives.... some were simply replacements; others were a bit 'dodgied up' to try and make them work! But all the OEM antennae I've seen/removed had scads of locktite; and even on those with a/mkt replacements, there was evidence of a LOT of trouble getting them off if that's been tried without adding heat! But still, are you planning on using the antenna you're taking off ever again?? If not, who really cares if IT gets a bit hot &/or heat compromised?? So I'd suggest it's better to ruin the 'no longer required' antenna by heating it up a bit than it is to damage the surrounding tupperware while trying to get the antenna off without applying any heat to soften up the locktite! :banghead:

Over to you! :cheers:
 
IMG_6297.jpg

Thanks Peter -- I've got the antenna to twist off using a large pair of channel lock pliers. No heating was required.

I didn't bother removing the piece that held the antenna, and will re-use the OEM boot with a cap glued into it to cover the hole in the tupperware.

On to the next project!
:cheers:
 
Adjusted my TricLED headlights. Used both spacers to raise it up since they were aiming too low without any spacers. This morning was my first time riding in the dark since buying it. I did break one of the tabs in the left side panel air scoop where the foglight covers screw in (I’m using the TricLED foglight covers). Just looked up the part and looks like it’s nearly $200 for the replacement air scoop. I’ll probably order it eventually but it doesn’t seem to be affecting the overall assembly.
 
Did a wash & wax and went out for a long ride to have lunch on the Susquehanna River at the Blue Rock Road boat ramp. Long trip but it was worth it.

Nice long ride on some back roads.
 

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Nice pictures of your F3. I dig the truck horn

Thanks, that's the motohorn that lamonster sells. It's an attention getter. Saved my hyde on Rt. 95 just north of savannah when some idiot started dozing at the wheel and started drifting over in my lane.

I hit the horn and the guy jumped about 6 inches off of his seat and over corrected onto the right shoulder but didn't lose it luckily.
 
We had the brake switch (recall) on both RT's taken care of this morning @ Lifestyles Honda in Mt. Vernon, WA. Last night I replaced the front rotors and pads on my RT, the right side rotor was warped and the backing plates on the pads were discolored. It brakes much smoother now, although I can still feel a slight surge when right before I come to a complete stop... rear rotor/pads next?
 
Was hoping the new drive belt came before the weekend, but no luck ! So I just gave the black plastic a little toutch up. Belt better be here Monday :gaah:
 
Took the RTL out for a morning ride up the New Jersey side of the Delaware River. On the trip we were looking for a couple of covered bridges. The Green Sargeant Covered Bridge was closed for repair and the Knecht's Covered Bridge has been replaced with a modern bridge. We saw a Harley trike in a parking lot and a pre-2020 Cam Am going in the opposite direction. The Harley had old school hot rod pinstriping, it looked pretty cool. 97 miles and 3 hours of riding time.
 
Went for another mornings ride along the Delaware river. Very pretty ride. Saw a group of riders with 6 or 7 Can Am bikes heading east on the George Washington Memorial Highway heading towards the Washington's Crossing Bridge.
We rode just over a 100 miles today and saw the odometer log the bike's first 1000 miles. Only two problems with the bike so far. First was the ride height sensors/system needed to be calibrated, fixed by the dealer on the first try. Second is the nuisance brake fault C0042, we have a service apt scheduled for this week. Averaging 36.9 mpg (US).
 
Added a Ring Terminal Assembly in the Frunk. Using it to plug-in battery tender when parked and also a USB adapter to charge phone while cruising.

TQKVpfB.jpg
 
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