You probably already have the basic procedures worked out. I will just post a few comments that might help. I never use ramps for anything, because the flat concrete floor in my shop will just let them slide unless they are secured. I jack anything that I am working on up, then sometimes push the ramps I have under the tires and let it back down on them. Many times, I push the ramps under the tires backwards, depending on the job, to allow more working room. I have 2 adjustable lift floor jacks with extensions long enough to work on a tall truck. With the extension removed, the floor jacks will roll under most any front end. Once the front is lifted, jack stands go under it. For the rear of the Spyder, I use a scissor jack with extensions on top of the flat plate to catch the frame, and I avoid mashing any wiring or parts that hang below the frame rails. Jacking it up like that allows plenty of room to slide a full-size drain pan under the bike. My scissor jack has a long 3/8 socket pinned to the jacking bolt and will run up and down with the electric impact. I have also cut out larger holes in the plastic under the case. Maybe the plastic is to keep the hot engine parts from contacting dry grass, or maybe it is just to collect mud and road grime, between the plastic and the case.
Got one of the blank pages in the back of the manual with a list of plug sizes and a few notes of what to put on the floor in reach before I get my ancient self down there to do the job. I do not use the OEM O-rings to seal the plugs. I use the upper O-rings where needed, but the lower O-rings where the plugs contact the case are sealed off with the sandwich type fiber washers used by almost all cars for the oil drain plugs. The right size is available for both the plugs on the Spyder, and you can get dozens of them for a few bucks. They are more dependable than the little O-rings and won't get squeezed out of the recess or pinched. Easy to find on the web and most discount auto places have them. The fiber washers are cheap enough to just toss them every time and put new ones on. Like many who already replied, I do not torque the plugs, just snug them with a shorty rachet. If it leaks at all, there will be evidence on the clean concrete under the parking spot. Never had one leak after many oil changes.
First oil change might take a half hour, but after the first one, maybe 15 to 20 minutes time of actual working on it, not including time to just let it drain with the plug out while you go do something else or nothing at all. Also, keep track of exactly how much oil it takes to refill after a complete oil and filter change. Write that amount down in the page of the manual with your other notes. I have mine figured to bring the oil level to about 3/4 way between the low oil mark and the full mark on the dipstick. It is not full quarts and I measure the last partial quart going in with a kitchen measuring cup. If you know how much goes back in, you don't need to keep checking the oil as you refill to get it right where you want it. Just put the required amount in and check it next time you ride. It will be right where you want it, when checking using the correct procedure for dry sump.
I also ignore the oil change recommendations in the manual and change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles like I have always done for 50 years or more on bikes. I keep cases of the proper oil and filters on a high shelf in the shop. No need to go hunting through local stores for them. Oil and filters are cheap, new engines are not. Going less than recommended miles between changes can only help, especially in very warm area where the bikes are run summer and winter, in temperatures near 100 F in summer.
The more times you change the oil, the easier it will become, like anything else you do. Practice makes perfect.
hyea: :roflblack: :roflblack: :2thumbs:
