Trying to decide if I want to start doing my own oil changes - what should I budget?

[Allen42]

NOTE: please do not turn this into a "which oil is best" thread ... there's plenty of those that I have read.


My local dealer charges $250 for the BRP brand oil change, which I see is a lot lower than some dealers. I think that works out to about $150 for the BRP kit, and $100 labor.

I'm trying to figure out if I want to take this over, and how far out the ROI would be, assuming I need to buy things.

Let's pretend I have NOTHING (which isn't true... I think I still have my car oil drain pan, jack stands, floor jack, and of course most regular tools.)

Here's my current thoughts and analysis:

I will need to get started:

A of set ramps, preferably with 8" lift. $75 https://a.co/d/igJ5yaY
Lamonster's tool kit: $37
Lamonster's magnetic drain plug (not necessary, but nice to have I think): $18
A torque wrench for proper torque? $25-$50
A longer breaker bar to get off the OEM stubborn plug(s). $20-$25

Then, for each change, I could buy Lamonster's kit: $120/ pop
Or it looks like I might be able to source oil from Walmart, etc. and save another $20-$40 per change.
Plus, my local oil change places charge a disposal fee to take them my used oil. (Let's assume $20)

So, I think for an approximate $200 initial investment, I could save a minimum of $110 per change?

And have the fun and satisfaction of knowing I did it myself.

Help me out... did I forget something? Is my math off? What is y'all's expert advice?

-Allen

 

[BajaRon]

I very much encourage anyone who thinks they'd like to do this for themselves to do so. You can get a better lubricant in your machine and do it all for less.

Suggestions.

Do not use a torque wrench on your drain plugs. Just a moderate snug fit with a 3/8" snubby or more carefully, with a standard 3/8" ratchet is more than enough. I've seen many stripped threads but zero drain plugs leak or fall out. Torque wrenches give you no feel at all. If they are not calibrated correctly, you'll never know it unless you get them tested. For wheel lug nuts, head bolts, etc., by all means. But I don't like them for more fragile items like drain plugs.

You should never need a breaker bar to remove a drain plug. If it is a stock drain plug, the machined recess for the Torx or Hex bit won't take the additional force anyway. If it seems overly tight (very common with dealer serviced machines) strike the head of the bolt several times and try again. This may help you get the drain plug out without undue force. From then on, with you tightening them as they should be tightened, they will come out without issue.

Our trash collection centers will take used oil for free. I guess that depends on your location. $20.00 for this is highway robbery!​

I have a 2008 Spyder with the OEM drain plugs still installed. They work GREAT! But I don't Gorilla Tighten them.

Good luck on your venture into the maintenance world! You're right about saving money, self satisfaction, learning more about the machine, and probably doing a better job to boot!

 

[ARtraveler]

For those who are mechanically inclined, diy oil changes can be a plus. You will save money over the long run. Shop labor on Spyders is very high. Yes, your dealer is lower than most, I have seen them $350 and up.

 

[DGoebel]

I change oil on my '13 RTL and '18 RTL buying the Oil filter kit from BajaRon (I get a LOT of other stuff from LamonsterGarage and like to split my support).
BajaRon HiFlo 556 - SE6/SM6 Oil Filter Kit w/ Seals - Can-Am Spyder 1330 Rotax - $15.95
And have used Castrol purchased from Amazon - Castrol Power1 4T 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6 ($55)
Approx $70 annual for those parts, more if I'm changing the HCM Filter (but less often) $129.00

I only use a Pittsburgh Tools ATV lift, basic tools, youtube videos, and recycle my used oil at AutoZone (free)
or WalMart (free). Total out of pocket expense is $70 each year, $200 each 9300 miles with HCM filter. (Get that price from your Dealer).
I don't count the tool costs though, since I regularly use most of the tools needed for my car, lawn mower, and all other maintenance
on my Spyder that I'm more than capable of doing. Dealer now only gets my Spyder for Rear Tire changes, and major service
interval checkups etc. (where I decline their oil change request).

 

[Woodaddict]

biggee... for NOT stripping out your drain plugs. They are NOT perpendicular to floor. Push the T45 or 6mm hex fully into recess of fitting on plug. You will see that they follow the case angle, not WHAT YOU THINK should be perpendicular to floor.

 

[Allen42]

I change oil on my '13 RTL and '18 RTL buying the Oil filter kit from BajaRon (I get a LOT of other stuff from LamonsterGarage and like to split my support).
BajaRon HiFlo 556 - SE6/SM6 Oil Filter Kit w/ Seals - Can-Am Spyder 1330 Rotax - $15.95
And have used Castrol purchased from Amazon - Castrol Power1 4T 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6 ($55)
Approx $70 annual for those parts, more if I'm changing the HCM Filter (but less often) $129.00

I only use a Pittsburgh Tools ATV lift, basic tools, youtube videos, and recycle my used oil at AutoZone (free)
or WalMart (free). Total out of pocket expense is $70 each year, $200 each 9300 miles with HCM filter. (Get that price from your Dealer).
I don't count the tool costs though, since I regularly use most of the tools needed for my car, lawn mower, and all other maintenance
on my Spyder that I'm more than capable of doing. Dealer now only gets my Spyder for Rear Tire changes, and major service
interval checkups etc. (where I decline their oil change request).

Awesome stuff in there, thanks! I've always run my oil to the local oil change shop on the corner. (Stopped two cars ago though.) I will check into autozone. Since I'm in Texas, I think I'm going with 10W-40 or even 15W-40, but the rest of this plan looks great. I didn't know Ron also sold kits, and will probably support him, as much help as he has given me here, he deserves it.

After looking at Ron's site, now I need to figure out if I want to change to the K&N filters.... there's always something more to learn!

 

[safecracker]

The oil filter wrench size is 36mm. Here is a link for the sockets, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ford+36+mm+socket. Bruce

 

[Allen42]

The oil filter wrench size is 36mm. Here is a link for the sockets, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ford+36+mm+socket. Bruce

Thanks!

 

[JayBros]

While I changed my OEM drain plugs, T45 Torx and 6mm Allen as Woodaddict mentioned, for hex head plugs, both with magnets, it is not mandatory. If you choose to retain the OEM plugs, be aware that the threads on the T45 crankcase plug are extremely sharp. Because of that sharpness I wrapped a bit of painters tape on the threads when changing the O-rings.

While the victim in this link is a 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw, the video has some good pointers in it.

In my area all auto parts stores recycle used motor oil at no charge. Good luck!

 

[Allen42]

Here's my shopping list... need to go verify I didn't get rid of my oil pan during the last garage sale, and that it holds 6 qts.

 

[Allen42]

If you choose to retain the OEM plugs, be aware that the threads on the T45 crankcase plug are extremely sharp. Because of that sharpness I wrapped a bit of painters tape on the threads when changing the O-rings.

In my area all auto parts stores recycle used motor oil at no charge. Good luck!

Thanks! I'm going to get BajaRon's kit for this first one, which includes replacement magnetic plugs.

 

[Woodaddict]

The oil filter wrench size is 36mm. Here is a link for the sockets, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ford+36+mm+socket. Bruce

A 36 mm socket can double duty for the rear axle. Watch what quality you get for 167 FT LBS of torque on that sucker - you have listed a 3/8 drive. I would get 1/2 drive 6-sided hex for tough duty. Then you could start asking us about rear tire changes!!! :yes: :yes: :clap:

 

[Allen42]

A 36 mm socket can double duty for the rear axle. Watch what quality you get for 167 FT LBS of torque on that sucker - you have listed a 3/8 drive. I would get 1/2 drive 6-sided hex for tough duty. Then you could start asking us about rear tire changes!!! :yes: :yes: :clap:

I had already done a thread on belt tension, and decided I was already within spec, and that job was best left to the pros, lol. While this one does seem scary cheap, it gets very good reviews all around, including some that mention they have used for axle nut removal (if I ever go that far.)

 

[BajaRon]

I agree with Woodaddict, that you might want to go 1/2" drive, 6 pt. But if you stick with the 3/8" socket. You might want to add a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter for jobs that require more leverage. Just make sure you go the right direction with the connections.

 

[Allen42]

I agree with Woodaddict, that you might want to go 1/2" drive, 6 pt. But if you stick with the 3/8" socket. You might want to add a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter for jobs that require more leverage. Just make sure you go the right direction with the connections.

Thanks! I have adapters already. You should have seen an order for the full hi flow oil change kit come through!

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks! I have adapters already. You should have seen an order for the full hi flow oil change kit come through!

Truth is, I have minions these days. Way too much for one guy to handle for sure. Love my minions! They are AWESOME!

 

[Allen42]

Truth is, I have minions these days. Way too much for one guy to handle for sure. Love my minions! They are AWESOME!

He's not exactly a minion, but I met Daniel at SpyderPops during the Hot Springs rally. He did quite a bit of work on my bike. He's a fantastic guy!

 

[BajaRon]

He's not exactly a minion, but I met Daniel at SpyderPops during the Hot Springs rally. He did quite a bit of work on my bike. He's a fantastic guy!

Agreed. They are not minions. But we kid each other about it. I have special people working as a team. It's more like family than a job. We each appreciate all of our customers. They are special people too.

 

[Allen42]

I waited until this morning (Prime day) to buy the stuff, and saved another $20+ due to sales. FWIW, Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6 is on sale for $50 today.

https://a.co/d/bXOdCn4

 

[blacklightning]

I am on my 6th spyder and did my first oil change about 3 months ago. My last paid oil change was $400 at my local dealership. Prior to that it was always $262 and I was happy with that. When they went over $400, I was done. The oil change was very easy. I used a stubby 3/8" ratchet in order to not overtighten the drain plugs. Advance Auto takes recycle oil for free. As for using ramps or a jack, it was not necessary. I pulled each tire up on a 2x6 and it was high enough, using a low profile oil drain pain that I sourced from the Dollar Tree.