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Trying to decide if I want to start doing my own oil changes - what should I budget?

I'd think the panels would also provide a bit of protection for debris that is tossed up. I just pulled the left side panel when changing my oil. One of the push pins was a bit of a PIA to get back into place when re-installing. I can see both sides tho....

Possibly.But I've been running my 2008 for over 35,000 miles without the splash panels. None of the motorcycles I've owned over the years had splash panels. Never an issue.
 
Possibly.But I've been running my 2008 for over 35,000 miles without the splash panels. None of the motorcycles I've owned over the years had splash panels. Never an issue.


I have never owned any other motorcycle with a plastic guard under the engine either.

But then, every other motorcycle I have ever owned had a wheel and tire directly in front of the engine too. Most of them, the engine was much wider than the wheel and tire in front of it, but when you are avoiding road debris with only one front wheel, you won't try to straddle any of it. So far (5 years), no problems with cutting most of the plastic below the drain plugs away, and now it does not collect as much road grime. The plugs are much easier to see and get a socket on.
 
Yep, do it yourself as much as you can find the time to do so. My dealer here was at $400 for an oil change 3 years ago and I just couldn't stand it.

You read all the oil stuff of course. I've used Lamonster before also. I'm sure I was just paranoid, but after a couple of oil changes using it, I noticed my SE6 auto slipped a little at takeoff and second. This may just be age and abuse, but I went back to getting the BRP kits with all the O-rings etc. That's the big thing, take note of which one goes on which, replace them as you take them off the individual plug so that you don't chance putting the wrong rings on. I've had kits come without all the O-rings and had to re-use the originals with no problems.

There was a mechanic out of a Vancouver WA dealership who had excellent videos, and showed tips like adding paper towels in the lower panels to the rear of the plugs to help sop up the oil as it will get in there, then leak bit by bit, and scare the crap out of you! Sop it up as you go and clean up after. The cannister filter on the right, dump a little fresh oil in there to help get the pump primed, and the filter pre-lubed of course. It's a dry sump system so it should pick up oil quickly anyway. Thats it!

The biggest thing is getting the tools and it up off the ground so you can get to things. I jack the front A-arms, put jack stands under those, and put the single car ramp under the back wheel after I jack up the back by putting the jack pad under the aft swing arm through bolt - of course, with a block of wood or a hard plastic pad. Go Slow take her easy and make it safe to be under!
 
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