Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[SpyderAnn01]

You are correct only the F3 and 20 RT have regular, easily removable bars. It’s a big project on your RT. Good luck!

 

[MONK]

Thanks for the clarification/confirmation, SpyderAnn01. There were a few posts up there ^^^ that suggested removing the "good" bolts, drilling the head of the "bad" one and removing the bars. I just wanted to eliminate that line of thinking before I did something (else) dumb.

 

[PMK]

If it were me, and obviously I am not nearby to actually see how bad the fastener head has become, yes, heat can help.

But this can work also. Use coarse grit lapping compound into the hex opening. Not a lot, simply a thin film as needed applied with a Q Tip. Reinsert a good quality 7mm Allen socket, seat it fully with a couple light taps, then install the breaker bar, wiggle a couple times then reseat the Allen socket. Ideally the compound adds grip and tightens the fit allowing tne bolt to remove at this point.

 

[imfleck]

I too have used an impact driver and allen key socket.

Me too! Me too! Seriously, it was the ONLY way I was able to get those bolts out. Bonus: You can really get all of your frustrations out by pounding the living c#$p out of it!

 

[PinkRosePetal]

If you use a manual impact driver, remember you're pounding the top of the steering too! :yikes:


I'll be interested to know whether you get anywhere with the heat because the bolt is stainless steel and it is a very poor heat conductor. The bolt head is hard fast against the metal of the bars and they are aluminium which is a very good heat conductor. I bet you heat the bars considerably more than the bolt thread.

PMK's grinding past idea is a good one.

 

[Mazo EMS2]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^ right here!!! Getting a punch in the recess of the bolt head and a couple good whacks often times is enough. Another option is to try to reshape the head of the bolt with said punch. In other words tap on the upper part of the bolt head to reshape the recesses portion so that the allen wrench fits tightly again. Heat and a couple of good strikes with a hammer should break it free as you turn it at the same time.

 

[Joel The Biker]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

 

[PMK]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

Was toying that for this situation, the Torx could be good back up plan if the grinding compound failed to grip. Either way or more correctly, something needs to work to get this resolved.

 

[Curlytops]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

 

[94gnatsum]

I suggest, like above, get a can of PB Blast(best thing since sliced bread). Try to spray around head and bolt. Like said previously, take a punch and whack the head a few times. Wait a few minutes and repeat. Repeat the process 5 or 6 times. Then wait. A hour or so should do. If you have and impact to use, whatever you use, start putting even sustained pressure keeping close eye on the head. If you have someone to help, have them tap on the end while applying pressure. This should work. I would try this before adding heat to locations I can't see.

 

[PMK]

Those persons suggesting penetrating oils should understand that the precured thread locker on the bolts also seals the threads to prevent penetrant from entering.

As for striking the bolt head, again, with thread lock compound they use, there is resistance unwinding the bolt, even after broken free.

Mr Monk, all the best with it, plenty of suggestions, based on you having limited tools, maybe simply best to take it to the dealer.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

And, the bolt head is hard against the bars, exactly how is the penetrating oil going to get by the head and then get a few inches further down the bolt to the threads?

Also, remember if you're pounding the bolt you're also pounding the top of a plastic steering column bearing!

Best look at the exploded diagram to see what is really taking the abuse.

 

[JayBros]

I agree with PMK, since it's a new bike, get it to the dealer and let them make the best of a tough situation. That precured thread locker is a:cus: to unscrew even when the locking is initially broken.

 

[troop]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

Once it happens, I'd also be determined to correct.

 

[MONK]

I'm going to buy an battery power impact wrench tomorrow as well as another (good) 7mm hex and a couple good torx (T40 and T45) bits. I'm hoping all of that will break the bolt free. I'll also pick up one of those little torches. If all of that doesn't work, I'll call the dealer although I'm not sure when I'll be able to get down there between work and the stay-at-home stuff.

I really appreciate the suggestions, all. Either it's fixed by this time tomorrow or it's not. I'll let everyone know.

 

[RICZ]

Some battery powered impact drivers have low torque ratings. If you are going to buy one, check the torque.

 

[Joel The Biker]

If you put the new 7mm socket on the bolt, it can be used to direct the heat from your mini torch to the bolt. Aim the torch into the socket where the ratchet would attach. I think you will be amazed how well that will work. We use YELLOW threadlock at work and a little heat makes it almost like its not even there. Just dont get it too hot.

 

[MONK]

I've just spent the last hour on this bit**. I can't get the bolt to move and now I've gotten the inside of that bolt head nice and round. I've tried heat, tapping w/a hammer, impact driver, everything. I'm done. I can't even imagine what the shop will charge @ $100/hr to remove it. THIS is how most of my projects turn out. It should be illegal for me to handle tools. I think I'll sell this and buy a convertible. Seriously.

 

[RICZ]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

 

[MONK]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

With all due respect, sir, if an impact gun won't turn the bolt, I don't see how a punch will do the same. I've tried heat. I spent about $200 today in new tools, sockets, torches, etc and have nothing to show for it except frustration. I can't do this. I'm sure someone w/more talent, better tools, a garage, etc can remove the bolt. I can't. I'm not spending any more money on more tools just to find that it doesn't work, either. I'll get more frustrated when it doesn't. It'll be up for sale shortly.

I appreciate everyones help. I really do. I just don't have the talent, tools or whatever to get the job done. The next owner may have all of the above and get a screaming deal on a very low mile, basically new 2018 RT Limited.