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Sprocket Recall - What's Wrong With BRP's Logistics?

According to Shawn Smoak an experienced Spyder tech and long time youtuber, he states the only one to use is Loctite 609 in the US.
 
Its not aluminum. Its cast iron and its the same casting as the prior sprocket, just machined differently to accept the spacer behind it. Metallurgy has not changed.

……and a “Service Manager” doesn’t know this, James?:yikes:
It’s a real worry. It would be ok to say “sorry, I really don’t know”, but to just make something up hints at a larger, underlying issue at that dealership. :thumbup:

Pete
 
According to Shawn Smoak an experienced Spyder tech and long time youtuber, he states the only one to use is Loctite 609 in the US.

Yes, but the confusion is that there are some very experienced Spyder techs and engineers on this forum, with just as much, or more, experience than Shawn, who have been using Loctite 648 to fix the issue successfully for years, TC. ;) …….and BRP engineers have been known to slip up in the past, on the odd occasion or two :thumbup:.They sometimes confuse “activity” with real “progress”.

I know who I would trust to get the job done right ;) :thumbup:

Pete
 
……and a “Service Manager” doesn’t know this, James?:yikes:
It’s a real worry. It would be ok to say “sorry, I really don’t know”, but to just make something up hints at a larger, underlying issue at that dealership. :thumbup:

Pete

Doesn't surprise me at all. That is why I qualified the statement with " Don't know if this is accurate."

When I went down to pick the F3-S up at the dealership, they filled out a lot of papers. Then the one in the sales office told me I needed to bring it back for an oil change and valve adjustment at 3,000 miles. I asked him to explain their procedure for adjusting hydraulic lifters. He told me I had to talk to the service department about that. I took it home and never took it back there for anything. I been doing all the service work myself.
 
I saw in his recent video, that using Loctite 609 only requires 10 minutes to set.

Thats the fixture time cure time is 24hrs.
609 10 minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 2290psi shear strength.
603 10minute fixture time 72 hour cure time 3260psi shear strength.
648 3minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 3900psi shear strength.

So we're glueing together a smaller surface area of splines because we're adding a washer (that no one knows what for) to an unchanged, metallurgy wise, sprocket in an effort to prevent an unknown number of failures 7 years after the fact and after a notification time of 7 months still can't say when the part will be available even though some have been fitted and are out the door and the only official information we can gather is from stealers that are clueless and a tech that makes money from Youtube posts that refuses to answer questions because BRP has scolded him for talking out of class .
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

FFS this is retarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thats the fixture time cure time is 24hrs.
609 10 minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 2290psi shear strength.
603 10minute fixture time 72 hour cure time 3260psi shear strength.
648 3minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 3900psi shear strength.

So we're glueing together a smaller surface area of splines because we're adding a washer (that no one knows what for) to an unchanged, metallurgy wise, sprocket in an effort to prevent an unknown number of failures 7 years after the fact and after a notification time of 7 months still can't say when the part will be available even though some have been fitted and are out the door and the only official information we can gather is from stealers that are clueless and a tech that makes money from Youtube posts that refuses to answer questions because BRP has scolded him for talking out of class .
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

FFS this is retarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:agree: .... I've posted a few times - that there were very few ( if any ) "fretting" issues until the end of the 2014 model run ..... Only BRP knows what changed at that point .... maybe one or maybe a few things .... BRP is NEVER going to admit this, or say what it is/was ..... JMHO ..... Mike :agree:
 
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We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.

LOCTITE® 609 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting
parts. The product cures when confined in the absence of air
between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening
and leakage from shock and vibration. Typical applications
include rotor to shafts in fractional and subfractional
horsepower motors. Locks bushings and sleeves in housings
on shafts. Augments press fits

LOCTITE® 648™ is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts,
particularly where bond gaps can approach 0.15 mm and where
maximum strength at room temperature is required. The product cures
when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal
surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and
vibration. LOCTITE® 648™ provides robust curing performance. It not
only works on active metals (e.g. mild steel) but also on passive
substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces. The product
offers high temperature performance and oil tolerance. It tolerates
minor surface contaminations from various oils, such as cutting,
lubrication, anti-corrosion and protection fluids. Typical applications
include holding gears and sprockets onto gearbox shafts
and rotors on
electric motor shafts.
 
some have used Locktite 660- any info pos or neg??

honsfun, I have NO experience to offer regarding Loctite 660, but since BRP now recommend 609 with their new sprocket, and Lamonster recommend 648 (which they have been using for some time with great results), I personally would only be considering either of those two.;)

Pete
 
We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.....

Lamont, how long does it take to cure after using to fit a sprocket?
 
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We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.

How about asking BRP engineers? I presume you have inside contacts that run a lot deeper than what we ordinary mortals have, right?

When I was in the quality assurance field I had a motto, QA QA QA; the Questioning Approach of Quality Assurance leads to the Quintessential Answer.
 
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How about asking BRP engineers? I presume you have inside contacts that run a lot deeper than what we ordinary mortals have, right?

When I was in the quality assurance field I had a motto, QA QA QA; the Questioning Approach of Quality Assurance leads to the Quintessential Answer.

I don't have the line of communication I once had. I'm just an ordinary mortal too ;)
 
If you can't even get the pulley, the type of Loctite is not something I am worried about right now.

I am not gonna let the dealership work on my scooter, even if it is free warranty work.

It would still cost about $100 worth of gas and two trips to Gville, which would ruin 2 days for me.

They talking about 6 months to a year just to get the pulley. I am looking for some other source.

Any ideas?
 
If you can't even get the pulley, the type of Loctite is not something I am worried about right now.

I am not gonna let the dealership work on my scooter, even if it is free warranty work.

It would still cost about $100 worth of gas and two trips to Gville, which would ruin 2 days for me.

They talking about 6 months to a year just to get the pulley. I am looking for some other source.

Any ideas?

Similar here, I'm thinking just get some 648 and glue my original sprocket with it.If nothings changed with the metallurgy of the replacement why the hell are we bothering.It's the fretting causing the problem so letting those monkeys at the stealership mess with it won't change that.Piss poor design and materials is the underlying problem so barring an aftermarket improvement we're screwed I'd say.
 
My Spyder is Unusable. I had it checked, and they said it was fine. HA! There is nothing like riding down the road and nothing happens as you lose all drive. One tow truck and 4 hour later I got home. What I learnt is that I am never going to that service Centre again. The recall note did say they should replace it with an interim sprocket to keep you on the road, if I read that correctly; not that there are any in Australia.
More of an interesting point, Martin the Vlogger has done 78,000km with no problems; Great Rydes, 70,000mls; and there is a rider here in Aus hitting 60,000km with no problems; me - at 22,750kms the sprocket went! The point I ask, is it the luck of the draw, as Shaun says, or is someone cost saving?
 
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