Looking for ideas to haul/trailer an RT and an HD?

[Markinwi]

I'm looking for ideas on the best way to trailer a 2015 RT and a HD Ultra (bagger). I was thinking about something enclosed, but the wife is thinking something open, so that's the direction I'm leaning now. I haven't trailered bikes often so I could use some suggestions on what has worked for you. I was hoping for suggestions or things I should be thinking about as I start the process. Anything like trailer length, tie down systems (good or bad), or anything that can save time and frustration is much appreciated. I have used the search function, but I haven't seen much trailering both a 3-wheeler and a bike.

I do know not to have a cover on either bike if we get an open trailer! .

Thanks in advance for any help!
Mark

 

[cruisinTX]

If you feel that a longer trailer might be useful for other things, a 16' should serve the purpose. Just make sure you have the heaviest one in front of the trailer. That will likely be the Spyder at around 1100 pounds. Always keep in mind, trailer that is loaded heavier in the back (behind the load center of the axles) will begin to sway at hiway speeds. That sway can get out of control very quickly causing total loss of control and very likely destroy trailer, load and tow vehicle.

If you want to save length, find one or have some custom work done so you can load the bike from the side and have it ride that way. It may require a bit of angle to fit across the width of the trailer but not much; that will depend on the interior width of the trailer and the length of the bike. That configuration should only require about a 12' trailer.

I am partial to hooks or loops welded to the frame around the perimeter of the trailer for tiedowns, but a lot of trailers come with hinged rings mounted on the floor boards. If you go with those types of tiedown points take a look under the trailer to see if they are sufficiently anchored with bolts all the way through, nuts and large washers underneath. The ones anchored only with wood thread lag bolts can pull loose. That is more common on trailers as they age and the wood gets weak, but is something to be aware of in the event you purchase a used trailer.

For the bike DO NOT tie it down on the side stand. That will cause damage to the side stand and any associate safety switches. Tie it down the suspension will be in play as you go down the road. Don't use anything but ratchet straps that are plenty heavy duty to handle the load you are putting under. There are two schools of thought on where to attach straps on a bike. One is to tie it down, so the straps compress the suspension slightly but not all the way down. This allows the bike to ride in similar conditions to having a rider on it. Using that method does require making sure both ends of the straps are secured to prevent them for coming loose in the event any heavy bouncing is encountered. The other method is to tie the front down just above the fork brace so there is no compression of the front suspension and over the rear wheel with specially designed straps for that purpose. With that the bike rides on its suspension like that is no load on it.

For tying down the Spyder, I'll have to defer to someone who has done that as I have never done it--yet.

This probably goes without saying, but make sure your tow vehicle has sufficient towing capabilities to handle that much of a load. I don't know what the HD Ultra bagger weighs but guessing in excess of 800 pounds. That puts your load at around 1900 pounds plus a trailer of that length with a heavy enough frame to carry that much is going to be at least another 2000 to 2500 pounds. The tow rating of your vehicle should be on the driver's side door jamb. Following those guidelines is critical for safety reason and to be legal in a lot of states; maybe all of them. Make sure what-ever trailer you get has good tires. Trailer manufacturers tend to put the cheapest tires they can get much like BRP does with the Spyders.

that's all I got
good luck

 

[Eviltwin]

It will be a fairly big trailer to haul both. Maybe a side loader if you can find one. You could look for trailers for ATV's . One thing to keep in mind though is the approach angle with the Spyder, that nose is pretty low to the ground and you could grind it a bit if you aren't careful. You would also have to play around with where each sits, you want your tongue weight to be somewhere between 10 to 15% so some of the weight has to be aft of the wheels so the axle is taking it's share of the load.

 

[Eviltwin]

I see you also asked about tying it down. This is how we carry the RT behind the coach. I had wheel chocks made for the trailer and drive it up and forward till they touch and then set the brake. I use some fairly heavy web straps to secure the A arms to the front and put a strap through the rear wheel to prevent the rear of the bike from lifting up in an accident. Just be careful with that rear strap and where the valve is, I didnt once and came home with a totally flat rear tire that I had to get a new valve stem for. What a PIA that was.

 

[Mikey]

Myself, I long ago with snowmobiles told myself that I would never use a open trailer for my sleds or bikes, tractors, well thats another story! I spend too much time washing and waxing things to just throw it on a open trailer and bang it down a dirty road, it go's everywhere. That's my two cents on trailering! And not to mention. If there in a enclosed trailer you can haul one backwards if you want to, open, if you have a fairing, windshield that's a no, no in my book!

 

[Mazo EMS2]

I can haul two RT's on my 7x14 open trailer easily. You should be able to do the same I would think. I drive the front one on forward then slide the back end over, then back the second one on in the other direction.

 

[ks4hcoach]

I have trailered the older RS/GS as well as my 21 RTL on 78 inch wide x 10 ft long single axle trailer I mainly use for moving ZTR lawnmowers, etc. This trailer has a bed height of approximately 17 inches, give or take when level and a 52 inch tall full width drive on tailgate ramp. As mentioned above by Eviltwin, the nose is low and will hit easily if the approach is too steep. But an even bigger issue is the low ground clearance and relatively long wheelbase of the Spyders. They WILL high center and drag in the middle where the ramp transitions to the trailer bed unless there is both a relatively long ramp approach AND fairly shallow angle between the trailer bed and the ramp itself.

To keep this angle at a minimum so the Spyder doesn't high center I take multiple steps to minimize this angle:
1.) Park the trailer and Spyder where you can take advantage of a slope, or even a curb to get the Spyder higher relative to the trailer as this can help tremendously.
2.) Put a spacer, such as a 2x6 under the ramp but sticking out a foot or so, one for each wheel, to add a more gradual approach to the nose of the Spyder so it doesn't hit the nose OR high center as this also makes the approach angle less steep.
3.) If towing with lighter vehicle, use the jack at the front of the trailer to pick up the front, which also provides more of a shallow approach and minimizes the chance to high center. These three steps work for me.

Last, if I was going to move a Spyder quite a lot, I would make or have made by a welder, a set of front wheel brackets, securely bolted to the trailer floor, that allow you to drive the front directly into these chocks. It would be solid, safe, and easy. Of course, use the proper straps to secure the front and rear end as well, but one could set up an easy to use system. This would be even more important on an enclosed trailer as the tiedown access is significantly restricted vs a open flat bed trailer.

Unless you have a really low HD, it should not have as many clearance issues, especially in the center, as the Spyder does, but the big HD bagger can be nearly as heavy as the Spyder, just a bit more compact.

 

[Snoking1127]

Erickson tie downs and loading

I tie my down with Erickson etrack system. You have to be careful loading a Spyder because of the extended nose and a switch that hangs down under the machine in the middle. So I bought a tri-fold ramp and separated it into three rams, as my Primo trailer folding ramp was to steep. My trailer is a 6x12 and I have a large storage box on the front when trailer the trike between Wa and Az. Box comes off for KRX SxS.

I trailer the Spyder 1450 miles twice a year, so it gets belts and suspenders. Note: I had the Erickson yellow wheel chocks front and back of the front tires and the Spyder would spin the rear wheel trying to back over them. So I switched those out for two position flat tracks.

The three ramps pin into the trailers main ramp. And two of them can move in to load a golf cart.

 

[TCBoone]

I'm looking for ideas on the best way to trailer

Great question, have also been researching the various ways to tie down the Spyder.

The method of placing a strap over the wheel as Snoking1127 shows above seems a secure way that is not likely to cause damage.

There are wheel nets that could prevent the strap from slipping off the wheel, if that is a concern.

​

Anyone have experience with this type of tie down strap?


:spyder2:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Put the HD on a trailer and tow it with the Spyder! :roflblack:

 

[Markinwi]

Thanks for the input so far! I would have found out about the clearance issues the hard way! Thanks!
Tow vehicle is rated for 5,000 lbs so I'm not too worried about that.

Anything else people can think of is much appreciated.

Mark

 

[Bfromla]

Air lift open trailer, lil pricy maybe :dontknow:
https://www.acmetools.com/air-tow-t...JGSTfH4pLfLH7QHNCCOGPiNIl7-ZLU3QaAqPREALw_wcB

 

[RapidSpyder]

Use this for my Spyder and my son’s Victory. Use removable wheel chocks. Spyder is secured front left, with the rear tire angled to the side. Victory fits behind the right front tire of the Spyder.

 

[jchadwi]

Haul Trailer

I'm looking for ideas on the best way to trailer a 2015 RT and a HD Ultra (bagger). I was thinking about something enclosed, but the wife is thinking something open, so that's the direction I'm leaning now. I haven't trailered bikes often so I could use some suggestions on what has worked for you. I was hoping for suggestions or things I should be thinking about as I start the process. Anything like trailer length, tie down systems (good or bad), or anything that can save time and frustration is much appreciated. I have used the search function, but I haven't seen much trailering both a 3-wheeler and a bike.

I do know not to have a cover on either bike if we get an open trailer! .

Thanks in advance for any help!
Mark

I hauled the Spyder a few times on an open trailer. Tied it down at the front suspension and though the rear wheel. That worked ok, but had to reposition the rear wheel to avoid the valve stem and seemed to rain before I got to where I was going leaving the Spyder covered in road grime. I bought an enclosed trailer. Best thing since sliced bread. Now I tie it down with E track and 2" ratchet straps over the tires. I have hauled the Spyder over 10,000 miles behind the motorhome with no issues. Plus, with an enclosed trailer, the Spyder stays clean. I built boxes for our helmets, trays for other accessories, hangers for riding gear and it all is secure in a locked trailer.

 

[WDAVEY]

Maybe try parking the spyder and Harley close to each other and fool around with placement until you find the optimum "footprint" or size if trailer you need. I only tow a Spyder RTL in my 7 X 14 enclosed trailer which keeps the bike clean and serves as secure storage once you reach your destination. Make sure your ramp is wide enough to allow the Spyder into the trailer mine wouldn't fit into my old 6X 12 trailer so measure carefully! Look at Condor motorcycle wheel chocks. I use two for the front wheels of the spyder with tie down straps through the front suspension so it can't roll backwards. I run a strap through the rear wheel from side to side just snug enough to keep it from bouncing around.

 

[Markinwi]

Maybe try parking the spyder and Harley close to each other and fool around with placement until you find the optimum "footprint" or size if trailer you need. I only tow a Spyder RTL in my 7 X 14 enclosed trailer which keeps the bike clean and serves as secure storage once you reach your destination. Make sure your ramp is wide enough to allow the Spyder into the trailer mine wouldn't fit into my old 6X 12 trailer so measure carefully! Look at Condor motorcycle wheel chocks. I use two for the front wheels of the spyder with tie down straps through the front suspension so it can't roll backwards. I run a strap through the rear wheel from side to side just snug enough to keep it from bouncing around.

I probably should have mentioned that the bikes are in storage. This is part of the reason I'm looking for suggestions/help. I like the idea of the security and protection an enclosed trailer offers but the wife is thinking an open trailer can sit in the garage with the bikes on it for winter storage.

I was hoping to see what others have done so I have a place to start when talking to dealers. Any other suggestions are much appreciated.

Mark

 

[Peter Aawen]

I probably should have mentioned that the bikes are in storage. This is part of the reason I'm looking for suggestions/help. I like the idea of the security and protection an enclosed trailer offers but the wife is thinking an open trailer can sit in the garage with the bikes on it for winter storage. ......

Why can't they do that in an enclosed trailer too?? :dontknow: And the security & protection that you like so much means that if, for whatever reason, you find the enclosed trailer with both bikes safely enclosed aboard start to get in the way INSIDE the garage, you can always just run it OUTSIDE the garage for a little bit! hyea: And if you put a tiny amount of thought & effort into it, you'll probably be able to make the bikes just as safe as if they were still stored inside the trailer inside the garage - but in any case, they'll always be more secure & better protected than if they are kept on an open trailer anywhere!! :lecturef_smilie:

If there's no other important &/or over-riding factors, then I'd say "Go the enclosed trailer, Every Time!!" :yes:

 

[Steve W.]

I like the idea of the security and protection an enclosed trailer offers but the wife is thinking an open trailer can sit in the garage with the bikes on it for winter storage.

Before you consider that, do a couple of things first.
1. Measure the total length of the trailer. Compare that to the space available in your garage. Might be closer than you think.
2. Measure the distance from the top of your windshield and/or antenna(s) to the top of your door opening. Compare that to the height of the trailer floor to see if you will have clearance.
3. Determine just how accessible you want the bikes to be. Your location shows as "Wisconsin", but I know that even there, you will have a day or three during the winter that you want to go for a ride. Do you really want to have to hitch the trailer to your tow vehicle to pull it out into the driveway just so you can unload a bike?

Why can't they do that in an enclosed trailer too?? :dontknow:

The first two reasons that came to my mind are Length and Height.

As suggested above, compare the length of the trailer to the space available. Might be close.

But, more likely to be a problem would be the height. By the time you get a trailer tall enough to park a full-size bike and a Spyder, it might be too tall to go in the overhead door. In my neighborhood, most of the doors are 7' high. In some of the more up-scale neighborhoods, you will find 8' doors. About the only time you will find anything bigger is if you have a dedicated detached garage for your toys.

.