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Idles then dies

Gsdfan

New member
My 2015 F3 SE6 was running perfectly and then wasn’t ridden for 3 months. It then started fine but upon giving it gas it was boggy and didn’t sound like it usually does. Accelerating and shifting made it hesitate and I had to give it more throttle than usual to get speed.

I got back home okay but it then would only idle briefly and die. It never idled at the normal RPM’s either.

I suspected bad gas or that I mistakenly put regular in it although I’ve never gotten bad gas in 50 years of driving and I doubt i put regular in it as it had been running perfectly before it sat for 3 months.

I drained the tank anyway and put in a gallon of premium. Nothing changed. The battery was original so i replaced that. No change.

Ive replaced the fuel filter with the exact same type with no improvement, still idles and dies.

NO CODES on the display.

I live in the Houston area so no extreme cold weather issues. I keep it garaged.

Any suggestions before I take it to a technician?

Thanks
 
My 2015 F3 SE6 was running perfectly and then wasn’t ridden for 3 months. It then started fine but upon giving it gas it was boggy and didn’t sound like it usually does. Accelerating and shifting made it hesitate and I had to give it more throttle than usual to get speed.

I got back home okay but it then would only idle briefly and die. It never idled at the normal RPM’s either.

I suspected bad gas or that I mistakenly put regular in it although I’ve never gotten bad gas in 50 years of driving and I doubt i put regular in it as it had been running perfectly before it sat for 3 months.

I drained the tank anyway and put in a gallon of premium. Nothing changed. The battery was original so i replaced that. No change.

Ive replaced the fuel filter with the exact same type with no improvement, still idles and dies.

NO CODES on the display.

I live in the Houston area so no extreme cold weather issues. I keep it garaged.

Any suggestions before I take it to a technician?

Thanks
Add a bottle of good fuel injector cleaner..... see if you can keep it running long enough to make a difference. Sounds like it is running lean.
 
My 2015 F3 SE6 was running perfectly and then wasn’t ridden for 3 months. It then started fine but upon giving it gas it was boggy and didn’t sound like it usually does. Accelerating and shifting made it hesitate and I had to give it more throttle than usual to get speed.

I got back home okay but it then would only idle briefly and die. It never idled at the normal RPM’s either.

I suspected bad gas or that I mistakenly put regular in it although I’ve never gotten bad gas in 50 years of driving and I doubt i put regular in it as it had been running perfectly before it sat for 3 months.

I drained the tank anyway and put in a gallon of premium. Nothing changed. The battery was original so i replaced that. No change.

Ive replaced the fuel filter with the exact same type with no improvement, still idles and dies.

NO CODES on the display.

I live in the Houston area so no extreme cold weather issues. I keep it garaged.

Any suggestions before I take it to a technician?

Thanks

In reality ( based on tens of thousands of users here ) using Reg. or Premium will make NO Real difference..... It still could still be Bad gas ( and using premium is more likely to have Bad gas because few folks use it in their cars ) .... How long did yoiu run the Engine after you drained the tank , there is quite of bit of gas in the system between the tank and the engine. ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
You said that you didnt see any codes on the display but did you actually follow the button pushing procedure to get the codes to display.Its very odd for this bike to run poorly without turning on the check engine lite.There are some codes that may need certain conditions to be met before they will display,for instance ,fully warmed up or above 32 deg,or above 400 rpm.What youre describing sounds like a missfire but that problem would set a code probably within 30 seconds.
 
Yes I did go through the procedure to enable the code display. I just got through running some injector cleaner and it seems to be helping. It’s going to take more than one bottle.
 
Yes I did go through the procedure to enable the code display. I just got through running some injector cleaner and it seems to be helping. It’s going to take more than one bottle.
Yes, add more than on the instructions........may take a few bottles and tanks of gas ......hopefully it improves. Keep Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in mind for storage longer than a month. Good luck.
 
Yes, add more than on the instructions........may take a few bottles and tanks of gas ......hopefully it improves. Keep Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in mind for storage longer than a month. Good luck.

Just be a little wary of adding Waayyy too much - a 'bit' more than recommended by the instructions isn't likely to hurt & will probably help, but saaay, double the amount.... yeah, that's getting pretty risky!! :lecturef_smilie:

Most of these injector cleaners work by causing the injectors &/or burn in the cylinders to 'run hot' OR they are heavy solvents that work to dissolve any build-up (usually hydro-carbons or carbon of some sort) on the injector nozzles, and that's good, just so long as you don't over-do it!! If things get too hot or the solvents are too concentrated, you can pretty much burn the injector nozzles off, and if you're lucky, that's just 'not good'!! If you're unlucky, and the nozzle gets burned enough to part company with the rest of the injector and drop lumps of metal onto the rapidly moving piston, things can go from 'not good' to 'absofreakinlutely catastrophic' & quite expensive in less than a second!! Like, 'new engine' type expensive too!! :shocked:

One of the major reasons most injector cleaners come with a recommended amount to use is to limit the chances of any of this ^^ occurring, giving the manufacturer/retailer a 'reasonable safety factor' to protect themselves from lawsuits & claims for damages if injector nozzles drop off or engines melt.... So by increasing the amount of injector cleaner you use, you are eating into that 'reasonable safety factor', and thereby increasing the risks you are facing of potentially damaging your engine! :p . You are much less likely to damage anything if you use the recommended amount, only as highlighted with the underlining above, simply do that a few times over a few tanks of gas. Yeah, there are still some (signigficantly smaller) risks associated with doing that, but at least if the worst happens & you drop an injector nozzle into the cylinder while at high revs, completely destroying the engine in the process, you can stand up in court and say 'but I only ever used the recommended amount' and 'nothing in the instructions said not to add it to every tank of gas for 12 months!!' :banghead:

Just Sayin' :rolleyes:
 
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... I suspected bad gas or that I mistakenly put regular in it although I’ve never gotten bad gas in 50 years of driving and I doubt i put regular in it as it had been running perfectly before it sat for 3 months. ...

In reality ( based on tens of thousands of users here ) using Reg. or Premium will make NO Real difference. ...
I agree with Mike here. I think I have read some members here say that they have never added a single ounce of "premium" gas and have only used "regular".

We got my wife's '17 RT this past Spring. The previous owner said that he ran "regular" and could not tell if there were any problems. We maintain a log book for the bike, so we decided to try using "premium" on one trip to see if there was any difference. 1682 miles, most of them on "premium" fuel. Virtually NO differences noted, certainly none that could be attributed to fuel quality.

Bottom line: don't worry about "accidentally" filling up with "regular" gas.
In fact, I would suggest trying it, you might do it INTENTIONALLY more often. :thumbup:

.
 
Just be a little wary of adding Waayyy too much - a 'bit' more than recommended by the instructions isn't likely to hurt & will probably help, but saaay, double the amount.... yeah, that's getting pretty risky!! :lecturef_smilie:

Most of these injector cleaners work by causing the injectors &/or burn in the cylinders to 'run hot' OR they are heavy solvents that work to dissolve any build-up (usually hydro-carbons or carbon of some sort) on the injector nozzles, and that's good, just so long as you don't over-do it!! If things get too hot or the solvents are too concentrated, you can pretty much burn the injector nozzles off, and if you're lucky, that's just 'not good'!! If you're unlucky, and the nozzle gets burned enough to part company with the rest of the injector and drop lumps of metal onto the rapidly moving piston, things can go from 'not good' to 'absofreakinlutely catastrophic' & quite expensive in less than a second!! Like, 'new engine' type expensive too!! :shocked:

One of the major reasons most injector cleaners come with a recommended amount to use is to limit the chances of any of this ^^ occurring, giving the manufacturer/retailer a 'reasonable safety factor' to protect themselves from lawsuits & claims for damages if injector nozzles drop off or engines melt.... So by increasing the amount of injector cleaner you use, you are eating into that 'reasonable safety factor', and thereby increasing the risks you are facing of potentially damaging your engine! :p . You are much less likely to damage anything if you use the recommended amount, only as highlighted with the underlining above, simply do that a few times over a few tanks of gas. Yeah, there are still some (signigficantly smaller) risks associated with doing that, but at least if the worst happens & you drop an injector nozzle into the cylinder while at high revs, completely destroying the engine in the process, you can stand up in court and say 'but I only ever used the recommended amount' and 'nothing in the instructions said not to add it to every tank of gas for 12 months!!' :banghead:

Just Sayin' :rolleyes:

I dont want to argue with you Peter Aawen because I know you know your s--- but this is not a direct injection engine,the fuel injectors are not in the combustion chambers so they dont run hot.Ive cleaned and also taken apart many injectors while off the engine and there is zero chance of the tip falling off or burning off.When I clean an injector on the bench I usually run Seafoam undiluted thru at about 60 psi until the flow pattern looked correct.Sometimes you just cant get them clean and you have to replace.He can try to clean his and double up on the recommended dosage with no problem IMO.If it doesnt fix it then hes off to the dealership.
 
I dont want to argue with you Peter Aawen because I know you know your s--- but this is not a direct injection engine,the fuel injectors are not in the combustion chambers so they dont run hot.Ive cleaned and also taken apart many injectors while off the engine and there is zero chance of the tip falling off or burning off.When I clean an injector on the bench I usually run Seafoam undiluted thru at about 60 psi until the flow pattern looked correct.Sometimes you just cant get them clean and you have to replace.He can try to clean his and double up on the recommended dosage with no problem IMO.If it doesnt fix it then hes off to the dealership.

Thanks, I didn’t want to stir the pot.👍
 
I dont want to argue with you Peter Aawen because I know you know your s--- but this is not a direct injection engine,the fuel injectors are not in the combustion chambers so they dont run hot.Ive cleaned and also taken apart many injectors while off the engine and there is zero chance of the tip falling off or burning off.When I clean an injector on the bench I usually run Seafoam undiluted thru at about 60 psi until the flow pattern looked correct.Sometimes you just cant get them clean and you have to replace.He can try to clean his and double up on the recommended dosage with no problem IMO.If it doesnt fix it then hes off to the dealership.

True, I didn't even think of DI/Indirect Injection thing... :opps: Just saw the comment & posted the BE WARY of Over-Dosing Warning because of the damage I've seen/experienced caused by injector cleaners used incorrectly/over-dosed on engines in operation - the damage they CAN DO & HAVE DONE on both DI & Indirect Injection engines where the nozzles or parts there-off can end up in the cylinders is never pretty!! :shocked:

However, I believe the validity of my Warning still stands - just remember that the things you might get away with during 'off engine servicing or rebuilding' can be a whole lot different to what goes on inside an engine while it's operating! And to clarify a little further, as I mentioned/implied in the '.... causing the injectors &/or burn in the cylinders to 'run hot' OR they are heavy solvents that work to dissolve any build-up...' bit, some of these injector cleaners are quite aggressive solvents - they have to be in order to work diluted in the fuel; so using excessive injector cleaner doesn't necessarily mean that the injector tips will always run hot, it could well mean that the injector nozzles are simply eaten away by the excessively corrosive additives!! :shocked:

Injectors that have had the tiny little spray holes that help fuel atomisation corroded out by age/use OR over-aggressive use of solvents can mean that instead of atomising the fuel, they can dribble fuel out, or they might spray out a straight jet of very high pressure fuel, possibly squirting it directly into the cylinder or air plenum & often, always spraying that highly corrosive mix directly onto the exact same spot, where either of those/B] can do all sorts of nasty things! . :banghead:

So I believe my Warning still stands - there's usually a very good reason those cleaners have a dosage recommendation, even if it is just to cover the manufacturer's/retailer's arse if the cleaner causes problems in your engine!! :lecturef_smilie: . But as with all this sorta stuff, I've put it out there so that those reading can make an informed decision, making up their own minds about what they chose to do - and they can still do whatever they like, cos it's ultimately their choice. But at least they might now think of the potential downsides! :thumbup:
 
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I have a four wheeler that sat for a while. When I started it it ran bad, refused to rev up and constantly sputtered and stalled. I drained the gas from the tank with a siphon pump, poured fresh gas in and problems solved. Imho adding gas additives to BAD gas just gives you BAD GAS gas with additives in it. Drain and refill, worth a shot.
 
After re-reading the original post, I see the OP already drained the gas from the tank. Just trying to offer some help. Another long shot, check the battery terminal bolts for tightness and add the star lock washers for good measure. From the dealership I was able to get a quarter turn on the bolts before adding the washers as suggested by members of this forum.
 
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