2016 Spyder F3 hard starting when hot.

[ZombieWoof]

I'm sure this has been asked and answered, but I can't seem to find the thread, so my apologies...

2016 Spyder F3, starts fine in the morning, but even a quick 10 minute trip, once the engine is at operating temperature and I turn the bike off, it strains to start again. Acts like the battery is drained, but once it cools back down it fires right back up. 2 years ago I put a new battery in and thought the issue was resolved, but within a couple weeks issue was back.

Initial start voltage is 12.4, when running mid 13's, when hard starting voltage is 12.4 but drops into the 10's, and 8's if pushed.

Hard start sound effect: (Normal turn over sound) ER, ER, ER...Pause...ER Er... longer pause... Er....even longer pause........ er..... lights dim and not even trying...

It's time for a new battery, (Maybe LIPO) and I remember reading a bypass fix on something involving the intake (I think) but can't find the article again...
Riding season is coming and I'd like my "toy" to behave, especially when riding with groups.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TYIA

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, you've done the proper troubleshooting, and said it yourself. "It's time for a new battery". It is.

 

[BajaRon]

If your battery drops to around 11v or less during the cranking process, that's not enough to reliably start a Spyder. Frankly, I'm amazed it starts at all if dipping into the 8v range.

Be sure your battery is fully charged. A trickle charger won't get it. And I highly recommend a charger that has a desulfinate component. For a lead/acid battery, this can add substantially to the lifespan.

Of course you always want to check for tight terminals and corrosion. And be sure to get a quality battery (not so easy these days) with at least 350 CCA.

 

[jjc54]

I'm sure this has been asked and answered, but I can't seem to find the thread, so my apologies...

2016 Spyder F3, starts fine in the morning, but even a quick 10 minute trip, once the engine is at operating temperature and I turn the bike off, it strains to start again. Acts like the battery is drained, but once it cools back down it fires right back up. 2 years ago I put a new battery in and thought the issue was resolved, but within a couple weeks issue was back.

Initial start voltage is 12.4, when running mid 13's, when hard starting voltage is 12.4 but drops into the 10's, and 8's if pushed.

Hard start sound effect: (Normal turn over sound) ER, ER, ER...Pause...ER Er... longer pause... Er....even longer pause........ er..... lights dim and not even trying...

It's time for a new battery, (Maybe LIPO) and I remember reading a bypass fix on something involving the intake (I think) but can't find the article again...
Riding season is coming and I'd like my "toy" to behave, especially when riding with groups.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TYIA

Your Spyder does not act like mine. My initial cranking speed is noticeably slower especially if a cold morning. After a ride and restart the engine spins much quicker. Can it be that after your engine warms up the starter drags? Sorry, I don't know how to troubleshoot that. Just a thought after your last battery started doing this within a couple weeks. Good luck!

 

[BajaRon]

A hot starter will always draw more than a cool one, and a starter going bad is always a possibility. But we've seen zero bad starters on any Spyder so far. Again, not that it can't happy and not a bad idea to eliminate it as your source for hot start issues.

Has anyone out there had to replace a starter on you Spyder?

On the other hand, because the Spyder is so demanding of its battery and battery failures are so very common, I would definitely look there first.