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F3 Front Sprocket Inspection

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I pulled my front sprocket cover off Friday and could find no red rust at all on the Daytona. 17,100 miles. I am going to wait on taking it apart until it starts showing wear, I have found that using a flashlight and a telescoping mirror, you can maneuver it to quickly inspect the front of the sprocket. Without any wear, the RTV would not fill in well enough.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

So you started this Thread crying wolf which cost me $120 plus a torque wrench I did not need ONLY to find out my 2015 F3 with 10,000 miles had No problem? I'm starting to believe my dealer when he says- "Don't believe everything you read on a forum?" At least in this case!
 
So you started this Thread crying wolf which cost me $120 plus a torque wrench I did not need ONLY to find out my 2015 F3 with 10,000 miles had No problem? I'm starting to believe my dealer when he says- "Don't believe everything you read on a forum?" At least in this case!

Not sure about the crying wolf part. It's kinda obvious you haven't followed the thread very close as several ryders have caught theirs before they failed. The reason I started it in the first place was due to seeing one fail on a 2016 F3T in Maggie Valley in October. It failed at a traffic light on a very busy 4 lane road and the gentleman was not in the best of shape to try and wrestle the 500 lb paperweight out of traffic and avoid getting hit by an unaware cager. Thank God he didn't get hit or generate a heart attack due to the stress and the strain.

If for no other reason that this thread has helped one ryder (and it certainly has and will continue to do so as times go by) to avoid those circumstances (or worse) it has been worth every moment. I will also tell you that I am mindful of that fact and not any insensitive and uninformed comments that this forum has an overabundance of. In the several years I have been here I have seen many good people leave due to comments like this. Only reason I replied to this was to set the record straight.
Oh, and if I were you I would hang onto your purchases, you might still need them at some point.
 
Not sure about the crying wolf part. It's kinda obvious you haven't followed the thread very close as several ryders have caught theirs before they failed. The reason I started it in the first place was due to seeing one fail on a 2016 F3T in Maggie Valley in October. It failed at a traffic light on a very busy 4 lane road and the gentleman was not in the best of shape to try and wrestle the 500 lb paperweight out of traffic and avoid getting hit by an unaware cager. Thank God he didn't get hit or generate a heart attack due to the stress and the strain.

If for no other reason that this thread has helped one ryder (and it certainly has and will continue to do so as times go by) to avoid those circumstances (or worse) it has been worth every moment. I will also tell you that I am mindful of that fact and not any insensitive and uninformed comments that this forum has an overabundance of. In the several years I have been here I have seen many good people leave due to comments like this. Only reason I replied to this was to set the record straight.
Oh, and if I were you I would hang onto your purchases, you might still need them at some point.

Original Post:
Had a friend/customer loose his splines on his F3 Ltd at Spyder Adventures. We were able to verify by removing the plastic cover for the front sprocket. His did show the telltale rust around the front of the sprocket. I highly suggest that ryders periodically (ever month or so) pull that cover and look for the rust. Just looking under the byke is probably not good enough.
What happens, the splines on the sprocket start throwing metal shavings and they appear as red rust. By pulling that cover (2 min job) it should help you to catch it before it goes completely out and you are stranded.
My friend was very lucky and Blessed. Out of all the areas to ryde, many without cell phone reception, his grenaded (total part failure) right next to the Maggie Valley Inn at the stoplight!
You might not be so lucky!
I know this topic has been posted before, but to my knowledge no one has suggested pulling the inspection cover.[/QUOTE]
 
Got my Spyder back

Yesterday, I got my Spyder back. New front pulley, new counter weight. The dealership wanted me to pay at first, but I insisted they call BRP, It was covered by my BEST warranty. Just a public service announcement in case other dealers try to say they don't think this kind of thing is covered.
 
So you started this Thread crying wolf which cost me $120 plus a torque wrench I did not need ONLY to find out my 2015 F3 with 10,000 miles had No problem? I'm starting to believe my dealer when he says- "Don't believe everything you read on a forum?" At least in this case!
Sarge at some point your sprocket will probably fail. You just don’t have enough miles on yours yet. A good idea would be to check your sprocket every 5000 miles or so. If you see red rust get it to your dealer before it fails.
 
Sarge at some point your sprocket will probably fail. You just don’t have enough miles on yours yet. A good idea would be to check your sprocket every 5000 miles or so. If you see red rust get it to your dealer before it fails.

I will buy a New Bolt once a year to check it and hopefully never have to use the sprocket?
 
Everyone needs to relax.
This is not one of those things to get upset over.
Once every 5,000 miles simply remove the 3 bolts holding the front sprocket cover and take a peak.
If you see "red dust" simply call your dealer and have it replaced.....its on the cheap side if not covered under warranty.
5 minutes of your time every 5,000 miles is nothing to get into a twist over.:thumbup:

I checked my sprocket, it was red dusted so my dealer replaced it....nice-n-easy-jack-a-peasy.:yes:
 
So you started this Thread crying wolf which cost me $120 plus a torque wrench I did not need ONLY to find out my 2015 F3 with 10,000 miles had No problem? I'm starting to believe my dealer when he says- "Don't believe everything you read on a forum?" At least in this case!

Sarge, I’m not sure how Doc starting this thread caused you to spend $120 plus a torque wrench, nor how it is “crying wolf”. I removed my cover plate as per Doc’s initial warning and suggestion and did nothing further as there was no tell tale red dust. Didn’t cost me a cent. I will continue to do the same every few months to check. Thanks Doc:thumbup:

Pete
 
I take it from what I am reading that the drive belt is over-tightened from the factory and that reducing the tension and running an idler pulley is going to reduce or even eliminate this problem. There is also mentioning of the SE6 models "hammering" the splines. Does this mean the engagement is too abrupt or harsh?? I haven't yet bought an F3 but I am wondering if a manual shift model along with the tension reduction and idler changes would completely prevent this from being a problem for me when i do buy an F3.
 
I take it from what I am reading that the drive belt is over-tightened from the factory and that reducing the tension and running an idler pulley is going to reduce or even eliminate this problem. There is also mentioning of the SE6 models "hammering" the splines. Does this mean the engagement is too abrupt or harsh?? I haven't yet bought an F3 but I am wondering if a manual shift model along with the tension reduction and idler changes would completely prevent this from being a problem for me when i do buy an F3.
Well I have the 2015 sm6 and My Belt tension is Now down to 120 at 10,000 Miles and was never really high from the factory (160) I did have some red rust as my pictures showed BUT when I pulled the bolt the Sprocket Looked fine (Per Pictures posted)? I don't feel the need for any tensioner because the Minor vibration does Not Bother me at +or- 4,000 Rpms. Don't let this Thread stop you from buying a F3 But make sure the tension is at the New Level.
We have seen A Picture of the older GS Sprocket with a lot of separation between the Sprocket and gear But I don,t recall any pictures of the F3 where the sprocket is extremely worn-Only reports of replacement? I showed my pictures- I would like people to show pictures of how their F3 Sprocket looked before replacement But have Not seen any. It would help to see how it decays?
 
I take it from what I am reading that the drive belt is over-tightened from the factory and that reducing the tension and running an idler pulley is going to reduce or even eliminate this problem. There is also mentioning of the SE6 models "hammering" the splines. Does this mean the engagement is too abrupt or harsh?? I haven't yet bought an F3 but I am wondering if a manual shift model along with the tension reduction and idler changes would completely prevent this from being a problem for me when i do buy an F3.

It is true that over time BRP has dropped the tension specs on the belts several times, and we have found that dropping it even further can be done without issue. On most bykes, it will move the speed where the vibration occurs, but not eliminate it completely. By using a vibration damper it has pretty much killed the vibration for everyone that was experiencing it. It does make sense that the less tension the belt is run at (and the less vibration) it should reduce wear on the front sprocket. Since BRP has not given the stats of the number of failures and type of Spyder effected, we really only have what has been posted here and Facebook to go by. There seems to be more SE6's than the manual SM6's, but there are still SM6's failing, though not as many. There also have been some RTs and a few earlier models that have failed, but the majority that have failed have been F3's. Without actual stats, it also seems 2015 & 16's had the most failures. It is curious to note that most of the F3's have not had this problem, which some (including myself) are beginning to think that a batch of front sprockets weren't properly tempered, and that has caused the problem that some have experienced. Hope that helps. As I said, we are all flying blind here and speculation (although somewhat educated) is all we have.
 
Belt adjustment

It is true that over time BRP has dropped the tension specs on the belts several times, and we have found that dropping it even further can be done without issue. On most bykes, it will move the speed where the vibration occurs, but not eliminate it completely. By using a vibration damper it has pretty much killed the vibration for everyone that was experiencing it. It does make sense that the less tension the belt is run at (and the less vibration) it should reduce wear on the front sprocket. Since BRP has not given the stats of the number of failures and type of Spyder effected, we really only have what has been posted here and Facebook to go by. There seems to be more SE6's than the manual SM6's, but there are still SM6's failing, though not as many. There also have been some RTs and a few earlier models that have failed, but the majority that have failed have been F3's. Without actual stats, it also seems 2015 & 16's had the most failures. It is curious to note that most of the F3's have not had this problem, which some (including myself) are beginning to think that a batch of front sprockets weren't properly tempered, and that has caused the problem that some have experienced. Hope that helps. As I said, we are all flying blind here and speculation (although somewhat educated) is all we have.

Roadster, I must have missed something, what has the F3's belt tension been dropped to?
Thanks:doorag:
 
Roadster, I must have missed something, what has the F3's belt tension been dropped to?
Thanks:doorag:

Wasn't really referencing the F3 on that. I know that they have dropped the RT several times. Not sure what it is now. For both my RT & F3 I set the tension at about 90 with the wheel off the ground. That gives me about 180 on the ground. Pretty sure that is lower than the latest data and it has worked very well. We can get away with that with using the vibration dampers. We have over 47,000 on the RT and still on the original rear wheel bearings. The F3 seems to be breaking in very well at over 17k. I might experiment a little next year with dropping them a little lower, but when something is working, hard to change it!
 
a month and a half since I last looked at the sprocket
2100 mi. on 10/19, no rust. Now 3200 and the dreaded rust is there.
I did install a belt tensioner about 350 miles ago.
Checked tension today, it's 180 rear wheel on the ground.
I find it a real bother with so few miles.
Now to the dealer. I hope he is up on this situation.
 
a month and a half since I last looked at the sprocket
2100 mi. on 10/19, no rust. Now 3200 and the dreaded rust is there.
I did install a belt tensioner about 350 miles ago.
Checked tension today, it's 180 rear wheel on the ground.
I find it a real bother with so few miles.
Now to the dealer. I hope he is up on this situation.

Good catch! Hope they get it in and out quickly. If the dealer gives you any issues I would have them contact BRP directly. If there isn't already a TSB on this, there should be.
I see yours is a '17 and a SM6. That adds evidence to it being a bad tempering issue.......
 
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a month and a half since I last looked at the sprocket
2100 mi. on 10/19, no rust. Now 3200 and the dreaded rust is there.
I did install a belt tensioner about 350 miles ago.
Checked tension today, it's 180 rear wheel on the ground.
I find it a real bother with so few miles.
Now to the dealer. I hope he is up on this situation.

Just because you see a Little Red Rust does NOT mean its Grenading? Mine had rust see Pictures way back and the sprocket was fine at 9,000 miles? If your concerned by the $10 bolt and take the old one off and Look- If its OK install the New Bolt to the proper Torque. Your Belt should be MUCH lower than 180 with the cricket reading . More like 90-120? I settled on 120 pounds on mine Off and On the ground because with the 2 Up shock the difference OFF and ON is minimal because its very stiff!
 
Wasn't really referencing the F3 on that. I know that they have dropped the RT several times. Not sure what it is now. For both my RT & F3 I set the tension at about 90 with the wheel off the ground. That gives me about 180 on the ground. Pretty sure that is lower than the latest data and it has worked very well. We can get away with that with using the vibration dampers. We have over 47,000 on the RT and still on the original rear wheel bearings. The F3 seems to be breaking in very well at over 17k. I might experiment a little next year with dropping them a little lower, but when something is working, hard to change it!

I'm sorry but there is No way you got 90 Pounds OFF the ground with the cricket AND 180 ON the ground-Just does Not Make any sense- ?:hun:
 
Drive pully

Spare pulleys and bolts will be exhausted soon. They may make better ones next run.
This has been a issue from 2008, I put a rubber coating on my drive pully, took away the noise and vibration was much quieter, 9 years later still going and no problems.
 
I'm sorry but there is No way you got 90 Pounds OFF the ground with the cricket AND 180 ON the ground-Just does Not Make any sense- ?:hun:

That is exactly what I have both our Spyders set at. We use the Black and Silver Kricket for the up in the air test and the Green and Silver Kricket for the on the ground reading.
Just out of curiosity, why do you question that the weight of the byke adds 100 lbs. of tension to the belt?

And, they must like it because the RT has 49k on it and the Daytona has almost 18k on it. No bearing issues with either byke.
 
That is exactly what I have both our Spyders set at. We use the Black and Silver Kricket for the up in the air test and the Green and Silver Kricket for the on the ground reading.
Just out of curiosity, why do you question that the weight of the byke adds 100 lbs. of tension to the belt?

And, they must like it because the RT has 49k on it and the Daytona has almost 18k on it. No bearing issues with either byke.

Why are you using 2 different Krickets- Pictures and explanation Please. If you are using the Standard Kricket Ron sells and we All use you are not going to vary 100 Pounds from JUST an inch off the ground to ON the ground and If its 180 on the ground you have not taken the New standards Seriously? Happy New Year!!!
 
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