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F3 Front Sprocket Inspection

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Front sproket

Just checked both of our 2015 F3SE’s from sprocket with approximately 12,000 miles AND my wife’s bike has the dreaded rust. My bike, however, is clean. We use our spiders mostly for touring and my wife is a moderate rider. We do not pull a trailer and we do not ride two up. I am more aggressive. Not crazy, but definitely like to “burn fuel” once in a while. Yet my bike has no rust.
Will need to fix my wife’s bike, but do I replace mine even if there is not rust?
Did BRP address this issue with improved parts?
Really appreciate this forum and in particular this thread.
Any advice?
 
I'm curious on your two 2015 F3SE's if they both have the same part number on the sprocket? Also when they were build at the factory. Could it be that there is a range of Spyders that where made with a different manufactures part? Also check your S/N to see if they are close to the same.
 
I'm curious on your two 2015 F3SE's if they both have the same part number on the sprocket? Also when they were build at the factory. Could it be that there is a range of Spyders that where made with a different manufactures part? Also check your S/N to see if they are close to the same.

Went down the serial #, build train of thought after my first failure. Unfortunately the responses I received from people showed a wide range of serial numbers and model years. Mine is a early 2015 F3s SE6 (I think it was the first retail delivery in FL) but we are seeing the issue with 2016's and 2017's as well.

CJ JAX
 
Freddy, Sorry I missed your question, but the bolt turned about an 1/8 of an inch, I cleaned off the mark I had and put a new one on. < snip.

Thanks cmarsala - that's 100% of rusty pulley bolts (2 out of 2 reported here :cheers:) that tightened when re-torqued. Same old cause with same old result - failure probably due to 'inadequate clamping force' at the factory and/or inappropriate materials.

BRP = :chat: :rolleyes: - Spyders riders = :banghead: :shocked:
 
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Dust

Checked mine today and found gray dust on the pulley but it wasn't red.
I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow and ask him if he has changed any yet or what his thoughts are.
The last four digits on mine 2131 too
 
Checked mine today and found gray dust on the pulley but it wasn't red.
I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow and ask him if he has changed any yet or what his thoughts are.
The last four digits on mine 2131 too

I'm thinking that if I wash off my red dust the problem will go away. :joke:
 
I'm curious on your two 2015 F3SE's if they both have the same part number on the sprocket? Also when they were build at the factory. Could it be that there is a range of Spyders that where made with a different manufactures part? Also check your S/N to see if they are close to the same.
Sprocket # 2131
not sure how to check the build date, but both bikes were bought by the same dealer that were in the dealer’s stock.
 
I was talking to a very knowledgeable retired machinist the other day and he expressed his surprise that the splines were not tapered. He said that in most of these type applications, they will taper the splines for a more secure fit.
 
Is it safe to re-torque (Turn the bolt an extra half inch or whatever IF Needed ) without actually Putting a New Bolt On?

My New Sprocket won't be here till Monday.
 
Is it safe to re-torque (Turn the bolt an extra half inch or whatever IF Needed ) without actually Putting a New Bolt On?

My New Sprocket won't be here till Monday.

I don't think that is a TTY (torque to yield) bolt, so you should be OK for a few days. Might reapply loctite. If it was TTY bolt they actually stretch when put in the first time, become work hardened, and then hold an exact clamping force. The torque procedure is to torque them to a specific torque, then rotate the bolt a specific number of degrees. With this bolt just having a set torque with no additional rotation it is not a TTY bolt, so you should be good.
 
In shop for the second time for sprocket failure

The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. This is the second replacement sprocket. (Original failed - 28,000 miles, first replacement failed - 6000 miles later). I put on about 24,000 mile a year. I would hate to think that every 6000 miles I would have to replace the sprocket (each repair takes about 2-3 weeks)
 
2 - 3

2 - 3 WEEKS....?????????
mine was done in 4 days... took her in on a Tuesday, rode off on Friday....
my dealer just ordered a bunch (3 or so) to have on hand... inform your dealer to do the same...
best of luck, and hope this is the VERY LAST ONE you'll ever need to replace....
Dan P
SPYD3R
 
I don't think that is a TTY (torque to yield) bolt, so you should be OK for a few days. Might reapply loctite. If it was TTY bolt they actually stretch when put in the first time, become work hardened, and then hold an exact clamping force. The torque procedure is to torque them to a specific torque, then rotate the bolt a specific number of degrees. With this bolt just having a set torque with no additional rotation it is not a TTY bolt, so you should be good.
I'm confused Now? (OLD) So if I put the torque wrench on it at 92 Foot Lbs. and it moves just a little its OK.
 
GOT MY SPYDER BACK

Got my Spyder back today after having the sprocket replaced. Old part # was 2131. New part # on work order is 2134. But when I pulled the cover to check there were no numbers on the sprocket. Just an X on the edge at 180 degrees and one at 360 degrees.
 

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Sprocket

Got my Spyder back today after having the sprocket replaced. Old part # was 2131. New part # on work order is 2134. But when I pulled the cover to check there were no numbers on the sprocket. Just an X on the edge at 180 degrees and one at 360 degrees.

I'm just wondering if it's on backwards, I haven't seen one off yet, so I don't know if there's an offset to it!:dontknow:
 
I'm just wondering if it's on backwards, I haven't seen one off yet, so I don't know if there's an offset to it!:dontknow:

Crap, I was thinking the same thing. The replacement I got has 4 X's on the back. The sprocket has an offset on the numbered side, so if placed with the numbered side out, it would put it closer to the transmission. If it goes on with the X's out then that will move the sprocket away from the transmission.

Wondering where the belt tracks in the front with the X's out. If it isn't running against the outer flange, could it be that they are now installing that way to more center the belt? And if that's the case, have all the others been installed incorrectly at the factory? If so, maybe this will fix it!
 
Crap, I was thinking the same thing. The replacement I got has 4 X's on the back. The sprocket has an offset on the numbered side, so if placed with the numbered side out, it would put it closer to the transmission. If it goes on with the X's out then that will move the sprocket away from the transmission.

Wondering where the belt tracks in the front with the X's out. If it isn't running against the outer flange, could it be that they are now installing that way to more center the belt? And if that's the case, have all the others been installed incorrectly at the factory? If so, maybe this will fix it!

Or the dealer just put it on backwards? BRP needs to get on this because this thread is JUST the start of a Major problem that Most Owners (Not On Spyderlovers) Do Not even Know about. All the orders for replacement Sprockets should tell them something? My belt is off the front sprocket Just The amount that that the rear should be. The dealer and BRP Do Not admit to the problem because You Heard that on the Internet???:yikes:
 
Backwards Sprocket?

Well if my sprocket was put on backwards either deliberately or by accident, it’s running fine and I haven’t noticed any difference.
 
Well if my sprocket was put on backwards either deliberately or by accident, it’s running fine and I haven’t noticed any difference.

Hate to ask, but could you give us an idea of tracking? After stopping from going forward, where is the belt on the front and the rear sprocket?

Dummy me, I don't know squat about didilly, but it seems that if the belt is not against the outer flange (like most of ours), with the pulley being installed the way it is on yours, it would seem there would be less angular pull on the front pulley. And, what causes the deterioration is when the coating is worn off the splines off the pulley and the iron underneath starts powdering, causing the red dust.
 
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