F3 Front Sprocket Inspection

[Roadster Renovations]

Had a friend/customer loose his splines on his F3 Ltd at Spyder Adventures. We were able to verify by removing the plastic cover for the front sprocket. His did show the telltale rust around the front of the sprocket. I highly suggest that ryders periodically (ever month or so) pull that cover and look for the rust. Just looking under the byke is probably not good enough.
What happens, the splines on the sprocket start throwing metal shavings and they appear as red rust. By pulling that cover (2 min job) it should help you to catch it before it goes completely out and you are stranded.
My friend was very lucky and Blessed. Out of all the areas to ryde, many without cell phone reception, his grenaded (total part failure) right next to the Maggie Valley Inn at the stoplight!
You might not be so lucky!
I know this topic has been posted before, but to my knowledge no one has suggested pulling the inspection cover.

 

[Chupaca]

:agree: when mine came loose i found out by coasting down the hill to the garage with music off engine off helmet off. There will be a gnawrly sound coming from the left side by the peg. So now every few rydes I do that little coast. I did replace the sproket bolt and washer (make sure you replace the bolt and washer) I still believe that the engine heat and high torque stretched the threads causing the bolt to loose tension...:dontknow:

 

[SpyderF3-s]

My F3 stripped out a week ago just after 6000 miles after the first one was replaced. :banghead::banghead::banghead:
This time I am having them replace the shaft and sprocket.

 

[SPYD3R]

I bought my '15 F3 in Feb. of '15, and the sprocket was trash after a few thousand miles. I also heard of a rather large number of other F3's that had the sprocket go south on them. I would have thought that by now BRP would have come up with a 'FIX' for this issue. I really am starting to wonder what their engineering department head is thinking. Here's my suggestion BRP; CUSTOMER SERVICE & QUALITY PRODUCTS. Is that too much to ask? God knows, you charge the ultimate price for your products, give us the quality that goes with that price...
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Doc, have you heard of many F3T or Limited having this happen? I had only heard of it happening on 2015 F3 and was hoping that they had fixed the issue in 16 or 17 or on the T or Ltd. models.

 

[ABQSpyder]

So if there is any rust you should change sprocket!

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Doc, have you heard of many F3T or Limited having this happen? I had only heard of it happening on 2015 F3 and was hoping that they had fixed the issue in 16 or 17 or on the T or Ltd. models.

This was on a F3T. It had about 14-15K on it. He had pulled a trailer some of those miles. I have rode with him a lot and he probably never has tried a burnout. I *believe* that BRP has changed the number (different grade metal) for the '17 model. His was a '16.

 

[fencepost]

BRP needs to change the way the front pully fits on the trans main shaft. Current design the inside of the pully has a countersink that slips on the main shaft and belt alignment issues will cause uneven pressure on the front pully causing the splines and countersink to wear on the main shaft. A simple fix would be to increase the inside surface mating area with a thrust washer between the pully and main shaft.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

After reading this thread I pulled the plastic cover over the front sprocket and discovered red rust!:yikes: I have an appt. with my dealer later in the week to have a ball joint replaced. Now I have this to worry about and my dealer is three hours away. I hope I can make it without my sprocket imploding! I have 23,400 miles on my '15 F3-S.

 

[jcthorne]

JKMSPYDER
If the sprocket is still running fine, the dealer is just going to tell you there is nothing wrong. They will not replace the pulley until it fails.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Well ain’t that a *****! I hope my dealer and BRP will work with me on this. I don’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. I guess if they won’t, then it will be on my dime.��

 

[Roadster Renovations]

JKMSPYDER

2015 & 2016 had the different (softer) setup. They revised the number in 2017. I am assuming the pulley was made harder. Different part number.

 

[acpd22]

Just went and checked mine (2016 F3 Limited) and everything appeared normal. No signs of rust, just some road grime.:yes:

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Could rust on the sprocket mean normal wear and tear, or would this be a sign of eventual failure? I’m curious if any F3 owners know for sure.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Just went and checked mine (2016 F3 Limited) and everything appeared normal. No signs of rust, just some road grime.:yes:

Just out of curiosity, how many miles?

 

[SPYD3R]

Does anyone know the two different Part Numbers of the old & new sprocket? And which is which? And where is that number located?
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[Chupaca]

If you are inspecting them, and you are in there anyway, check to make sure they are still at the torque required for your model. What will make them start to go is the slop as they loosen and as you downshift and throttle up, they hammer at the splines. You have less control on the semi-automatics, so they hammer harder. It will not be loose to the touch, but just a few pounds off will do it. :thumbup:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Gene, what about Loctite? I guess if it's already broken the seal, should be reapplied? Or not?

 

[Chupaca]

Gene, what about Loctite? I guess if it's already broken the seal, should be reapplied? Or not?

You could go all the way and remove the bolt and apply locktite once again, but to those who are going to the dealer far aways, a re-torque will hold you. I ran mine for a week and all was good till my parts came in. I would say that if the torque is off and you are not taking it in, then like Doc said, re apply locktite and torque her down. :thumbup: Good catch, Doc...:bowdown:

 

[Wildrice]

:agree: when mine came loose i found out by coasting down the hill to the garage with music off engine off helmet off. There will be a gnawrly sound coming from the left side by the peg. So now every few rydes I do that little coast. I did replace the sproket bolt and washer (make sure you replace the bolt and washer) I still believe that the engine heat and high torque stretched the threads causing the bolt to loose tension...:dontknow:

You should ride slower--no acceleration above 3K rpm, & convert to chain drive--two (2) chains:roflblack:.