I have a 09 with 3200 miles. When I start it up when its cold outside it fires right up but it makes all kind of noise. Once it warms up it goes away. What could be wrong with it? I checked the oil and it was at the bottom of the dipstick. It's been 500 miles since last service. To me it sounds oil starved. But it was still on the dipstick when I first checked it and now its full and havnt messed with it since adding oil.
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cold starting issue.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
What kind of noise? How long does it take to go away? Does it go away gradually or all of a sudden?
BajaRon
Well-known member
Could be oil pressure related but 40 degrees isn't very cold. Even if you were using 20w-40 it should still flow just fine. If you were using a straight 30w or higher that might be an issue.
I wonder if your anti-drain valve is not working. You'll get valve train and probably cam chain noise with no oil. But even when changing oil I don't remember getting noise at startup. Could be a problem that you should get looked at.
Take it to the dealer and let them listen to it if you think it is serious.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Maybe someone else will jump in that has had the same problem. Diagnosing this over the internet isn't going to be easy otherwise.
Has it always done this or is this something new?
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It takes a couple of seconds on an initial start after a long rest for oil to reach all the components, build pressure, and fill the gaps. This is common and acceptable. The remaining oil film protects the components, but it is a thinner film than in the running engine. As an example, think of how the hydraulic lifters clatter for a few seconds on a cold start for some cars or bikes. My 2000 BMW is that way. I would not worry about it. It will be more noticeable when it is colder, due to increased clearances, but it should disappear in a second or two. If it lasts longer, or you get a low oil pressure warning, see your dealer. If it is making you nervous, get a second opinion from your dealer. He is the best one to advise you.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I don't get this on my Spyder and I leave it sit for a few weeks at times. I use Amsoil and that may be part of it but still, I'm surprised. Do you get this valve train noise at start-up Scotty?
It just started getting colder here, is there a betteroil I can use like m1. What weight should I use. Mine usually sits for days and weeks. Since I noticed it. I've been starting it up more often and just letting it run for a while. Last Sunday was the first long ride I've had on it, 200mi round trip. I bet it was breathing fumes, because I thought I could make it home. 30 miles to go and the fuel light came on and I stopped at the nearest gas station. 196 miles to a tank going 70 seemed good to me.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Yes, I do, especially on the RTs. Much more pronounced in real cold weather, or after an oil change. On my 2010 it was common after a long, hot ride, too. None of the Spyders is as bad as the BMW, though. Those are renowned for this effect. I do think that the use of full synthetic oils would probably reduce the situation. That clings to parts better, and Nancy's GS seems to be less prone to the effect, although that also does not get ridden in cold weather much, so it is hard to tell. I still think it is normal, at least here up north, but the best bet for any concerned owner is to see the dealer, explain, and leave it overnight for them to check in the morning. Of course there is also the old drag racing approach....."Drive 'er 'til she blows!"
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Campverdefela
New member
You couldn't have too much wrong if your getting that kind of mileage...good for you.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Really, you're not going to get a good answer here because there are 'Noises' and then there are 'NOISES'. There just isn't any way for us to diagnose it over the Internet. Sounds like nothing to worry about but still, it would be foolish for us to say don't worry about it. A visit to your dealership will both calm your nerves and put you on record as having a concern as far as warranty goes.
Let us know what they say.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There is no doubt that there are better oil options than what BRP specs out for the Spyder. The debate is whether or not a better oil is necessary. I use Amsoil 10w-40, but there are other improved choices out there as well. 10w-40 weight is just fine. BRP's 'Blended' oil is Castrol 10w-40 and that is what most Spyder owners use (as recommended by BRP).
Don't get me wrong. BRP's Castol oils are a good product, nothing wrong with their oil. All I am saying is there are scientifically and real world tested lubricants out there that will give you better service. I believe in giving people all the information and letting them decide what is best for them.
My real gripe is that what BRP sells as 'Full Synthetic' is not a true synthetic oil. This is pretty much the overwhelming standard these days so I'm not picking on BRP here. This marketing slight-of-hand is due to a stuipd court case allowing motor oil producers to mislead customers in the area of 'Synthetic' oils. (But that is another story).
The end result is market place confusion. Consumers don't realize the huge difference between fake synthetics and true synthetics. This is how major oil companies can sell the less expensive to produce 'Synthetic' oil for much less than Amsoil or other producers of the much better and more expensive, true synthetic products.
I used to use Mobil 1 and was very happy with it. But I am not sure they still make a wet clutch compliant product nor am I sure they still make a true synthetic. I'm sure you could research this and find out though.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
I don't keep up with it anymore. It used to be Mobil 1, Amsoil and a few others. I'm very happy with Amsoil so I don't spend the time to see who else is doing it. Try Googleing it maybe.
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