2014 Can Am Spyder with Error code P0976 - any ideas on this will be appreciated?

[UPSMAN]

Okay Everyone,

I took my 2014 RT (SE6) out my the Garage today, where I'd had it on a trickle charger all winter. I checked the oil; air in the Tires; everything looked good, so I started the Spyder up with no issues; let it run for about a minute; checked the oil, it was good; jumped on it and tried to put in in gear; the engine revved up a little, but nothing happened; the rpms went to normal and the Transmission Icon went on. The Oil was changed last fall; no issues; drove it for about 500 Miles with no issues before I parked it in the garage for winter in November.

Hooked it up to BUDS, and it showed one error code - P0976. I am not an expert, but was hoping for some advice before I tow it 120 miles to the closet Spyder shop in Billings Mt. I had it parked in Neutral for the Winter.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

John

 

[Jetfixer]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

 

[UPSMAN]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

Thank you for the quick reply. I will have to look at the BUDS manual to see how to do those tests. Like I said, I’m not an expert. Will let you know what happens tomorrow morning. For now, I’m just frustrated. Going to have a beer. If there’s a tutorial out there, I’ll try to find it online.

 

[UPSMAN]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

UPDATE:

Hooked BUDS to Spyder and did the TCM Activation Tests; the following Failed or Passed as shown:

• Check Clutch Pressure Error - Failed Clutch pressure too high
• Check line pressure Error - Failed because of nonlinear line pressure behavior?
• Check Shifting Hydraulics - Failed to shift up because interlock stuck deployed or Dog on Dog (not sure what this means?)
• Check Clutch pressure ripple - Clutch pressure ripple too high
• Check line pressure ripple - Line Pressure too high.

• HCM Ventilation - Passed
• Self Check sequence - Pass
• Check clutch pressure hysteresis - Pass
• Check line pressure hysteresis - Pass

• TCM - voltage 14.2v
• TCM Oil Temp 191

Any ideas???

This does not make any sense, the RT has only 8860 miles on it, I drive it like a old man, hardly over the speed limit, never over 75mph, and I drive mostly in town and on Sunday afternoon drives, never over 2 hours.

It was working perfectly before I parked it for winter storage in our garage.

Hmm... very frustrating!