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bike shut down while riding and not go into limp mode.and now have engine noise.

There is no "low oil" sensor, only a low oil pressure sensor. It will not prevent the engine from starting, but it will trigger a limp mode after it times out following the strat sequence.

Can you elaborate a bit more on the "strat sequence"? Not familiar with that one! :roflblack:
 
There is no "low oil" sensor, only a low oil pressure sensor. It will not prevent the engine from starting, but it will trigger a limp mode after it times out following the strat sequence.



Ah, good to know thanks!

Now if I can only remember that.
 
Ok guys her is the results of todays findindings Had batery charger on all night. full tank of gas and oil is reg on stick. NO CODES

Followed the directions to retrive codes and " NONE " just a blank screen !

turned key on and no limp modes and yes it made me use mode as always. YEA/With my fingers crossed i hit the start and it barly started and died instantly even for that split second it did not sound good ( i think motor ) this is going to suck ass with only 4123 miles does any one know if ( CAN AM / BRP COVER THE ENGINE UNDER WARRENTY) well i think it is time to take it to dealer as much as i hate to say.got it loaded in trailer now

BUT

If any one can give me any more advise im game to try . I was going to break out the tools and start looking for something ovious but was afriad that when it goes to dealer they might have a **** fit that i started taking things apart.

thanks chris
 
Ok guys her is the results of todays findindings Had batery charger on all night. full tank of gas and oil is reg on stick. NO CODES

Followed the directions to retrive codes and " NONE " just a blank screen !

turned key on and no limp modes and yes it made me use mode as always. YEA/With my fingers crossed i hit the start and it barly started and died instantly even for that split second it did not sound good ( i think motor ) this is going to suck ass with only 4123 miles does any one know if ( CAN AM / BRP COVER THE ENGINE UNDER WARRENTY) well i think it is time to take it to dealer as much as i hate to say.got it loaded in trailer now

BUT

If any one can give me any more advise im game to try . I was going to break out the tools and start looking for something ovious but was afriad that when it goes to dealer they might have a **** fit that i started taking things apart.

thanks chris
First, you can only retrieve active codes. There are very few without the engine running or the problem actively happening, so it is no surprise that you saw none. It probably does rule out a throttle body or something else persistent, however. Your dealer can pull up the past codes and their sequence with BUDS, to try to determine what is wrong.

I would highly recommend that you check your battery connections (at the battery itself and not at the jump start terminals) for tightness and lack of corrosion, before proceeding further. I would also check the battery voltage in a couple of tests with a multimeter. A multimeter can be obtained inexpensively if you don't have one. A good battery should read 13 or better right after charging, although 12.7 up is acceptable. After sitting overnight or at least for several hours after removing from the charger, it should show 12.6 or above. You can also do a crude load test. The battery should read 10.0 or better while cranking with the throttle held wide open (to prevent starting).

Because you said you had just filled with gas, the gas is still the primary suspect. Bad gas or water in the gas will do this readily. Your symptms are classic for bad gas. As I said above, siphon out as much gas as you can (if you can), add Marine Stabil, Seafoam, or Startron, and fill with fresh, name brand gas. It may take numerous tries before the fuel system cleans out enough to keep running. If it does start and run, run out that tank of gas and then repeat the procedure with the stabilizer/drier and good gas.

If these are not successful, have the Spyder towed to a dealer. In about 90% of the cases like this the battery, battery connections, or the fuel supply are at fault, however.
 
The funky sounds that were being made, is a major source of concern... :shocked:
Scotty's right; as usual... take your readings directly from the battery, and give some more thought to the fuel that the bike has been using.
If these two issues don't yield a potential source of the problem; get ti to the dealer; GOOD LUCK!! :thumbup:
And I AM sorry that I doubted you! :opps:
 
Another suggestion...don't be afraid of the Spyder. Keep trying to start it until the battery gives out. If it's the TB it will start after a time. I had a bad TB and rode it for 6 months and about 4,000 miles before I had it changed. If it starts, then dies, start again until it starts correctly. The first few seconds it runs, it will surge and act crazy, then die. Eventually the TB will set right and you are good to go. Another possibility is a leaking vacuum line and that's a pistol to find. I have had both these issues and never stopped riding.
 
Bad Gas

Sound to me that it may be a case that you got some bad gas with water in it. It happened to me once with another bike after a long ride and before I got home I always fill the tank with gas. I almost didn't make it home because it was cutting out and back firing all the way home. I went back the the station that I got the gas from and the manager said that the attendent at the time was suppose to turn the pumps off whenever they are getting a tank load of gas as it will stir up the water that has settled in the under ground tank. I hope this is your problem and its a easy fix to drain the tank as stated above. I would also replace the fuel filter. Keep us informed on your problem.
 
UP date i took all the plastic off and drained all gas and recharged battery ( had 12 .3 befor i put charger on ) checked all battery conections and looked over motor for any thing ovious.put new gas in and pushed the botton Same results. So off to dealer gave them the wole storey and the made coments like has oil screen been removed ? ??? bets me was my anwser and then they tried to start it and quickly said not good / well here goes $320.00 for them to look at it and i have half of the bike apart.If their is any good news they said they have never seen a motor go bad. Time for all of us to start preying.they said it will be a week before they will let me know what they find i will keep everyone posted. have a safe NEW year to all and thanks for all the advice.

chris
 
UP date i took all the plastic off and drained all gas and recharged battery ( had 12 .3 befor i put charger on ) checked all battery conections and looked over motor for any thing ovious.put new gas in and pushed the botton Same results. So off to dealer gave them the wole storey and the made coments like has oil screen been removed ? ??? bets me was my anwser and then they tried to start it and quickly said not good / well here goes $320.00 for them to look at it and i have half of the bike apart.If their is any good news they said they have never seen a motor go bad. Time for all of us to start preying.they said it will be a week before they will let me know what they find i will keep everyone posted. have a safe NEW year to all and thanks for all the advice.

chris

I put money its either the throttle body sensor (dirty, defective) or the throttle body itself. Good luck!!!
 
They could have hooked up the laptop and gotten a code in less than 10 minutes and they charged you $320 for doing absolutely NOTHING! RUN!
 
They could have hooked up the laptop and gotten a code in less than 10 minutes and they charged you $320 for doing absolutely NOTHING! RUN!

In this case I certainly have to agree. Diagnostics not involving a teardown should not cost more than an hour's labor...andf that is a stretch but a fairly typical rate. If the engine has to be torn down, the ante would go up, but they should explain that after the initial BUDS check and inspection.
 
Not to invade the thread, but what makes the throttle bodys bad? Too tight a clearance making codes be thrown?


I had a throttle body I paid a $1000 for before go bad and they took it back, cleaned it up, reduced the clearances and it's been good for years now.

(not on a motorcycle to be clear)

Wondering if it's that type of problem?

.
 
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