Belt alignment - bad motor sprocket

[ChasingWind]

All the sudden my drive belt was off the back sprocket - tried for a week to get it aligned - it would either go way in and rub against the motor or hang off a 1/4 inch -- and then I noticed the belt started to loose teeth after pulling belt noticed motor drive sprocket wobbling all over the place - the splines on he drive sprocket where toast - luckily the splines on the drive shaft are ok -

So if your belt all the sudden goes out of alignment make sure to check the front drive sprocket for play - my is an 08 with 38000 plus miles on her.

Just passing on info

 

[jerpinoy]

What did cause of the problem?

 

[Firefly]

It's important to have the front sprocket torqued to the correct spec. They increased it from what they originally had them set at from the factory. I can't recall for sure but I think it was increased to around 85 ft/lb.

I'd get a new sprocket and bolt for sure.

 

[NancysToy]

It is also important to make sure the belt is adjusted to the proper spec. The first specs were too tight, and cause sprocket or shaft damage...in conjuction with a machining problem with the sprockets and failure to retorque the bolt during maintenace. The spec was reduced a couple of times.

 

[ChasingWind]

Anybody know what the correct torque is -- new sprocket and bolt should be here tomorrow - the old sprocket is toast the bolt was not loose so don't know how the sprocket just just wore its teeth off - too soft ?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[retread]

It might be a good idea to check the countershaft bearings and endplay, if the belt was too tight, there's a chance they're bad. A friend of mine started out with the front sprocket, ended up with a whole lot more.

john

 

[Big Arm]

Anybody know what the correct torque is --

Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m ....(81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

 

[ChasingWind]

Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[boborgera]

Anybody know what the correct torque is -- new sprocket and bolt should be here tomorrow - the old sprocket is toast the bolt was not loose so don't know how the sprocket just just wore its teeth off - too soft ?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk H

Luck I guess, When my sprocket went it also took out the shaft [08Gs]
Then the engine had to be split to change the shaft...

 

[ChasingWind]

Yep got lucky - what a pain in the *** to change a belt and do an oil change -- here some pics


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Illinois Boy]

Yep got lucky - what a pain in the *** to change a belt and do an oil change -- here some pics


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I have had suspicions of this occurring on these machines eventually... much like you'll hear about it on snowmobiles occasionally.

Some important info would be how you ride your Spyder. When you shift, how fast you typically ride, type of overall riding, and etc just to get an idea and establish whether there could be a pattern/reference to this type of damage/failure.

Any info shared would be appreciated...

 

[ChasingWind]

Ok got new sprocket and obviously BRP knows they had a bad sprocket design because the new sprocket is totally redesigned--- so if you have a front sprocket w no back catch on it or black in color -- you need to pro actively change it out because it will fail -- and could take the drive shaft out with it.

Photos 1st old replace - 2nd new w back belt guard so belt can't come off the back and rub a groove in your casing


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[ChasingWind]

I have 39898 miles on mine ride her almost every day to Seattle some time stop and go and then take her out for some fun on weekends more aggressive riding average about 12000 a year on 08 - BRP did warranty my rear fender mounts because they broke off. Will send this to BRP too and see - BRP should of sent a bullion out about the sprocket - went on a 12.4 hour ride right before I discovered bad sprocket - got very lucky - to make it home.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Chupaca]

Interesting..!!

we have an RS 2012 and the front sprocket is totally different. They must have made further changes..but you should be back on the road in no time...!! :thumbup:

 

[ChasingWind]

Yep back riding but missed the hottest 4 days in Seattle lol ---
If BRP was proactive could of saved me a new belt $300 and I feel sorry for the person who takes this to a dealer to get done - dealer rates will empty your pockets I'm out $420 just for parts and my time - there really is no way to tell if the sprocket is failing unless you take your belt off to see if there is any play --- I change my oil every 3000 miles and very proactive on maintenance - would of been nice to get a heads up about defective sprocket.

Just my 2 cents -

Overall I love my spyder and this is just a little hiccup.

Get out and ride!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[spyder3rdr]

I stripped the center out of a front sprocket 2 years ago ... stripped it clean like it had been drilled , this time (2nd) time replacing it , BRP has an updated (better) design for the front sprocket . I wish they had done more R & D before they put it on the market ... it would have saved me a lot of $$$

 

[Big Arm]

--- I change my oil every 3000 miles and very proactive on maintenance - would of been nice to get a heads up about defective sprocket.

The last several times that I've changed oil, I loosened the drive sprocket bolt, and re-torqued it. Dosen't hurt to check it each time. JMHO

 

[ChasingWind]

That's the problem the bolt was not loose - the spines in the sprocket wore out - No way to tell sprocket bad unless you took belt off - no wobble w belt on only after I removed the belt could I tell the sprocket was toast!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[ARCTIC]

This whole deal concerns me a little:shocked:

 

[NancysToy]

That's the problem the bolt was not loose - the spines in the sprocket wore out - No way to tell sprocket bad unless you took belt off - no wobble w belt on only after I removed the belt could I tell the sprocket was toast!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

There were two factors involved with the sprocket problems on the early GS. The primary offender was a belt tension spec that was too tight. It was reduced twice. Ideally, your belt should be adjusted to the newest 2008-2012 spec by a dealer using the sonic gauge. Use of a Krikit-2 belt tension gauge will suffice if you compare readings to a properly tensioned belt to get a baseline. A quick check can be done by twisting the belt midway between sprockets with your thumb and forefinger. If it twists 90 degrees with some difficulty, it is about right. If less, your belt tension needs to be reduced and even the new sprocket is in jeopardy.

The second factor was due to the sprocket itself. The splines were not quite deep enougn on some, so the bolt did not bottom out the sprocket. In time, the splines wore in and the bolt loosened, leading to damage. The loosened bolts may not seem loose, they are just insufficiently torqued, allowing a tiny bit of movement of the sprocket. BRP issued a service bulletin to loosen and retorque the bolts after 6,000 miles. Retorqued bolts were to be marked with an "X". If your bolt was not marked, the service bulletin was probably not performed.

The sprockets really weren't defective, except for some that were insufficiently broached. They were improved, but at least partially for different reasons. The design was changed primarily to allow use of a damper for the SE version. Even if your Spyder were still under warranty, a claim for the sprocket would not be covered unless it could be shown that the belt was retensioned after the spec changed, checked for the proper (revised) tension at the appropriate service intervals, and the service bulletin retorquing was completed. I might add that a common reason for the belt walking out on the sprockets is bad rear wheel bearings. Better check them while you are at it.