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Accessories wires adjustment

xpeschon

MOgang Member
2015 F3--OK I am sure its been discussed somewhere in the many list of topics however----We all know that on the F3 (and other models I'm sure) all three of the accessories wires on become HOT when the engine is running----My question is this--Can a person adjust this in any way shape or form in order for the accessories to kick in when the key is on the ON position without the engine running? If this is possible could you please provide the steps to accomplish this. If not then of course I will live with it but I am sure with all the smart guys and gals here there is a way to do this and I am sure people have. I Thank you in advance for any and all help. Joe
 
Geez, I started reading & thought the wires became physically hot ( at a higher temperature) when the engine was running. Like they are located too close to the exhaust.
 
Power on

I don't know if this helps o0n the F3.
On my ST the load shedding applies power to
the lights in the accessory switches whenever the key is on (engine
running or not). I tapped into this circuit to provide a signal
to the relay and fuse block I use for accessories.
 
I don't know if this helps o0n the F3.
On my ST the load shedding applies power to
the lights in the accessory switches whenever the key is on (engine
running or not). I tapped into this circuit to provide a signal
to the relay and fuse block I use for accessories.

It helps but I would really like to use the accessory wires that are already wired into the harness rather then tapping into the load shedding power. I am sure it can be done some way but heck maybe not.. Time will tell as member post there experiences as you did and I truly thank you for that. Joe
 
On the F3, the customer accessories power connections are only on when the engine is running. There is no option to change this other than running your own circuits.

On the RT and ST there is a fuse that can be moved but that is not available on the F3.
 
On the 2010 RTs: the frunk button was only hot when the engine was running... They changed it in 2011 so that the key only had to be on...
I recall that somebody in here figured out how to tinker with the wiring to correct this oversight on the earlier model.. If you can find that wiring diagram: it might help give you some ideas... :dontknow:
 
You can tap into the gps power and that will turn on without running, just the key.

That my friend is what I am going to do although I don't have a GPS as you already know it sounds like it is going to be wired for one. Sounds good I will give it a shot. Joe
 
That my friend is what I am going to do although I don't have a GPS as you already know it sounds like it is going to be wired for one. Sounds good I will give it a shot. Joe

For a start there are 4 places not just 3 to hook up to, this is the fourth its the GPS plug that comes on when the key is turned on you find it behind the small panel right hand side you have to remove the riders seat see photo.

12 volt power socket copy.jpg
 
For a start there are 4 places not just 3 to hook up to, this is the fourth its the GPS plug that comes on when the key is turned on you find it behind the small panel right hand side you have to remove the riders seat see photo.

View attachment 143064

PERFECT... I didn't know about that one till Lamonster told me as well. That's where I'm gonna go to hook up my Stereo for sure.. Other accessories can be hooked up fine when I start the engine but didn't want my Stereo to be like that.. I Thank you as well.....
 
Man Bob I hadn't seen this photo for a while.. No I wish I did thought.. I won't take to long to put APES on the F3.... Well let me think about that!!! I have to tell you, it was a fun machine to ride that's for sure... Oh man I miss that sucker...... Joe
When you get the F3 all "Aped-Up", you definitely have to get us some pictures of it!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
(Whenever folks start talking about putting a higher bar on their Spyder: I pull out that picture!)
 
When you get the F3 all "Aped-Up", you definitely have to get us some pictures of it!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
(Whenever folks start talking about putting a higher bar on their Spyder: I pull out that picture!)[/QUOT

Love it... It's in the future but it's gonna happen. I found the GPS plug. Thank you. That will work perfect for the stereo.
 
PERFECT... I didn't know about that one till Lamonster told me as well. That's where I'm gonna go to hook up my Stereo for sure.. Other accessories can be hooked up fine when I start the engine but didn't want my Stereo to be like that.. I Thank you as well.....
You will want to check the amp rating of that plug. If your stereo draws several amps you would be safer to connect into the GPS supply for only the power to trigger a relay. Run the wire for the stereo from the battery through the relay to the stereo. This gives you the function you want without possibly overloading the circuit the GPS connects to. Spyder circuits typically don't have much reserve capacity.
 
You will want to check the amp rating of that plug. If your stereo draws several amps you would be safer to connect into the GPS supply for only the power to trigger a relay. Run the wire for the stereo from the battery through the relay to the stereo. This gives you the function you want without possibly overloading the circuit the GPS connects to. Spyder circuits typically don't have much reserve capacity.[/QUOT

I understand what you are saying and can relate to it somewhat. As for a relay I am going to have to look at a wiring diagram in order to actually understand the concept a bit or just prep everything and take it to a shop and have them do it which I really hate to do. I do have some mechanic skills, not many but as far as electrical skills they are minimal to say the least.. I will figure out something I suppose but I do understand the reason for doing this. Thank you very much for that bit of advise..
 
You will want to check the amp rating of that plug. If your stereo draws several amps you would be safer to connect into the GPS supply for only the power to trigger a relay. Run the wire for the stereo from the battery through the relay to the stereo. This gives you the function you want without possibly overloading the circuit the GPS connects to. Spyder circuits typically don't have much reserve capacity.

I think I have decided to run it through a relay. 4 prong one. Having said that in my research theres nothing about the ground wire coming from the GPS plug itself, it only talks about the red wire and where it gets connected to the relay;; Question--do you need to ground the wire that is coming off the GPS plug??? I am thinking this needs to be done. I know there is the ground wire from the relay and if the plug ground from the GPS plugs needs grounded I am assuming I can use the same ground point.. Thank you for any help available in this matter..
 
I think I have decided to run it through a relay. 4 prong one. Having said that in my research theres nothing about the ground wire coming from the GPS plug itself, it only talks about the red wire and where it gets connected to the relay;; Question--do you need to ground the wire that is coming off the GPS plug??? I am thinking this needs to be done. I know there is the ground wire from the relay and if the plug ground from the GPS plugs needs grounded I am assuming I can use the same ground point.. Thank you for any help available in this matter..
You should connect both wires from the GPS plug to the coil of the relay. That will be two of the prongs. The other two prongs connect into the + lead from the battery to the stereo and acts as a switch. Connect the stereo ground to a good ground point on the bike frame or on the negative terminal of the battery.
 
You could also get the FZ fuse box and wire your stereo to the fuse box. This is what I use. Depending on where you put your fuse in, it will make that circuit hot all the time (you would use a switch on your accessory) or hot with key on and running.

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