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2024 will Crank, but just won't start! More later...

7

700wolvy

Member
Finally got the USB issue fixed. Went to go for a ride. Cranks just fine just doesn't start. Charged the battery with trickle charger 'til done. No help. Hooked up my jump box. No help. I am leaving town for 1.5 weeks to hunt. When I get back, get help to push it on to a trailer, and get it to dealer, I will let y'all know what they find.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
700wolvy said:
Finally got the USB issue fixed. Went to go for a ride. Cranks just fine just doesn't start. Charged the battery with trickle charger 'til done. No help. Hooked up my jump box. No help. I am leaving town for 1.5 weeks to hunt. When I get back, get help to push it on to a trailer, and get it to dealer, I will let y'all know what they find.
Click to expand...

Had the same problem on my 2020 RTL back in September of '22.
Tech at the dealer used WOT "wide open throttle" to get it started. Note: "not too long of starter bursts so as to burn out the starter!"

Then have the dealer check for software upgrades, low compression when starting!

That worked for me, and I have not had a problem since, YMMV (y) Bill GOOD LUCK!
 
Agree if turning over & just not firing 😣 caution attempting long cranking tries or not allowing starter to cool between next attempt, and that is if you can hear any attempt at firing. If you hear nothing - you've gotta check the cables, plugs, & likely get it to a dealer anyway. If it was the kill switch, it would not even turn over.
 
Update: Tried the WOT trick. No help. So, I went on my 2 week hunting trip. On my return, I hooked up the trailer and was about to push the Spyder on to the trailer. I thought I would try to start one more time. Started after only a couple very slow cranks due to battery being low. Went for a ride. Stopped at a gas station and filled it up. Restarted just fine. Got home and hooked up to trickle charger. So, moral of the story, I have no idea why it would not start. I am scared to death to ride this thing now on any long distance jaunts but, hey living on the edge and I have AAA.
 
700wolvy said:
Update: Tried the WOT trick. No help. So, I went on my 2 week hunting trip. On my return, I hooked up the trailer and was about to push the Spyder on to the trailer. I thought I would try to start one more time. Started after only a couple very slow cranks due to battery being low. Went for a ride. Stopped at a gas station and filled it up. Restarted just fine. Got home and hooked up to trickle charger. So, moral of the story, I have no idea why it would not start. I am scared to death to ride this thing now on any long distance jaunts but, hey living on the edge and I have AAA.
Click to expand...

When you get a chance, visit your dealer or someone with BUDS to up-grade your software for the "low compression when starting".

A software check-up may prevent future problems! :thumbup: Bill
 
Thanks for update - Also, it could have been the bad gas was finally purged, now winter blends are getting mixed in at the pumps & there's still ethanol troubles.

http://pure-gas.org

I hope keeps you going & have no problems next season.
 
ulflyer said:
If battery is really low, the trickle charger may not be enough. Put regular charger on.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yea. Did that too. When it did start, it was after sitting for 3 weeks with a low charge. It was a weak crank. When it didn't start, full charge and spinning like a blender. :) So, weak battery may not be as big of an issue on the 24s. We'll see.
 
Forewarned is fore-armed. Before I began touring, I bought a boost jump starter. Had two Rugged Geeks, each a piece of crap; now I have a Noco Boost Plus GB40. Used the first Rugged Geek locally when first battery gave up the ghost. Don't leave home without one, particularly if your Spyder has one of those cheap Chinese batteries.
 
JayBros said:
Forewarned is forearmed. Before I began touring, I bought a boost jump starter. Had two Rugged Geeks, each a piece of crap; now I have a Noco Boost Plus GB40. Used the first Rugged Geek locally when first battery gave up the ghost. Don't leave home without one, particularly if your Spyder has one of those cheap Chinese batteries.
Click to expand...

If he has one of those batteries, I would dump it before leaving!
 
Check your battery connections. I'd remove both, clean all contact surfaces and reconnect. Also check your ground connection.
 
Make sure you get things wrench tight on the battery connections, not just screwdriver tight - there's a difference, and it is important!
 
I second the call to get rid of the chinese battery if you have one in your Spyder. I got rid of mine in the first yr. It turned slower than the Yusa battery I had in my other Spyder. I got a Yusa battery on Amazon; filled it and let sit; then put it on my battery charger. Been all good since.
 
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seaweed said:
Jay what were the issues that you had with the 2 rugged geeks?
Click to expand...

In the first one, about a year after I purchased it, so just out of warranty, the lithium battery began to swell, and it popped open the plastic encasement. Rugged Geek folks sold me a second one at half price. The second one, again shortly after the warranty expired, just totally crapped out, no juice, no indicator light, no nothing. I used the first one twice - The first time to start the Spyder in a Wally World parking lot when I knew my original battery was going south, but I let it die because I wanted the experience of using the jump pack in a non-urgent situation. The second was to help a damsel in distress when her vehicle died in another store parking lot. In the Wally lot, I spent more time explaining to curious passers-by what I was doing than it took to jump start the Spyder.
 
Thanks Jay. I had noticed my Rugged Geek, which was a lithium battery, began to swell. It holds a charge okay and will charge up quickly via a USB. I was concerned about it leaking whatever into the trunk of the Spyder. I have glued the case back closed but for how long that will last, who knows. I have never needed it but "Just In Case".

I looked at some of the reviews of the Noco Boost Plus GB40 and they seem to have problems also, but not a leaking problem.

Does anyone have recommendations for other battery packs?
 
Used my Noco Boost GB40 for the first time today on a ride. Stopped to help a Hispanic gent in a Lincoln Aviator SUV w/- a big-ass V8 and flat battery. Jump pack started the engine three times but it would not run continuously. Gent showed me LF side of the engine where there was a hole in the timing chain cover. Communication problems prevented learning more about the when/why but I suspect timing chain tension device failure and chain slip at least one tooth. GB40 recharged in a couple of hours after ride and back in Spyder trunk.
 
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