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998cc 2015 ST won't start easily, but will finally - any ideas?

dsteve931

New member
No crank - have to play with key, turn steering wheel, keep pushing starter button, finally it will crank and start - any ideas
 
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:dontknow: Play with key? Wiggle or swapping? & turning? Like loose connection or wire short?? Double check the battery connections are clean & tight, load test the battery &check it's got a good full charge. Double check yourself (operator errors) on starting procedures: mode button; kill switch position; stepping on the brake pedal (I believe it will only start without the brake pedal depressed if it's in N & maybe has the P-brake on!)
 
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Check the "earth end" frame mount of the ground cable. Might be loose or not making full contact.

Good luck, :thumbup: Bill
 
Check your battery. Engine off battery should read 12.6V DC minimum. Running voltage across battery is supposed to be 13.5 to 14.5 VDC @ 4000 RPM. (These values are for my 2019 F3 LTD). I would also monitor Battery voltage while turning on key and pressing start button. Battery test per 2019 F3 LTD service manual: place 150A load on battery for 5 seconds. Bat voltage should not drop below 10V. If it does, replace battery.
As other post stated check and clean battery posts and grounds on bike. If the battery is good, I recommend you purchase a Service manual to identify all of the ground locations for your Spyder. Hopefully you can find one for your 2015 ST.

Mike
 
After reading multiple discussions of the less than perfect batteries that come in a Spyder, I bought a Battery Tender Jr.

https://www.batterytender.com/junior

It comes with a set of standard battery terminal clamps, which are removable from the wires, so you can do a "permanent" connection to your battery terminals.
It's got a plug in the middle of the cable so you can disconnect the part that plugs into an electrical outlet from the cable you attach to the battery terminals.

When I'm not riding I plug my Spyder into the battery tender.
 
Check your battery. Engine off battery should read 12.6V DC minimum. Running voltage across battery is supposed to be 13.5 to 14.5 VDC @ 4000 RPM. (These values are for my 2019 F3 LTD). I would also monitor Battery voltage while turning on key and pressing start button. Battery test per 2019 F3 LTD service manual: place 150A load on battery for 5 seconds. Bat voltage should not drop below 10V. If it does, replace battery.
As other post stated check and clean battery posts and grounds on bike. If the battery is good, I recommend you purchase a Service manual to identify all of the ground locations for your Spyder. Hopefully you can find one for your 2015 ST.

Mike

For our Power hungry Spyders, I've found on numerous occasions/multiple Spyders/right across the range that if the battery voltage under load ever gets below 12 volts, then you are extremely likely to have problems along the lines of those described! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' - Again! :thumbup:

And quite a few have been caught out by that 'Frame mount' end of the Earth strap behind the battery/alongside the DPS in the steering tunnel being loose & causing issues - me included! :opps:

Ps: you really don't want to leave your Spyder on a Tender ALL the time that you're not riding, cos over time, that can actually cause battery failures that can easily trap you out with a dead battery well away from home!! :banghead:

You should ONLY put it on a tender if you're not going to ride your Spyder/Ryker again within the next week or so; and ideally, when you do ride your Spyder/Ryker, you should aim to give it at least 30 mins of riding at more than 'just around town' sorta speeds!! Despite the alternators on the 1330 Spyders putting out their highest charging output at just above idle, most battery types NEED the longer charge at a lower voltage that a longer and faster ride will give them just to put back the voltage used by starting the Spyder ONCE, let alone to get anywhere close to topped up :shocked: So just tootling around town for 30 minutes or so won't/can't do that, which won't be good for your battery in the long run, and probably won't be anywhere near as good for you either!! So if you can, take your Spyder/Ryker for a 30+ minute ride out of town every week or so; and if you are going to ride it again within a week, leave it off the tender! :lecturef_smilie: Only use the tender for longer breaks between rides, or for your winter lay-over, if applicable! :thumbup:
 
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I took delivery of my new Spyder in mid-March, and I just checked, and have only ridden it 385 miles in that time.

150 miles of that was a single round trip to the dealer.

So ignoring that one trip, I'm only averaging 70-80 miles per month.
And other than one trip that included about 5 miles at freeway speeds, most of the time I'm riding at 35 mph, although there's one stretch in town of 45 mph.
And yes, I've been varying the engine RPMs while driving and not allowing it to stay at constant RPM

Yes, I need to ride more. Yes, I want to ride more.

But I'm still getting comfortable with riding my Spyder, and only three times have I had it on the freeway.

So yes, I do need the battery tender until I start riding more, even though it means I'll probably need to replace the battery sooner than if I rode more.
I'm a long time AAA member, and added AAA Motorcycle coverage when I bought my Spyder, so I'm covered if something goes wrong.


As I was writing this I started thinking about an argument I recently had with the service department at the local Honda dealer.
I bought a Honda Ridgeline in June 2023.

Last fall I got a call from the Honda dealer's service department, wanting to to schedule my Ridgeline for it's 50,000 mile service.
I told them I didn't have that many miles on my Ridgeline, and they tried to insist I did, and that I should check and then call them back to schedule the needed service.
Honda's have a Maintenance Minder system that displays a little wrench icon when it's time to have something done, and when it does you can scroll through a list of codes that tell you what needs to be done.
My Ridgeline still hasn't told me it's time for it's first oil change, which is the first item on the maintenance list.
But, since my Ridgeline is just about a year old I'll be taking it in soon for it's first oil and filter change, since oil change interval is when the maintenance minder says so, or one year, whichever comes first.

And I'll probably have to argue with them about changing the oil filter, as Honda says you only need to change the filter every other oil change.


And now I'm feeling like some grouchy old guy, that keeps arguing with all those young whippersnappers.
 
I took delivery of my new Spyder in mid-March, and I just checked, and have only ridden it 385 miles in that time.

150 miles of that was a single round trip to the dealer.

So ignoring that one trip, I'm only averaging 70-80 miles per month.
And other than one trip that included about 5 miles at freeway speeds, most of the time I'm riding at 35 mph, although there's one stretch in town of 45 mph.
And yes, I've been varying the engine RPMs while driving and not allowing it to stay at constant RPM

Yes, I need to ride more. Yes, I want to ride more.

But I'm still getting comfortable with riding my Spyder, and only three times have I had it on the freeway.

So yes, I do need the battery tender until I start riding more, even though it means I'll probably need to replace the battery sooner than if I rode more.
I'm a long time AAA member, and added AAA Motorcycle coverage when I bought my Spyder, so I'm covered if something goes wrong.


As I was writing this I started thinking about an argument I recently had with the service department at the local Honda dealer.
I bought a Honda Ridgeline in June 2023.

Last fall I got a call from the Honda dealer's service department, wanting to to schedule my Ridgeline for it's 50,000 mile service.
I told them I didn't have that many miles on my Ridgeline, and they tried to insist I did, and that I should check and then call them back to schedule the needed service.
Honda's have a Maintenance Minder system that displays a little wrench icon when it's time to have something done, and when it does you can scroll through a list of codes that tell you what needs to be done.
My Ridgeline still hasn't told me it's time for it's first oil change, which is the first item on the maintenance list.
But, since my Ridgeline is just about a year old I'll be taking it in soon for it's first oil and filter change, since oil change interval is when the maintenance minder says so, or one year, whichever comes first.

And I'll probably have to argue with them about changing the oil filter, as Honda says you only need to change the filter every other oil change.


And now I'm feeling like some grouchy old guy, that keeps arguing with all those young whippersnappers.
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