I have a jump/boost box in all my vehicles. When the Spyder would not start, I hooked up a jump box. It spun faster but, no start. Still a mystery.
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2024 will Crank, but just won't start! More later...
- Thread starter 700wolvy
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I have a jump/boost box in all my vehicles. When the Spyder would not start, I hooked up a jump box. It spun faster but, no start. Still a mystery.
Mikey
Well-known member
That's a great idea, but how's that going to fix this person's problem with a bike that will not start, but cranking just fine?
Well, I have started the Spyder regularly and let it run just to make sure it would start. Planned a 6 hour ride to the coast today for a long weekend. About every week, I would start the Spyder and let it run for 10-20 minutes. Started yesterday just fine. Kept it on trickle charger. All was well and I thought my issues were behind me. Well, went to start it and back it out to get all our headsets and phones connected and....no start. I blamed the battery so, got a DieHard battery. Still no start. Turns over fine. Performed the update that it said was available, no help. I am now charging the 'NEW' battery for one more shot. Did not use a screwdriver to tighten the battery connections. I used a ratchet. It will be going to the dealer whether it ever starts or not.
At the risk of adding yet another one to the many, MANY times that this has already been posted here by a fair few people who've probably forgotten more about batteries and electronics than I ever knew, buuut:
THESE BITS ^ are the ABSO-FREAKIN-LUTELY WORST THINGS YOU CAN DO TO YOUR VEHICLE &/or A BATTERY, short of dropping a large screwdriver across both terminals!!
Even if your charging system is in top spec, it takes AT LEAST 30 minutes of running just to replace the power drain you hit your battery with by starting it; so starting it and then only running it for 10-20 minutes, then compounding it by repeating that each week or so, means that you're just killing your battery (maybe not even slowly!!
) and leaving it on a trickle charger ALL the time doesn't help either; plus, since you've started the engine and introduced all sorts of acids, condensation, and contaminants into the oil/your engine, only then run it for short periods weekly only don't run it for long enough (preferably at road speed/under some varying load & cornering forces to get the oil everywhere it needs to go) you're not ever letting the OIL get hot enough to burn out all the condensation & those contaminants out again (even if your COOLANT might get up to temp!) so you're also slowly killing your engine/trans!! 
If you park your Spyder up (or any vehicle, really!) for any extended period, either disconnect the battery (maybe even remove it & put it away, somewhere warm & safe) or connect it up to a reasonable quality tender/maintainer, and then DON'T START YOUR ENGINE again until you can start it up and give it a good 30+ minutes ride/drive! Doing what you tell us you've been doing up there ^ is a sure-fire recipe for killing batteries & eventually, engines/trans too, even if you do use a trickle charger (but not a tender/maintainer, they are very different animals!) Leaving your battery on a trickle charger ALL the time without a regular maintenance cycle can boil the battery &/or hide a failing/dying battery, maybe even leaving you juuust enough of a float charge to get the engine running, which, because the engine will pretty much run off just the alternator output, it will then let you ride off, maybe until you are well away from home. If this is the case and you shut it down out there somewhere, that dead/dying battery can leave you stranded with little or no battery power! The initial start off the 'barely there' 12v float charge is possible cos you just unplugged the trickle charger, but if your battery has no real capacity left to back up that float charge and you ride off on the alternator output only, you're risking being left with a dead battery somewhere waaaay up the creek, without a paddle, and maybe also a loooong way from home &/or any help!! And, don't forget that ANY new battery NEEDS to be properly prepared and charged before installation (usually 8+ hours on a proper 'charger'!!) or at best, you'll shorten its potential life, and at worst, if the thing never got a real charge to start with, you might even kill that new battery by loading it up when it only had a very light 'proof of function' charge rather than a full on charge to capacity!!
So I'd guess that you created the initial 'no start' problem in the quote above for yourself, thru keeping it on a trickle charger and those 'start(ing) the Spyder and let it run for 10-20 minutes' every week episodes; and then unless you personally ensured that the 'new' battery had been properly prepared AND CHARGED before trying that, you just continued your 'lack of battery capacity' issues!
But YES, putting the 'new' battery on charge (a proper 'charger' tho, not just a trickle charger...
) for AT LEAST 8 HOURS is a good next step; which, with any luck, will see you back on the road. Only then, please do remember that you need to ride/drive at least 30+ minutes just to replace the battery capacity lost thru one start, let alone starting on charging it even just close to full charge; so DON'T start it if you're not going to ride it for at least 30+ minutes; remember that it also takes at least that long to even start to boil off all the condensation and contaminants gathered in your oil during its standing periods and that initial start; and if you're going to be riding again within a week or so, DON'T USE A TRICKLE CHARGER OR EVEN A TENDER all the time!! I have a 2025 F3-T and I had the Chinese battery replaced with a Yuasa before I took delivery. My 2021 went through two Chinese batteries in less that 2 years. Finally replaced it with a Yuasa. No problems after that.
So I'd guess that you created the initial 'no start' problem in the quote above for yourself, thru keeping it on a trickle charger and those 'start(ing) the Spyder and let it run for 10-20 minutes' every week episodes; and then unless you personally ensured that the 'new' battery had been properly prepared AND CHARGED before trying that, you just continued your 'lack of battery capacity' issues!
Sorry but, I think I have proven the no start issue has absolutely nothing to do with the battery. New battery was fully charged. And even if it wasn't, Spyder has started on a VERY less than fully charged battery. If any vehicle needs a fully charged battery in order to start, there is something very wrong. The only reason I changed the battery was because it was a cheap battery, not because it wouldn't provide enough power to turn over the engine. I have got cars, trucks, ATVs, tractors, and lawnmowers that sit for extended periods of time. I never have battery problems. My side by side can sit for 6 months between starts and no battery tender. The issue with the Spyder is not the battery.
I think it is fuel pump/wiring/connection related.
The very next morning, when it was a little chilly, started just fine. Drove it on the trailer and took to the dealer.
Also, everyone should check their chargers and make sure they stop charging when the battery is charged. Whether trickle or regular. Mine does.
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I don't think it was.
Me too if not under warranty and less than a year old. Whatever the issue, it is intermittent. I informed the dealer that it may be fuel pump related and to please check wiring associated with fuel pump. For one brief moment, I saw a message while scrolling through the display before performing the update. "Fuel pump shorted to ground". I should have taken a picture. After updates and reboots, message went away and still no start.
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