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2018 F3L stalling while driving - any ideas on why?

Hi, Bert Remington.

Specific answers:
1. Odo last reading estimated (bike in shop now): 14,600
2. Battery 2018: Powersports Lithium Ion MMG-6 – Quad terminals
3. No electrical mods. Floorboards, short reach handlebars / risers, bump skid, WOLO horn, Baker air wings, cat delete pipe, teardrop handlebar mirrors, OEM windshield extension. The horn was put on in 2021.

When riding in (typically) higher gears (like 4-5-6), rpms around 3600-4300, I first get the banner Transmission fault and know what to expect after that...better pull off the road safely before no speed at all. I don't put on the brakes as I need to roll the bike somewhere safe as I cannot shift manually or via brake, and have no power...machine will shake as it dies, and I am done. Display shows last gear bike was in prior to the stall, with the exclamation point!

To clear this, I simply act as if it never happened and turn the bike off, then restart the bike. Sometimes I had to do this more than once to clear the display, last time I did it 2X and bike started again. Because I was on a hill this last time, it also would not shift from neutral until it rolled to flat ground. I personally believe it to be a gear sensor or a bad module. All the codes thrown me in 2022 depicted a loss of communication between 3 modules among other codes.
 
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Preface: My bike is maintained on schedule, and dealer did my last oil change.

Stalled while riding...It happened again on 5/5/23 when I picked up my bike after having the sprocket replaced (recall). Had to pull off road then return to dealer with SAME PROBLEM that they allege they fixed prior. I personally believe I need a NEW module of some kind - TCM, VCM or HCM. THIS time, I refused to play with them - see if problem happens again - and told them they MUST contact BRP and use my BEST warranty (which they did not try to use prior). This is the 5th time I could have been killed riding this hunk of plastic...Because I no longer TRUST my bike, I cannot go on a trip, cannot ride for Road Warriors, cannot ride with my groups - cannot ride my bike without taking a chance on bike stalling, and my death on a busy highway after being rear ended at 65 mph. I turned Can AM into the NHTSB after the 1st 4 stalls....I guess I need to report them again.

IMHO your #-1 problem are / is the Tech who is trying to figure out HOW to fix your Spyder ( this is not uncommon for Spyder techs ) ..... try and find another Tech ..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
GWHIZZ -- I was kinda hoping maybe overheating due to low coolant but the ungraceful nature of your shutdown and the codes you described really point to a CANBUS problem. Since the left-hand switch module is a critical node I suggest you follow gkamer's path and look at these posts

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617908&viewfull=1#post1617908

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617866&viewfull=1#post1617866

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617863&viewfull=1#post1617863
 
GWHIZZ -- I was kinda hoping maybe overheating due to low coolant but the ungraceful nature of your shutdown and the codes you described really point to a CANBUS problem. Since the left-hand switch module is a critical node I suggest you follow gkamer's path and look at these posts

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617908&viewfull=1#post1617908

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617866&viewfull=1#post1617866

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617863&viewfull=1#post1617863

I say that the last tech did not know what really to do as it was a bad timeframe - when BRP was hacked and shutdown. They have opened a proper case with BRP this time and hopefully this will come up, as well as possible gear box sensor and any other issue. Thanks.
 
I just repaired a problem very similar. Turned out to be loose battery terminals.
Battery was new but bad out of the box.
 
GWHIZZ -- I was kinda hoping maybe overheating due to low coolant but the ungraceful nature of your shutdown and the codes you described really point to a CANBUS problem. Since the left-hand switch module is a critical node I suggest you follow gkamer's path and look at these posts

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617908&viewfull=1#post1617908

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617866&viewfull=1#post1617866

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ing-disaster&p=1617863&viewfull=1#post1617863

I am told - several times now, and by several dealers - that the TSB for this does not apply to my VIN. So far, BRP is wanting dealer to restore to factory settings, remove my chargers from battery tender and on handlebars (GPS), and replace my Lithium Ion battery with BRP Spyder battery. Since I have not personally changed any factory settings, no issues there. Perhaps the battery is contributing somehow to the intermittent problem as it is now 5 years old (but still tests ok on load). Let's see how this plays out. I just want it fixed right.
 
Well, after much research and calling BRP 3X, I do believe that the "lithium ion" battery may be somehow contributing to my stalling issues - not be the best kind of battery to put in a Spyder. I bought bike like this from pvt. owner and discovered this the first time I pulled the frunk bucket out of curiosity. I personally would have put in a better battery, like Yuasa, from the start. Anyways, wish me the best. I do believe putting in a new Yuasa will fix my ills.
 
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Well, after much research and calling BRP 3X, I do believe that the "lithium ion" battery may be somehow contributing to my stalling issues - not be the best kind of battery to put in a Spyder. I bought bike like this from pvt. owner and discovered this the first time I pulled the frunk bucket out of curiosity. I personally would have put in a better battery, like Yuasa, from the start. Anyways, wish me the best. I do believe putting in a new Yuasa will fix my ills.

Did the new battery fix it?
 
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