What did you do to your Spyder today?

Mikey said:

Got the battery at full charge and unplugged the tender for a bit, let it rest!!!

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I was hoping to avoid using the tender, by getting a ride at least every 10 days. But doesn't seem like that will be happening, so I will be plugging my toys in this morning.

Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench.

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Hopefully the remainder shouldn't be tight in the block. A sharp small chisel driven in lightly to act as a screwdriver I hope will work. First thing I did when I bought mine was change them out, not from fear of breaking them, which I never would have imagined happening, but rounding the hex out was my fear.

I always have my first oil change done by the dealership, in hopes that if it breaks, it will be on them. Then I hand them the replacement hex head bolts to be put in their place.

woppyvac said:

Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench.

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That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.

Dasmoetorhead said:

That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.

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One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.

woppyvac said:

Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench.

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OEM plugs are just fine. I am a Spyder tech and have literally done hundreds of oil changes. Using the correct tools and torque, they come right out, go right in, and don't leak. The one in your photo was significantly over torqued when installed. The same will happen with a hex head version, actually even easier to over torque as the engine side plug for the aftermarket is significantly weaker than the OEM plug. We will not install them.

Cobranut said:

One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.

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That's funny, because I've had one in my toolbox for years. Maybe I didn't think about it because I don't jack up or lift my F3S. No room to use the impact driver. I usually just use a small hammer and use the side of the hammer head to lightly tap the fastener.
I also feel the stock plugs were fine. I've never used a torque wrench on any oil drain plug. I've never over torqued one or stripped one out (mechanic by trade) for 40 years. I just get them snug, test run the engine, and see if its leaking. If it is, give it a little more torque.
Same on a plastic oil filter housing cap with an O-ring. I would never use a torque wrench on that. NEVER! Again, just bring it down slow and steady, until you feel it giving you feedback that's its tight. It's easier to apply a little more pressure than to strip it out or crack it. Torque values can change when you apply oil to the O-ring or threads, and your un-calibrated torque wrench may over-torque it. Just go slow and easy. No need to rush. It's not like you're changing oil in the middle of a Moto GP race.
After that, start, and check for function.

I don't torque them either and I don't use the solid metal sealing washer. I use the sandwich style fiber encased sealing washers. It is the same type of sandwich style washers used on almost all car drain plugs. They don't need to be real tight, and they will not leak if you just snug them up. I have never torqued the drain plugs on any motorcycle. Not the engine oil plugs nor the primary case plugs. Been using the fiber sandwich washers for a very long time. Amazon has them in all the metric sizes and they are very inexpensive. No need to reuse, just toss the old one and put a new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8NZTTM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1