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What did you do to your Spyder today?

Hopefully the remainder shouldn't be tight in the block. A sharp small chisel driven in lightly to act as a screwdriver I hope will work. First thing I did when I bought mine was change them out, not from fear of breaking them, which I never would have imagined happening, but rounding the hex out was my fear.
 
Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench. 😜

That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.
 
That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.
One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.
 
Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench. 😜

View attachment 253193 - View attachment 253194 - View attachment 253195
OEM plugs are just fine. I am a Spyder tech and have literally done hundreds of oil changes. Using the correct tools and torque, they come right out, go right in, and don't leak. The one in your photo was significantly over torqued when installed. The same will happen with a hex head version, actually even easier to over torque as the engine side plug for the aftermarket is significantly weaker than the OEM plug. We will not install them.

One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.
That's funny, because I've had one in my toolbox for years. Maybe I didn't think about it because I don't jack up or lift my F3S. No room to use the impact driver. I usually just use a small hammer and use the side of the hammer head to lightly tap the fastener.
I also feel the stock plugs were fine. I've never used a torque wrench on any oil drain plug. I've never over torqued one or stripped one out (mechanic by trade) for 40 years. I just get them snug, test run the engine, and see if its leaking. If it is, give it a little more torque.
Same on a plastic oil filter housing cap with an O-ring. I would never use a torque wrench on that. NEVER! Again, just bring it down slow and steady, until you feel it giving you feedback that's its tight. It's easier to apply a little more pressure than to strip it out or crack it. Torque values can change when you apply oil to the O-ring or threads, and your un-calibrated torque wrench may over-torque it. Just go slow and easy. No need to rush. It's not like you're changing oil in the middle of a Moto GP race.
After that, start, and check for function.
 
I don't torque them either and I don't use the solid metal sealing washer. I use the sandwich style fiber encased sealing washers. It is the same type of sandwich style washers used on almost all car drain plugs. They don't need to be real tight, and they will not leak if you just snug them up. I have never torqued the drain plugs on any motorcycle. Not the engine oil plugs nor the primary case plugs. Been using the fiber sandwich washers for a very long time. Amazon has them in all the metric sizes and they are very inexpensive. No need to reuse, just toss the old one and put a new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8NZTTM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
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I don't torque them either and I don't use the solid metal sealing washer. I use the sandwich style fiber encased sealing washers. It is the same type of sandwich style washers used on almost all car drain plugs. They don't need to be real tight, and they will not leak if you just snug them up. I have never torqued the drain plugs on any motorcycle. Not the engine oil plugs nor the primary case plugs. Been using the fiber sandwich washers for a very long time. Amazon has them in all the metric sizes and they are very inexpensive. No need to reuse, just toss the old one and put a new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8NZTTM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Those do work very well. I'll order some for the Spyder.
All my automobiles have Fumoto oil drain valves, so I never have to worry about leaks or pulling the threads in the pan.
The ones with nipples also make collecting the used oil in the 5 qt containers a clean and easy operation. No dirty drain pan to fool with.
 
Its Winter and here in Nor-Cal that means rain and fog, but for the past 2 weeks the wx has been misty in the morning, but dries up (dry roads anyway) in the afternoons making it possible for some riding. Unfortunately my entire family has colds. Bad ones. Not covid, but flu like. I was the last one to get this crud, and finally after 10 miserable days of coughing non stop I went to the ER. I've probably got at least a week of this garbage to go through.
In the mean time life goes on, if you can call it that without my daily fix of riding tbe Spyder. So there it sits cold iron in the garage . So no riding probably for at least a week more.
Life is short, so ride as much as possible.
 
Its Winter and here in Nor-Cal that means rain and fog, but for the past 2 weeks the wx has been misty in the morning, but dries up (dry roads anyway) in the afternoons making it possible for some riding. Unfortunately my entire family has colds. Bad ones. Not covid, but flu like. I was the last one to get this crud, and finally after 10 miserable days of coughing non stop I went to the ER. I've probably got at least a week of this garbage to go through.
In the mean time life goes on, if you can call it that without my daily fix of riding tbe Spyder. So there it sits cold iron in the garage . So no riding probably for at least a week more.
Life is short, so ride as much as possible.
Hope you recover soon brother!
 
Did the gauge conversion on Inlaws 2014 RT. As we started he said he did not want to loose the analog gauges. We put a nice large blue numbers volt meter on the right side and a dual USB-c outlet on the left side. When we were done his really like it!!!! I used Posi-Tap connectors to tap into the ground(black wire) and 12V(red wire) on bolt sides, not cutting the OEM wires.
 
I don't torque them either and I don't use the solid metal sealing washer. I use the sandwich style fiber encased sealing washers. It is the same type of sandwich style washers used on almost all car drain plugs. They don't need to be real tight, and they will not leak if you just snug them up. I have never torqued the drain plugs on any motorcycle. Not the engine oil plugs nor the primary case plugs. Been using the fiber sandwich washers for a very long time. Amazon has them in all the metric sizes and they are very inexpensive. No need to reuse, just toss the old one and put a new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8NZTTM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
What size is needed? I haven't done my first oil change yet.
 
Just what it says really... I see this question/topic on a couple other forums I visit, and it's always interesting to see what people post. So, what did you do to your Spyder today? Any model, heck let's include Ryker too...
I rode about 60 miles before the snow and ice arrives tomorrow
 
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