• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Apple CarPlay update - what is the secret to getting it working properly??

amkrat said:
I like what you have done. I have been curious about such a setup all along. I have a couple of questions. I understand from looking at the Amazon camera wiring description the red wire goes to the PK/BG-20 Can-Am connector and the black wire goes to the BK/BG-20 connector. From your description it looks like you also connected another (-) wire to it. Where did this wire come from? How did you identify the signal wire that connects to the BG/BK-20 connector. I'm guessing that there are several wires sheathed in the cable that is intended to run to the vehicle head unit. Finally, regarding the male end connector, are you saying that it has a removable plug and can then be used to connect to the female end if you have appropriate pins to insert? If that's the case and you have a line on how to obtain them please pass that info on.
Thanks. I'm anxious to try this setup myself.
Click to expand...
For my specific camera, the wires are shown in the picture below. In my previous post, I had connected the (4 - Camera Ground) and (2 - Power -) together. I found out in further testing today that I don't need to connect the (4 - Camera Ground) to anything. Testing with an Ohm meter, the (2 - Power -) and (4 - Camera Ground) are actually connected together, probably where the wires split after the camera. Depending on the camera, those 2 wires may need to be connected together.

I've added a jumper cable from the the original camera connector to run under the seat. I'm going to then run a cable from there to where I plan to mount the camera. Right now, that'll probably be under the rear cargo storage. That way, if I need to replace the camera, I don't have to disassemble anything.

IMG_6662.jpg
 
I’m picking my RT S2S up in the morning. They could not get Apple CarPlay to even show as greyed out on the screen. They will continue working with BRP tech support.
 
Oldandtired said:
The dealership service manager said BRP tech is suspecting problem may be the internal gps antenna.
Click to expand...
What internal GPS antenna?

With Apple Carplay, the iPhone is the GPS device. The Spyder's display just shows what the iPhone tells it too.
 
My backup camera project is done!!! And it works great.
My cost for the whole project was $19.99
I already had the tools and a few of the items I used.

5set 1-1703494-1/1488991-5 Car Reversing Radar Eye Plug DJ7032YA-1.2-11/21 Female and Male Waterproof Connector Inserts - $10.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CL6GSZ78?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Car Rear View Camera Backup Reverse Camera HD 170° Wide Angle 12 LED Night Vision, for RV Trucks Trailer SUV - $9.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B95J5JC5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I decided to run an extension cable from the original camera connector to under the seat. This way I shouldn't need to disassemble the side of the Spyder if I need to make adjustments. Then another extension with a power and RCA end to under the rear cargo storage.
I then connected those to the camera ends. The camera is attached to under the rear cargo storage with Gorilla tape. I think that will hold it, but will report back if not.
With his setup, I should be able to replace the camera pretty easily if needed.
The downside to this camera is it also has backup lines, but for the cost, I can live with it.
In the picture, the Red Line is 10 inches from the back of the Spyder.

IMG_6671.jpg - IMG_6668.jpg - IMG_6663.jpg
 
I have a 2024 F3T and find that with a bit of tweaking the ACP works very well.

Make sure your software is up to date.

2024 large F3T.jpg
 
racoon said:
What internal GPS antenna?

With Apple Carplay, the iPhone is the GPS device. The Spyder's display just shows what the iPhone tells it too.
Click to expand...
Turns out that they didn’t even talk to BRP. They did try a different Apple cable. I’m going to take it to a different Virginia dealer.
 
Darth 'Nid said:
I've had nothing but problems with my ACP since purchasing my 24 S2S last March. I'm attaching my latest (of many) emails to BRP. Maybe someone has had better luck and knows the secrets of getting it to work properly. Yes I've tried every way possible to hook up my iphone.
Click to expand...

Darth, the problem you are having sounds exactly like what Shawn Smoak discovered while working on a customers bike that was having problems with Apple CarPlay. He found that if you have VPN (Virtual Private Network) enabled it messes up the connection between the bike and the phone. When he disabled VPN and restarted the phone and the bike Apple CarPlay connected without a problem. This near the end of Vlog-3456 at 23:50 in. I hope this helps you.
 
It seems that every time I go for a ride, I spend at least 5 minutes trying to get ACP to work. On tonights ride, the music stopped, ACP was still showing as active but unresponsive. This also prevented me from using the radio. I'm using the Cardo Edge communication system with an iPhone 16 Pro Max. If anyone is using the Cardo system with success, please let me know.
 
herring said:
It seems that every time I go for a ride, I spend at least 5 minutes trying to get ACP to work. On tonights ride, the music stopped, ACP was still showing as active but unresponsive. This also prevented me from using the radio. I'm using the Cardo Edge communication system with an iPhone 16 Pro Max. If anyone is using the Cardo system with success, please let me know.
Click to expand...
I wish I had the answer also. I have the same setup. Cardo Packtalk Edge and iPhone 16 Pro Max. I did upgrade to the latest software for the Spyder and it seems to help some. At least in the few times I've tested since the upgrade, ACP will start consistently. Again, I've only tried it a couple of time since the upgrade. However, I'm still having issues as you do... my music will stop. I start it, either via the iPhone or the Spyder controls... and it stops again. I've wonder is anyone is getting ACP to work reliably? I also sent an email to Can Am, but no response yet.
 
For me, things seem worse since I updated the dash in April after it was out of winter storage. I now get these Bluetooth errors; sometimes it works, sometimes not; stop for coffee, and then it works… or not; freeze the map… can’t select anything; it’s all over the maps… ridiculous! And yes, I do have the latest 4.01 or what ever it is…

Good thing I invested in a Garmin XT2 GPS because I use it quite a bit… Hopefully (probably not) they will fix it for good one of these days…
 
zippy27 said:
I wish I had the answer also. I have the same setup. Cardo Packtalk Edge and iPhone 16 Pro Max. I did upgrade to the latest software for the Spyder and it seems to help some. At least in the few times I've tested since the upgrade, ACP will start consistently. Again, I've only tried it a couple of time since the upgrade. However, I'm still having issues as you do... my music will stop. I start it, either via the iPhone or the Spyder controls... and it stops again. I've wonder is anyone is getting ACP to work reliably? I also sent an email to Can Am, but no response yet.
Click to expand...
I have been reviewing the setup of the Cardo Edge and the Spyder. This video may help.


I've been following the correct pairing but still have issues. I'm trying different cables to see if the results will improve.
 
I wish I could help with the music issue, but I don't use the Spyder's radio or listen to music from my iPhone while riding.
I'm still at the stage of trying not to get run over by all of the idiots in Tennessee who drive large pickup trucks.

As for the Apple CarPlay navigation, it still continues to work since the 4.1 update to my Spyder, although I haven't been out for a ride for a couple of days...

:::checking weather.com:::

Looks like a warm sunny day tomorrow, Saturday, followed by rain and thunderstorms until Wednesday.
I guess I'm going riding tomorrow. 🦝
 
racoon said:
I wish I could help with the music issue, but I don't use the Spyder's radio or listen to music from my iPhone while riding.
I'm still at the stage of trying not to get run over by all of the idiots in Tennessee who drive large pickup trucks.

As for the Apple CarPlay navigation, it still continues to work since the 4.1 update to my Spyder, although I haven't been out for a ride for a couple of days...

:::checking weather.com:::

Looks like a warm sunny day tomorrow, Saturday, followed by rain and thunderstorms until Wednesday.
I guess I'm going riding tomorrow. 🦝
Click to expand...
Enjoy your ride!
 
herring said:
It seems that every time I go for a ride, I spend at least 5 minutes trying to get ACP to work. On tonights ride, the music stopped, ACP was still showing as active but unresponsive. This also prevented me from using the radio. I'm using the Cardo Edge communication system with an iPhone 16 Pro Max. If anyone is using the Cardo system with success, please let me know.
Click to expand...
I'm using the Cardo Spirit HD (Duo pack) not the Edge, so I don't know if what I have to say applies to you. I was having similar problems, and I went to Cardo Support for help. Their response was quick and very helpful. After some back and forth e-mails, it was suggested that I delete all my bluetooth connections and do a factory reset of the units. After the reset, I re-paired the two headsets together. Cardo Support said that the initial bluetooth pairings with the Can-Am needed to be done in a specific order; rider headset first (I used the GPS connection), then the iPhone, finally the passenger headset (I used the phone connection option). I followed their instructions, and everything has been working like it is supposed to since. The connection is reasonably fast and strong with no disconnect issues like before. Apple CarPlay becomes active; I can enjoy music through both headsets; and Google Maps keeps up with my movement. Intercom with my passenger/wife works just fine while ACP is active as well. Time will tell if what I did is the magic cure that I have been looking for (at least for Cardo users). I hope so.
 
Having spent over nearly three weeks on my Spyder (Alaska trip), I am so frustrated with ACP and so very glad I have an old Garmin Zumo 396 as a back up for routing (though it wasn't flawless either). While I will be trying a factory reset of my Sena SRL-Mesh, I don't think that is the problem. I think it is in the Spyder software (I'm on the current version). Most of the time, it will connect and start. My usual problem is when it goes for about 30 seconds (just enough to pull out onto the road) and then freezes. Sometimes I had just a blank screen on the right side. Sometimes it would reset itself while I was riding and suddenly start working. Sometimes it would work flawlessly for hours. I love it when it works. Glad I got a '24 so that it is available. Sure will be glad if they ever get the bugs all worked out.
 
Has anyone used Apple Car Play & inRoute navigation? My 2024 RT has ACP (all updates) and my iPhone has inRoute installed. InRoute is transferred from my iPhone to the screen with ACP. Route started, but no sound! Music and phone work with sound, inRoute nav instruction has no sound? Can someone help?
 
PDXRTL said:
Having spent over nearly three weeks on my Spyder (Alaska trip), I am so frustrated with ACP and so very glad I have an old Garmin Zumo 396 as a back up for routing (though it wasn't flawless either). While I will be trying a factory reset of my Sena SRL-Mesh, I don't think that is the problem. I think it is in the Spyder software (I'm on the current version). Most of the time, it will connect and start. My usual problem is when it goes for about 30 seconds (just enough to pull out onto the road) and then freezes. Sometimes I had just a blank screen on the right side. Sometimes it would reset itself while I was riding and suddenly start working. Sometimes it would work flawlessly for hours. I love it when it works. Glad I got a '24 so that it is available. Sure will be glad if they ever get the bugs all worked out.
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem with Android Auto in my car. You have to give the phone enough time to build the route. I found that with Android Auto, if I did not do that, then the screen would freeze up. Sometimes after a few feet, and sometimes after a mile or more. When I let the phone build the route before I started moving, it worked fine.
 
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