2014 RTS Rear Wheel removal Questions

[cognaccruiser]

I have viewed Lamont's video for RS wheel removal and have searched for and found a number of threads but still have some questions.
For the RTS the removal of the Air Level Sensor Lever is required in addition. Does anyone have a picture of said lever? I would just like to know what it is that I'm looking for first. Maybe it is self evident once I lift the Spyder up but would like a better idea if possible.

Secondly, should the parking brake be disengaged at some point?

I saw some reference to removing clips from the caliper bolts when removing the brake caliper. Will this be obvious when removing the caliper?

The cotter pin on the 36mm nut will probably need to be replaced. Is there a specific size of cotter pin to use? Does anyone re-use the original cotter pin?

in Lamont's video he had to replace the O-ring on the hub assembly. Is this common or just a mistake in how it was removed. Is there a size that I need to know?

Does the axel need to be lubed before re-inserting? I saw something about coating it with anti-seize. Is that necessary?

Maybe I'm over thinking this but would like to be completely prepared. This is all in regard to replacing the rear tire which I want to do before spring and getting the Spyder back on the road before heading to Spyderfest. The trip we have planned will probably put on a good 5-6,000 miles.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gary

 

[bill51]

opcorn: that would help me to. I need to do the same thing to.

 

[Highwayman2013]

1 The leveling arm is a plastic rod that bolts to the left (sitting on bike) side of the swingarm with (I think) a 10mm bolt.
2 Yes release the park brake
3 The bolts on the caliper will NOT come out with the clips on, take them off first.
4 Yes the cotter pin should be replaced, just match it up with one like in an assortment you can get at a parts store. It's there to keep the axle nut from falling off but with the axle tight it is a good distance from the nut.
5 I did not have to replace mine it looked fine.
6 I rubbed a light coat of grease on mine. It is just to keep it from getting stuck.
I hope this helps.

 

[finless]

Also I might add after reading a bit myself. If you remove the caliper WATCH WHERE THE WASHERS BEHIND THE CALIPER come from. Some Spyders seem to have an alignment washer behind the caliper and they fall out. As of yet everyone that has done this did not see what bolt they came from. Try to pay attention to that.

Bob

 

[bluestratos]

All good advice, the wheel removal is not difficult just follow the suggesions. The shim for the caliper looks like a washer and it fits between the caliper and the mount on the bike. Only one bolt has the washer so loosen the inner bolt (nearest the front of bike) then remove the other bolt and watch for the washer to fall out. If not watch the front bolt as you remove it. Not all bikes have the washers and they can be on either bolt. Mine is on the rear bolt. This shim is not shown in the manual, BRPs little joke I guess.

My axle bolt always has mild corrossion on it. I clean it off agains my wire wheel then apply a bit of grease to protect the axle. Lining up the axil on the way back in is not difficult but it can be frustrating for one person. I can start the bolt then swing my head to the other side to see how to align to the hole and it goes pretty easy then.

Good luck,

 

[bill51]

hey thank everyone I will give it a try not a good mechanic. Bob got the same tire you got . hope I don"t mist it up. thanks again :bowdown:

 

[cognaccruiser]

Thank you Highwayman2013, finless (Bob) and bluestratos. That is great info and very helpful. Your quick responses are appreciated.

Just to clarify, the Air Level Sensor Lever appears to be a thin rod of about 1/4 inch in diameter and about 3 1/2 inches long and runs vertically from the swing arm although I didn't think it was plastic if I'm looking at the right part. I checked and it is a 10 mm nut and bolt that connects it. Is that correct?

Thanks again and if there are any other pearls of wisdom, please pass them on.

Gary

 

[Roadster Renovations]

One thing that (I think) was not mentioned was letting the air out of the air ride before you start. That way you don't damage the airbag dropping the swingarm down to remove the wheel. The bladder can be bled from under the seat. At least that was what I did with mine. Also, make sure you support the caliper with a hanger to relieve stress on it. Also, when removing the caliper bolts, watch for a washer (some have them so don't) and note the location for re-assembly. Many of us use a cricket to set the belt tension.
While you have the wheel off, check both belt sprockets for small rocks wedged in the valleys of the teeth.

 

[Highwayman2013]

One thing that (I think) was not mentioned was letting the air out of the air ride before you start. That way you don't damage the airbag dropping the swingarm down to remove the wheel. The bladder can be bled from under the seat. At least that was what I did with mine. Also, make sure you support the caliper with a hanger to relieve stress on it. Also, when removing the caliper bolts, watch for a washer (some have them so don't) and note the location for re-assembly. Many of us use a cricket to set the belt tension.
While you have the wheel off, check both belt sprockets for small rocks wedged in the valleys of the teeth.

Good one, I forgot about the air bag.:bowdown:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Another suggestion. Loosen the belt tension adjusting bolts an exact number of turns, like maybe 8, and both exactly the same. Make a note of the number and be sure to keep the bolts from turning in the adjusting blocks after they are loose. Tighten them back the same number of turns and your belt tension should the same as before taking the wheel off and the belt should track the same. Otherwise you'll find yourself going through the entire belt adjustment procedure. Loosening the adjusting blocks makes it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the axle [not axel! ].

 

[bill51]

ok got it doc thanks

 

[billybovine]

Do you need an o-ring?

You won't know if you need any parts until it is taken apart. I have a full set of bearings and seals just in case. My preferred Spyder dealer is 1 hr 15 min away so I choose to spend the money and have the parts on hand.

The parts list for a 2014 RT is

15 293200094 Seal. Model-RT STD $8.99 CAD 2 required
16 293300124 O-Ring $4.99 CAD
18 293350067 Ball Bearing $9.99 CAD 2 required
19 293350065 Double Row Bearing. Model-RT STD $26.99 CAD

Note the prices are Canadian and the US prices will be lower.

 

[finless]

You won't know if you need any parts until it is taken apart. I have a full set of bearings and seals just in case. My preferred Spyder dealer is 1 hr 15 min away so I choose to spend the money and have the parts on hand.

The parts list for a 2014 RT is

15 293200094 Seal. Model-RT STD $8.99 CAD 2 required
16 293300124 O-Ring $4.99 CAD
18 293350067 Ball Bearing $9.99 CAD 2 required
19 293350065 Double Row Bearing. Model-RT STD $26.99 CAD

Note the prices are Canadian and the US prices will be lower.

Just checked my service manual and same part numbers for my 2011 RTS.

Since I will be doing this very soon, I better order these parts. Thanks Billy!

Bob

 

[finless]

Yikes, looks like I will also need that special tool 529036113 to take the bearing nut off. Cheapest I found that was $57. OUCH!

Billy, do you have that tool?

Also the blind puller. I don't need that entire set BRP shows (529036117) anyone know of a simple substitute for that puller maybe from Harbor Freight?

Bob

 

[cognaccruiser]

Thanks again everyone for the replies.

Still trying to verify if the sensor level arm is the small metal rod that is about 3 1/2 inches long and about 1/4 inch in diameter and attaches to the swing arm in a vertical position. I've also heard it referred to as the dog bone.

As mine is a 2014 RTS with the switch to control suspension, is it really necessary to let air out with the Schrader valve? Or if I just lower the suspension to its lowest setting per the instructions, will this be sufficient. The manual seems to suggest this.

Thanks,

Gary

 

[billybovine]

Yikes, looks like I will also need that special tool 529036113 to take the bearing nut off. Cheapest I found that was $57. OUCH!

Billy, do you have that tool?

Also the blind puller. I don't need that entire set BRP shows (529036117) anyone know of a simple substitute for that puller maybe from Harbor Freight?

Bob

I have done 2 tire changes since assembling the parts. Once on my 09 and once on my 2013 ST. Parts are the same for both. Only used the O-ring on the 09. So I have not needed to change the bearings so far.

If I need to change the bearings in the future I have 2 motorcycle/small engine shops less than 5 minutes from my house, that will service almost anything that comes in the door. Very likely one or both have an arbour press with a big enough throat and if not a blind bearing puller. If all that fails I can find a piece of pipe the right size and I have a hammer.

As for the special tool. I recall that some have made one from an old socket. Also some have said that bicycle shops have that tool and I think someone posted in an old thread where to get a cheap one. A friend of mine has a welding fabrication shop. It should be easy enough to make a tool. I am thinking a piece of flat bar welded to a 2 foot piece of square tube.

 

[finless]

Yes investigation of old threads is people used a piece of metal bar stock and a crescent wrench. That bearing nut is only torqued to 15 ft lbs. so seems easy enough to fabricate something. I am not going to spend 57 bucks on a tool I maybe use once or twice.

We should organize a BRP tool loan program though

The real question is should I replace the bearings at 14K even if they feel OK?
Seems some do for the heck of it. Cheap enough parts ($67 total from cheap cycle parts).

cognaccruiser, Here is a picture of the arm you want to remove the bolt from.

Bob

 

[finless]

So this tool from Harbor Freight looks like it will work for pulling the bearings.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

Jaw size is 3/4" to 1 1/2".

What is the ID of the bearings? Not smaller than 3/4" I hope?

Bob

 

[Roadster Renovations]

So this tool from Harbor Freight looks like it will work for pulling the bearings.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

Jaw size is 3/4" to 1 1/2".

What is the ID of the bearings? Not smaller than 3/4" I hope?

Bob

Not to be a Debbie downer, but I destroyed that HF tool on pulling a pilot bushing doing a clutch. Tool was pretty brittle and broke easily. Hope you have better luck with it.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks again everyone for the replies.

Still trying to verify if the sensor level arm is the small metal rod that is about 3 1/2 inches long and about 1/4 inch in diameter and attaches to the swing arm in a vertical position. I've also heard it referred to as the dog bone.

Go to http://parts.spyder.brp.com, click on 2014, then Spyder, then RTS, then 08-Suspension rear and look at part #101 near the bottom of the diagram. Is that what you are looking at? It probably is. On the parts list it's identified as "Tie Rod" but it connects to the Position Sensor. BRP is notorious for their inconsistency in nomenclature between parts manual and service manual. Even year to year they are not consistent. Their designers, draftsmen, and manual writers all need some serious training in nomenclature use. The 2013 service manual refers to it as the 'link rod.'