• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

2014 RTS Rear Wheel removal Questions

Another suggestion. Loosen the belt tension adjusting bolts an exact number of turns, like maybe 8, and both exactly the same. Make a note of the number and be sure to keep the bolts from turning in the adjusting blocks after they are loose. Tighten them back the same number of turns and your belt tension should the same as before taking the wheel off and the belt should track the same. Otherwise you'll find yourself going through the entire belt adjustment procedure. Loosening the adjusting blocks makes it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the axle [not axel! :)].
If you take out the bottom shock bolt and let the swing arm drop down the belt should go off and on and the axle in and out without turning the adjusters.
 
If you take out the bottom shock bolt and let the swing arm drop down the belt should go off and on and the axle in and out without turning the adjusters.
Maybe it "should" but I sure couldn't get the axle back in without doing that when I changed my rear tire! :banghead: I had the bike raised up high enough the tire was off the floor with the shock bolt out.
 
when jacking up the first time, jack until the rear tire is just clearing the floor, place your jack towards the rear so the front wheels stay on the floor. then remove the caliper and axel then as you jack up alittel more the wheel will drop and the belt will loosen. remove it from the pulley, jack some more the wheel will stay on the floor the bike will go up, jack till you can roll the wheel out, there are three bearings in the rear wheel they are not much money and your dealer may replace them for you, if they are bad and under warrantee. otherwise all that posted before me had great advice, good luck
 
2012 rt limited tire removal info

Don't go to the trouble of taking loose the shock. I use a jack I got from Amazon it will actually lift the whole spyder. Bleed air bag , disconnect air sensor linkage located by belt 10 mm bolt and nut. Release parking brake the roll brake assembly foreward to remove cable. Note you can do this if a brake fails to release just saying.remove 2 bolts holding caliper assembly slide free mine had no spacers. Loosen main wheel bolt and nut after removing carter pin. I moved the wheel adjustments 8 turns each to give wheel slack to get belt off. Once belt is removed pull main wheel bolt out , then roll out wheel Assyrian.
the pully side is held on wheel assy by rubber bushings in wheel just tap with hand and remove, they can only go back in one way,mor take a picture. This exposes the nut side of the inner spacer assy as I call it, the thing the brake disk is mounted to remove the bolts, might need a tap as it slides on but gunk builds up. Once clear remove the bolts holding the spacer , inspect the bearings . Do not forget to put the tube assembly back in as it gives the assy strength. Got my tire from discount tire, it codes out to a 1994, Mitsubishi eclipse base model as they would not seek it to me for the spyder on check out. I got my kumo delivered for $ 81 total. Check your rear pad while you have them off. It's not to hard once you read this happy tire removal. Enjoy Huck
 
Sensor Position Switch

Be sure and take the bolt out of the position sensor switch arm before you remove the bottom shock bolt. The bracket holding the sensor switch and arm is light weight stuff and will bend and throw the sensor off. By the way if you disconnect the electrical connection from the position sensor you may have to have it reset by a dealer with the computer.

I watched the video but didn't know about the sensor arm until it was too late. Then trying to get the bracket back in the correct spot I broke the metal arm off the sensor switch and had to spot weld it back on. Then found I had to take it to dealer to get it calibrated. Live and learn but learning can hurt.
 
check out this video on removing rear wheel & changing wheel bearings.
canam spyder wheel bearings replacement- youtube by Adrian Iredale.
He made a tool for the nut.
 
rear rim

Thank you guys for all your great suggestions and comments on this thread. I plan to remove my rear rim to have it chromed and i was puzzled a little about doing it. I kind of have an idea now..:popcorn:
 
I realize this is an old thread but as I am going to pull my rear wheel for the first time for a new tire before a long trip I thought I would read thru every one I could find. Some of you were looking a a puller from HF but I think a better one would be this number.Item #95987. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=blind+bearing+puller
I have one of these and have used it several times and it works really well.

I have a 2012 RTS L. I see it mentioned to disconnect the parking brake but no mention of how to do this. Any suggestions?
 
If you have a shim on one of the caliper bolts put it back together with it in place, spin the wheel, take the washer out and see how the wheel turns without it. You may need the washer, I did not need mine, it spun more freely without it.
 
I have a 2012 RTS L. I see it mentioned to disconnect the parking brake but no mention of how to do this. Any suggestions?

I did not have to disconnect the parking brake on my 2011 RTS. You do on the manual parking brake setup of the RS.

See my video for rear wheel removal:


Bob
 
Bob thank you for your reply and the link to your video. I had watched it before but a refresher is always good. BTW I can't believe you did this in bare feet or flip flops. What a man.;)
 
If your loosening the adjusters a set amount of turns to give the belt slack to take off- ALSO measure the distance from axle to end cap on each side and write it down and it should be the same exact measurement when the adjusters are re-tightened!:yikes:
 
2014RTS rear wheel removal

I have read all above as I need a new tyre aswell
My bike is an RT Standard, no electric adjustable suspension, will mine still have the "TIE ROD"? and do I still need to let all the air out of the suspension.

I intend to use a TOYO Proxis T1R It's about all I can find here in France with a similar tread pattern to a Kenda, has anyone used one of these?

Thanks in advance and thanks for all above, been very useful
 
Belt

YOu do not meet to reLease the belt adjustment

Reamouve the shocks and lift the bike , the belt will be loose






Another suggestion. Loosen the belt tension adjusting bolts an exact number of turns, like maybe 8, and both exactly the same. Make a note of the number and be sure to keep the bolts from turning in the adjusting blocks after they are loose. Tighten them back the same number of turns and your belt tension should the same as before taking the wheel off and the belt should track the same. Otherwise you'll find yourself going through the entire belt adjustment procedure. Loosening the adjusting blocks makes it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the axle [not axel! :)].
 
Belt adjusters

When taking rear wheel off do not touch belt adjusters. When you jack up the bike the swing arm will drop down some. when tire just clears ground roll the tire back wards and walk belt off. When finish with tire walk belt back on. This saves a lot of trouble and belt should track right. I have done this on about 8 tires from 2008RS to my 2014RT worked perfect ever time.
 
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