Installed HID lights and spyder went CRAZY!!!

[ARCTIC]

I bought the HID lighting kit from Xenon Depot. Spent an insane amount of time getting the spyder tore down and carefully routing wires and securing all wires from harms way. Tested the lights and they fire up with the trigger switch on the right handlebar PERFECT... Tried starting the spyder and it fires for 5 seconds then kills the motor and the display says " VSS fault" and "check DPS". I cannot get the spyder to run with the headlights connected. If I pull the fuse it will start and most times have a very high idle and other times run just fine. :dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: If it pull the fuse for the headlights and start it and then push the fuse in while it's running.... sometimes it revs the engine up and won't idle back down and other times it kills the engine instantly. Anybody got any ideas???? Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe my HID venture :banghead:

 

[r1100rider]

I bought the HID lighting kit from Xenon Depot. Spent an insane amount of time getting the spyder tore down and carefully routing wires and securing all wires from harms way. Tested the lights and they fire up with the trigger switch on the right handlebar PERFECT... Tried starting the spyder and it fires for 5 seconds then kills the motor and the display says " VSS fault" and "check DPS". I cannot get the spyder to run with the headlights connected. If I pull the fuse it will start and most times have a very high idle and other times run just fine. :dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: If it pull the fuse for the headlights and start it and then push the fuse in while it's running.... sometimes it revs the engine up and won't idle back down and other times it kills the engine instantly. Anybody got any ideas???? Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe my HID venture :banghead:

Mine did the exact same thing I've got one working fine still fighting the other one shielding with foil helps and reversing the feed wires seems to make a differance also I found my battery connection caused more sensitivity some have give up on these kits xenon dept won't return my call and act like they have no idea this ever happens like I said mine did the exact thing you described I still can't figure out how it makes it run fast with throttle cable and throttle by wire

 

[Littlebadwolf]

My GS did the same thing with the Xenon HID....Once installed it rev'd up to around 5-6k in neutral and I have to hit the kill switch...Then it wouldn't start ...just crank...kept trying for another 5 minutes and it'd do the same...Come to find out it was placement of the ballasts too close to the electrical circuitry...Moved the ballasts to another location and it was fine.

 

[DrewNJ]

Mine would not allow the Spyder to start on the first try. It would always start-stall. Hit the button again and it would start. Appeared to be due to the load to first fire the ballasts.
To fix I was told I would need to spend more money for different ballasts that draw less power at startup......would have been nice to know BEFORE I ordered what I had and had everything installed. I pulled it all out and went back to the stock lights. I want to ride, not have the machine pulled apart in the garage.
My kid installed the kit i pulled from the spyder in his VW and said they work great....haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ARCTIC]

My GS did the same thing with the Xenon HID....Once installed it rev'd up to around 5-6k in neutral and I have to hit the kill switch...Then it wouldn't start ...just crank...kept trying for another 5 minutes and it'd do the same...Come to find out it was placement of the ballasts too close to the electrical circuitry...Moved the ballasts to another location and it was fine.

Curious where you moved them to? I can't get mine any further away without extending the wires.

Mine would not allow the Spyder to start on the first try. It would always start-stall. Hit the button again and it would start. Appeared to be due to the load to first fire the ballasts.
To fix I was told I would need to spend more money for different ballasts that draw less power at startup......would have been nice to know BEFORE I ordered what I had and had everything installed. I pulled it all out and went back to the stock lights. I want to ride, not have the machine pulled apart in the garage.
My kid installed the kit i pulled from the spyder in his VW and said they work great....haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless something obvious comes up as a reliable solution I'm likely pulling mine too. This project has been a long drawn out waste of time. Maybe my atv has the same headlight.

 

[dave01]

Make sure your ballasts are mounted to plastic and not touching metal. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and if you have fog lights, they are turned off when you start the spyder. I had them on mt Phantom and the rt. It takes moving the ballasts around a little, but they will work.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ARCTIC]

Make sure your ballasts are mounted to plastic and not touching metal. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and if you have fog lights, they are turned off when you start the spyder. I had them on mt Phantom and the rt. It takes moving the ballasts around a little, but they will work.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

After the initial starting issue, I went straight for the battery charger and let it charge for a hour and it had no effect on the issue. Also tried starting it with the charger on it. Same thing. Tried running a ground wire to different areas.... Same thing. Grounded the cases of the ballasts... Same thing. Took the ballasts off of the metal frame... Same thing.:banghead:

 

[dave01]

After the initial starting issue, I went straight for the battery charger and let it charge for a hour and it had no effect on the issue. Also tried starting it with the charger on it. Same thing. Tried running a ground wire to different areas.... Same thing. Grounded the cases of the ballasts... Same thing. Took the ballasts off of the metal frame... Same thing.:banghead:

Try one ballast at a time, with them sitting next to the Spyder, like on a bucket or something. You may have a bad ballast that is shorting out. Been there too.

 

[ARCTIC]

Try one ballast at a time, with them sitting next to the Spyder, like on a bucket or something. You may have a bad ballast that is shorting out. Been there too.

We are on the SAME page here. I disconnected the ground from both boxes because I had the positives soldered together. I could get it to start sometimes with one headlight and never with the other. Thought I had it all figured out and retested my theory and then it wouldn't start with either of them again:banghead:

At the time, both ballast were not mounted to the spyder and hanging off the side from the wires

 

[r1100rider]

We are on the SAME page here. I disconnected the ground from both boxes because I had the positives soldered together. I could get it to start sometimes with one headlight and never with the other. Thought I had it all figured out and retested my theory and then it wouldn't start with either of them again:banghead:

At the time, both ballast were not mounted to the spyder and hanging off the side from the wires

Try reversing the feed wires from the stock lites that fire the system also if the battery is at all questionable it will do this like I said before foil wrapping for shielding also helped

 

[wyliec]

You don't have the ballasts touching each other, do you? It's also a good idea to have as much separation as possible. However, your problem is a lot more complicated than what I had with my aftermarket hid's.

 

[DrewNJ]

Just FYI-
If you get tired of messing with it and go back to the stock lights but are worried about the holes you had to cut in the spyder rubber caps, I found these to work really good at blocking off the holes you cut in the rubber caps. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=81174&eq=&Tp= Also Available at any boat or trailer shop.
You do have to make the hole a bit bigger but they fit real nice....:doorag:
Good Luck!

 

[ARCTIC]

Try reversing the feed wires from the stock lites that fire the system also if the battery is at all questiI nable it will do this like I said before foil wrapping for shielding also helped

I will try this. I was going to hook up jumper cables from my truck to the spyder to eliminate all questions about the battery. I honestly think my battery charger experiment probably crossed it off the list but I will completely rule it out with jumper cables. I'm a little surprised you can switch that wire around on the headlights. In the instructions it says something about a relay exploding if the polarity isn't correct on something but I don't have the instructions in front of me now to better explain

 

[ARCTIC]

You don't have the ballasts touching each other, do you? It's also a good idea to have as much separation as possible. However, your problem is a lot more complicated than what I had with my aftermarket hid's.

They are not touching each other but are mounted very close back to back with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum in between along with the 3m sticky pads that they supply.

Just FYI-
If you get tired of messing with it and go back to the stock lights but are worried about the holes you had to cut in the spyder rubber caps, I found these to work really good at blocking off the holes you cut in the rubber caps. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=81174&eq=&Tp= Also Available at any boat or trailer shop.
You do have to make the hole a bit bigger but they fit real nice....:doorag:
Good Luck!

Thanks:thumbup: I have some of those on the shelf. I was just going too glue a piece of tire inner tube over the hole

 

[NancysToy]

They are not touching each other but are mounted very close back to back with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum in between along with the 3m sticky pads that they supply.

Thanks:thumbup: I have some of those on the shelf. I was just going too glue a piece of tire inner tube over the hole

Not a good idea! The magnetic interference from the ballasts is multiplied with that kind of setup, greatly increasing the size and strength of the magnetic and electrical field, making it far more likely to cause interference with the cluster of ECM. You also have to be careful of grounds. A grounded ballast, or one grounded in teh wrong place, can cause a lots of interference. The CANbus doesn't like electrical interference, and the computers don't like magnetic or EF inteference.

 

[Machinegunner]

My wife's bike gave us fits when we tried to start it. The high voltage spike after the motor starts and the lights fire up seemed to kill the ignition. I installed a direct FUSED line from the battery to a relay triggered by a wire that gets hot when the ignition switch is turned on. This way when the ignition is turned on the lights light so the electric surge is over when the bike starts. We have had NO problems since. The relay trigger takes very low current so can be hooked to any switched accessory wire in the fuse box. The direct feed wire from the battery eliminates all current draw through the Nanny. Also the lights stay on for twenty seconds after the key is turned off, until the time delay shuts off. If interested, PM and I can explain it better.

 

[Chupaca]

Wow..!!

is it really worth it..?? I would worry constantly that something might move and my spyder will do a back roll and curl up it's legs...:roflblack:

 

[ARCTIC]

My wife's bike gave us fits when we tried to start it. The high voltage spike after the motor starts and the lights fire up seemed to kill the ignition. I installed a direct FUSED line from the battery to a relay triggered by a wire that gets hot when the ignition switch is turned on. This way when the ignition is turned on the lights light so the electric surge is over when the bike starts. We have had NO problems since. The relay trigger takes very low current so can be hooked to any switched accessory wire in the fuse box. The direct feed wire from the battery eliminates all current draw through the Nanny. Also the lights stay on for twenty seconds after the key is turned off, until the time delay shuts off. If interested, PM and I can explain it better.

I understand what you're saying and it is good solid logic but my spyder runs weird even when the fuse is pulled on the hot lead wire:dontknow:

is it really worth it..?? I would worry constantly that something might move and my spyder will do a back roll and curl up it's legs...:roflblack:

NOPE!!!! Not worth it. I'm buying PIAA extreme white halogen bulbs and putting them in there. I'll take a picture of the HID lights and then after I put the extreme bulbs in and compare the two.

 

[Bob Denman]

You couldn't find a decent way to move the ballasts farther apart and shield them a bit more? :shocked:
BUMMER! :gaah:

 

[va2djd]

Hi, i have hid on head and fog light without any problems
i try a lot of brand and the only one without
nany problems is KBcarstuff a sponsor
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-Digital-HID-Kits-p/xt-hid.htm